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07-21-2018, 12:01 PM | #1 |
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Broken rotor on crab distributor
I was reading another thread about some people experiencing a broken rotor when converting over to a crab style distributor setup. Well, I ordered the crab conversion kit and had that happen too on my 1948. It came with the cap,matching rotor and clips. I put the distributor together and spun it around and it seemed to turn freely enough, no binding, felt like only the points were offering any resistance. I put it on the engine, it fired once and died. After a while I decided to pull the distributor back off and yep, the rotor was broken off.
So, now I need to buy another new rotor and hope the same thing doesn't happen again,they aren't cheap. I read where I think it was Bubba that files the rotor down, but how do you know how much is correct? Doesn't anyone make a proper fitting rotor that works without breaking or having to be modified to work?
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07-21-2018, 01:14 PM | #2 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
For starters, a rotor that turns freely in the cap should never break unless it was cracked by misdirected force in putting it on. Or unless the distributor shaft bushings are completely worn out, allowing wobble.
You can buy a rotor on Ebay for $7.95 and up. Cap for $27 and up. Good luck! |
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07-21-2018, 02:35 PM | #3 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
34,
The rotor is not the problem. The problem is the bushing the rotor shaft spins in is not on the same center line as the diameter that the cap locates on....AND/OR the support bushing on the breaker plate is off center. Both these situations occur quite often. Email me at [email protected] , with a bit of common sense machine work we can get everything spinning nice and true. Charlie ny |
07-21-2018, 04:20 PM | #4 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
I set up a distributor for a friend for a Vintage stock car night ,I went down for a look and hear he was parked up after only one race ,We found out later he fitted a new cap and rotor and there was the Rotor in two pieces , So in his case it was the added parts that were at fault ,these repoped bits are not that accurate .In the Ford books they recommend to set the air gap on the rotor divers Helmet so the crab would be the same ,Just don't ask me how you do it a set of callipers maybe ,turn the cap terminals in a laith or go to Charlie. this would be a good reason why people change to electronic ,Air gap to wide = weak spark ,Ted
Last edited by FlatheadTed; 07-21-2018 at 04:50 PM. |
07-21-2018, 07:50 PM | #5 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
I received a bunch of emails on my reply to 34 so bear with me.........
The following is for any front mounted distributor I build...... After disassembly and cleaning I machine the diameter on the rotor shaft that spins in the big bronze bushing. I turn this diameter to a full cleanup to eliminate taper and out of round, needless to say this diameter is already worn under size. The old bronze bushing is removed from the housing and a fresh bushing is installed, the fresh bushing is .060 undersize on the inside diameter. Now dealing with the 'crab' dist I need to know which cap will be used. The crab cap mounts over the register diameter on the housing and the rabbit ear cap mounts on the inside register diameter. I grab the crab dist housing in a very accurate 6 jaw chuck on the appropriate register diam and bore the undersize bushing for an .0008 to .001 running fit on the machined rotor shaft. Because I trust my machine ( so far so good ) I am certain that the rotor shaft will be spinning in truth with the cap register diameter on the housing. Next The breaker plate with the outboard support bushing is chucked up in the 6 jaw chuck and I indicate the bushing for runout. Runout here is usually .010 to .020. In many cases I can true up this bushing using a small brass drift and a small hammer thunking it in to .002 or less. Sometimes of course more serious lathe work is required My thinking is it is no use to install a new standard size bushing and expect to accomplish anything when the rotor shaft is worn .007 or .008. I have yet to see a used housing where the cap register diameter was even close in concentricity to the bushing diameter. I took Bubba's advice a longtime ago and use only NAPA Echlin ignition goods. Charlie ny |
07-22-2018, 03:42 AM | #6 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
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Mart. |
07-22-2018, 04:09 AM | #7 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
I also find a lot of the caps have the terminals not centred ,I prefer to chuck them up in a four jaw and true them up as well as filing the Rotors
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07-22-2018, 04:51 AM | #8 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
^^ What do you use as a reference surface to true them up, Ted? The mating diameter to the distributor body?
Mart. |
07-22-2018, 10:59 AM | #9 | |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
Quote:
I have tested these using a lab scope checking for rotor cap secondary voltage. A good coil will give you approx 20,000 volts , a good idling flathead will use approx 5,000 volts, opening up the rotor gap may use a couple hundred more volts, not noticed when you have 15000 reserve volts...even hard to see the increase on the scope.. Actually in the old days we used to open the coil wire gap to start a flooded engine and the snake oil folks sold a gap for every wire at the state fairs etc to make the engine run better ...... |
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07-22-2018, 11:55 AM | #10 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
Jim,
I guess I'm fortunate , I'm a one man operation and do all machining in house, nothing is farmed out. In my relatively little world it seems to pay off in the long run to operate the way I do. When possible I'll do 15 or 20 of any components that I build....fuel pumps, carbs, distributors yah da yah da..... to capitalize on the economy scale. I thank Jim Bubba Linder most everyday for his assistance when I'm 'up against it'. Charlie ny |
07-22-2018, 01:20 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
Quote:
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07-22-2018, 03:59 PM | #12 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
Its not something I do every day ,you run the risk of cracking the cap ,your reference is the locating ridge were the clips go .I do quiet a few distributors most I hand work with a dermal like Bubba does ,If The bushes are worm they show a fluctuating needle on the dwell meter ,I have been doing a few electronic refits lately, that solves it .Ted
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07-22-2018, 04:10 PM | #13 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
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07-22-2018, 04:18 PM | #14 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
A lot of people forget to have a gasket between cap and body. Sometimes it is just that simple.
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07-22-2018, 04:23 PM | #15 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
Stick with the rabbit ear one with nice bail clip other crab stuff is cheap,cap flew off twice on me.
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07-22-2018, 07:23 PM | #16 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
I am referring to the bush ,with electronic is not as critical ,with points a few thou play shows up on the dwell meter, but you yes you still need to clearance the rotor ,
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07-23-2018, 01:10 PM | #17 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
I believe Charlie is right about the bushings. I didn't think to check them out very good. With the distributor all assembled, it seemed to be tight enough, but when I took it back apart and checked each single bushing on the shaft,they seemed to be too loose. I don't understand.....its only 70 years old....☺
So I ordered a set of bushings. I am determined to get this thing running without having to resort to sending it off to be machined. I think they were designed to be fixed in someones back yard. I noticed there are oil grooves behind the bushing in the housing. What kind of lubricant is advised to go there?
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07-25-2018, 08:12 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
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07-25-2018, 09:30 PM | #19 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
I believe we are fortunate to have four of the best talking about distributors. Many years of experience shared here.
Bruce
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07-26-2018, 04:16 AM | #20 |
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Re: Broken rotor on crab distributor
If I get a bunch of distributors to do I roller out in the sun and go for it, nothing like checking things at high RPM . Ted
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