Brake rods and anti rattlers

[29Cabriolet]

Seemingly all of a sudden the E brake froze full on an I was unable to move the car. The cause turned out to be worn and out of shape anti rattlers twisted and had bound up the rods on the left rear. Needless to say I am replacing them, but also in the process, I can see most of the rods are not straight so I may as well replace them all too.

With the anti rattlers badly worn, they are not properly seated against the bulge/knot in the rod to exert pressure to do its job. With worn springs and bent rods it's hard to tell how to correctly re-install. Les Andrews handbook shows a small illustration but I was hoping someone may have a better diagram or better still some pictures.

Of course any and all hints or suggestions on how to best do the task will be welcome!!
Thanks!

[Patrick L.]

Unless I'm missing something, I just install them to exert the most pressure on the rods. Which means front side of bracket on front and rear on rear.
I've found they usually have to be re-bent and sometimes I double them up or just use the '31 wire springs.

[ericr]

we gabbed a little about this situation a couple of weeks ago. Those of us that did restorations in the '70s and '80s found that the flat type repros were junk, though apparently that has been remedied. I just decided to cast authenticity to the wind and went with the later type.

BTW from comments received it is unclear to me whether the springs are for anti-rattling or brake rod return. It's hard for me to see a brake rod attached at both ends and under some degree of tension can rattle.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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The long thin brake rods will vibrate in rhythm to the engine vibrations, much like a tuning fork. The anti-rattlers help return the brakes and stop the vibrations. I also have to bend the repro springs for good return pressure and to hold the bump in the cup.