retard spark lever challenge

[JoeMarine]

Developed a first time challenge yesterday...after driving my model A for four years. While driving in second gear I pulled the retard lever down by about one inch and the car stalled. Could not get it started...today it started up first turn...am I missing something? Is the car sending me a "I need to change plugs...points...tune" message...etc. Any help would be appreciated

[Dick Steinkamp]

I think it is sending you the message "the wire between the lower and upper plate is shorting out".

[Boston Bruce]

My first thought is there is a short in your distributor. Are you using the original type points and lower wire? I'd look at that first.

[JoeMarine]

That's a new one to me...can you elaborate?

[JoeMarine]

I put in a new distributor with points over a year ago...no issues. Not sure what you mean by lower wire...

[Terry, NJ]

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I think Dick S' reply is probably close. I think it was less than a year ago I put a new wire under the upper plate and it's shorting out. When I figured out what I might be, I removed the advance rod and moved it as far left, then right as it would go. This repositioned the wire under the plate and the car started again. New wire, go figure! This can be diagnosed with a clip lead. Put a matchbook cover ( or similar insulator) between the points. The upper point should be hot with the key on. Clip the cliplead on it and try sparking it on a head nut. No spark and it's shorting out. If it's not shorted, it will make a modest spark and the car will start (Probably)
Terry

[Tom Endy]

Originally Posted by JoeMarine

That's a new one to me...can you elaborate?

Under the top plate of the distributor there is a lower plate. They are electrically connected together by a fine multi-strand insulated wire. One end is connected to the buss bar where the pop-out cable connects. The other end is connected to the stud that is part of the moveable points. Each time the spark advance handle is moved, the wire moves. It is important that the wire be a correct multi-strand, it also has to be routed under the top plate correctly. After the lug is attached to the points it must be bent straight up so that as the plate rotates with the spark advance it does not touch the casting and short out.

After a distributor is assembled, but not installed it should be checked with an ohm meter. Put a business card between the points. Put one lead on the arm of the points, the other lead anywhere on the casting. Rotate the spark advance through its range to see if there is a short.

Tom Endy

[1955cj5]

Here are some pictures...

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...5&postcount=32

And another thread on the subject..

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...82#post1478782

[Smooth_One]

I already had trouble with mine when I put in a modern style upper and lower plate.
Put the old stuff right back on with a new connection wire (remember to make sure it's bent away from anything it can make contact with) all is good now!

[JoeMarine]

Thanks guys...I will give it a chance...

[Growley bear]

There is a very high quality wire called noodle wire available at some Radio Control Model stores.
It is a very flexible multi strand wire with a silicone jacket. Some of the lower wires are hard and cheap and break which will cause intermittent contact. There is some soldering and fitting involved. This has been a very good fix on my distributors.