Electrical issue

[JoeMarine]

Okay, hope everyone is following my challenges. I took the green wire from the RH tail light and plugged it in the black cross over wire. And I took the black wire from the RH tail light and plugged it in the green cross over wire. I do have "metal on metal" contact after removing the pads. I now have operational top lights together and bottom lights on the taillights together. Problem: when I step on the brake pedal, the brake lights go out????

[JoeMarine]

Okay, I hope I'm not confusing anyone trying to help me. I took the RH tail light green wire and plugged it into the black crossover wire. I then took the RH tail light black wire and plugged it into the green crossover wire and now I have both upper brake lights working and corresponding lower lights working. The problem now remains when I step on the brake pedal, the brake lights go out. I do have metal on metal contact after removing the pads.

[Patrick L.]

As everyone said you need good grounds. I wouldn't worry about wire colors, I'd worry about the power in those wires. Make sure those wires have power where they should have power.
Also it sure seems like the light switch has some issues.
7:00 - park lights
6:00 - off
5:00 - low beams, tail lights
4:00 - high beams, tail lights

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by JoeMarine

Okay, I hope I'm not confusing anyone trying to help me. I took the RH tail light green wire and plugged it into the black crossover wire. I then took the RH tail light black wire and plugged it into the green crossover wire and now I have both upper brake lights working and corresponding lower lights working. The problem now remains when I step on the brake pedal, the brake lights go out. I do have metal on metal contact after removing the pads.

You also seem to have a brake light problem. Power should feed the brake switch, but, not go through the switch until the pedal is depressed. Then power should feed through the switch to the rear.
The brake lights should not normally be on as they appear to be. That is if I'm understanding what happening.
You're not using turn signals are you ? If you are we need to know what switch you're trying to use.

[JoeMarine]

Pat
Are you saying my light position should indicate as follows:
7:00 - park lights
6:00 - off
5:00 - low beams, tail lights
4:00 - high beams, tail lights
If so, I'm out of sorts.
You are understanding exactly what I have.
And no, I'm not using turn signals
Double Ugh!

[msmaron]

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YES…that is how they work Joe….now go out there and get er done!!!!

[JoeMarine]

I'm a trying!!!!

[Mitch//pa]

use a simple test light for your power tests

[Ed H.]

Originally Posted by Jim/TX/GA

Bad ground(s).

+1 Bad ground will make a priest pick up a brown bottle.

[Patrick L.]

Yep, grounds can be a real PITA at times. Sometimes it easier just to run a ground wire.
Like Mitch said, a plain ole test light light works just fine. If you have voltage/power to the tail light wire [ when the switch is on] then you're good that far. Make sure the power then goes the socket contact. You can also try a jumper wire from the socket to a good ground to see if that makes a difference. If it does then you have a poor ground. A complete circuit just means power needs to get to whatever you want, then it also has to get back to the battery somehow.

[Quigley1930]

Disconnect the right tail/stop light. If the left works correctly then you have a problem from there to the right. If the left acts up disconnect one wire and see what happens. Just go backwards, the problem will show up. as stated a simple test light on the unhooked wires will tell you whether it's in the wires or lamps. Clear as mud-right?

Sewall Tyler

[JoeMarine]

Thanks everyone . . . still trying to make heads and tails of this . . . and I may just take up that "brown"bottle. Anyone live close to Stafford Virginia!!!

[P.S.]

Guys- His problem is NOT bad grounds. His problem is a miswired light switch.

Joe- The light switch is located at the end of the steering column. Assuming you have disconnected the battery, pull the little metal wire strap that goes under the cover (it's called the "bail") and the switch should come apart easily. Each wire contact in there can come out of the wafer that holds it all in place, and they can be moved around.

Using your ohm meter, find the connections that go to headlights (low and high) and tail lights and brake lights. Insert into the proper order, reassemble the switch, and your problems will be solved.

[Patrick L.]

Joe, I don't think I'd worry about the light switch at this point. Get the tail lights and brake lights working. Then work on the headlight switch.

[Roadster62]

I don't know enough to keep count, but just how many different "cures" have been thrown out so far? Who was the guy that stated the electrical stuff was "EASY"? Bob, busy block sanding primer.

[Mike V. Florida]

This may help;

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Joe, I don't think I'd worry about the light switch at this point. Get the tail lights and brake lights working. Then work on the headlight switch.

But all the lights go through the switch, not just the headlights. And the symtoms Joe mentioned all point to the switch.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by P.S.

But all the lights go through the switch, not just the headlights. And the symtoms Joe mentioned all point to the switch.

joe agree use the wiring diagram that mike posted to ck the position of the wires at the switch. its plain and simple
you can also touch a jumper wire to each pigtail from the negative post of battery and individually prove out each circuit before you put the switch back together...

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by P.S.

But all the lights go through the switch, not just the headlights. And the symtoms Joe mentioned all point to the switch.

True. All I'm saying is that it seems as though he has more than one issue. Its just me, but, I'd get the tail lights and stop lights working correctly then move things around in the switch. Its nice that Mike posted a wiring diagram which should be a help to him. I've just learned years ago to go by what a test light/VOM tells me rather than rely on colors.

[Smurkey]

I think your contact plate in the switch is off 30 degrees. The spider is not seated in the correct slots in the center of the plate. Is the bail tough to put on?

Try this:

Pull off the switch and pull it apart. Start with the contacts on the movable plate in the non-metallic dimples in the stationary plate; this is "off". Now set the lever position at 6:00 position; this is also "off". Don't move anything and put the whole switch assembly back on the steering column and flip the bail.

The fact the parking lights don't ever work leads me to believe the contacts never touch that portion of the switch. Also check the wires on the cutout...I'm tellin' ya had the same type of light gremlins and it turned out to be that...Just don't ask me how...