The Ford Barn

JoeMarine · 09-09-2013, 09:43 AM

Looking for any guidance on re-wiring my Model A.
I don't have cowling lights and won't "go there" for a couple years.
I only have one rear light and don't plan to add a second one for sometime, it at all.
I don't have a dome light and probably won't put one in.
I am buying all the "bundles" offered by MAC to make it happen.
I just don't trust what I see on the vehicle now.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I am going to also install an electrical disconnect switch.
Semper Fidelis and thanks in advance.
Joe Marine

stallerl · 09-09-2013, 10:01 AM

Re-wiring my '29 Tudor was the easiest project on my car so far! I bought the necessary wires from Brattons and just followed a schematic that I printed from this chat site. I also added a disconnect switch that I mounted just under the drivers seat. I took my time wiring the car but could have probably done it in under a couple of hours. I can't stress how easy it is to do. Don't fret about it, at all. Study a schematic, lay out the wiring on the garage floor, identify each end and mark them with a small piece of tape and where they are to go. Then just start routing the wires to where they have to go. Once that's done start connecting them one by one. Once you start you'll see how easy it is. Good luck and have fun!

Mike V. Florida · 09-09-2013, 10:08 AM

Seems like you have it all planned out. Buy the harnesses and install.

w.michael · 09-09-2013, 10:13 AM

I suggest you clean all the contact points with a small brass "toothbrush" and use dielectric grease on all the contacts. Dielectric grease comes in a small tube at local parts houses. One tube will last several lifetimes.

jrelliott · 09-09-2013, 10:49 AM

When you order the harness, make sure you specify you want the one for cowl lights as the wire will be there for the later attachment. Second tail light is just a plug in to the existing tail light wire splitting the connection. Check all the ground paths to tail lights, head lights and horn as these are just as important as the wiring itself. Battery ground strap connection is also very important to have good contact. If you have an ohm meter all readings for ground path from tail lights, headlights and horn when the horn button is pushed should be zero or as close as possible. Make these readings with the battery out of the circuit either through disconnect switch or pulling the ground strap off the battery or can fry the ohm meter.

CarlG · 09-09-2013, 10:57 AM

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Re-wiring a Model A is certainly not rocket science. I did my first one when I was 15 back in the mid 50's from parts I ordered from JC Whitney.

IMHO, If I were to do one today, all my wiring would come from Sacramento Vintage. Their wire shop is second to none. Everything I have gotten from them so far has been exact in every detail.

Mike V. Florida · 09-09-2013, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarlG

Re-wiring a Model A is certainly not rocket science. I did my first one when I was 15 back in the mid 50's from parts I ordered from JC Whitney.

IMHO, If I were to do one today, all my wiring would come from Sacramento Vintage. Their wire shop is second to none. Everything I have gotten from them so far has been exact in every detail.

The wiring colors and "flags" are not exact when compared to original.

roccaas · 09-09-2013, 11:08 AM

I did mine a few years back.

It helped to lay the harness out in the sun for a while just before I installed it. The cloth covered wires are not as stiff as plastic coated wires, and we don't have many tight turns or fittings, but a more pliable harness is easier to work with.

Keep your hands clean, especially when you are near grease fittings or under hood. It's amazing how quickly the "yellow with black tracer" becomes muddy colored when your hands are dirty/greasy.

Are you wiring in turn signals? That takes some time.

I found the replacement Bakelite fitting at the bottom of the steering column to be not quite the right fit into the metal covers, so I reused the one already on the car. Not a big deal as I was installing relays on the lights and horn and had to take the wires off the the switch anyway.

CarlG · 09-09-2013, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

The wiring colors and "flags" are not exact when compared to original.

If so, I stand corrected. The only harness I have worked with that I knew to be original, I managed to burn up (when I was 15) hence my having to re-wire my AA280A.

JoeMarine · 09-09-2013, 11:28 AM

Thanks everyone.
I'm pretty excited to get this project going. I'm learning a heck of a lot from this car. . . and loving it!
ROCCAAS, I don't plan to put in turn signals. . .I'll let my hands to the work . . . let's hope other drivers understand the 'hand' language.
I do have one other question. It appears the previous owner had a jury-rigged wire for the horn. I guess the horn on the steering wheel didn't work so he added a button under the column with external wiring. I'm going to remove that wiring because the horn doesn't work anyway. Is there any secrets to rewiring the original horn button to horn on the steering wheel?

Brentwood Bob · 09-09-2013, 11:48 AM

separate project to repair the horn button. You will be removing the steering column for that job. Special care when you get to hooking up the headlights to the harness.
Do you have functioning lights now? You havent mentioned this so I am guessing that you will need to learn what condition the lights are in.
Bob

JoeMarine · 09-09-2013, 12:24 PM

My apologies, yes, the head lights do work. . .the tail light does not.
Light on my instrument panel works also.
The horn doesn't work either . . .wires are just hanging there on that project.

Brentwood Bob · 09-09-2013, 03:47 PM

tail lite rewire is straight forward. I have found that a round wire brish found at welding supply outlets will cleen the bronze socket for good electrical contact when you rewire it. ground is important. add an auxilary ground cable from the ground strap over to the transmission. Bob

ctvpa · 09-09-2013, 04:01 PM

Like you I kept mine to have the original single brake light. However you will be driving next to 16 year olds who are texting, putting milk in their café-lotta-crappa, etc.
Consider a second brake light and a harness that has directionals. There is a nice one that has a small hidden switch rather than the big aluminum ones. Mine flashes my headlight in front and taillight. I changed mine after about 10 near misses. People passing on the left to hit the brakes and make a right turn.
You can always add cowl lights to any harness in the future, not an issue.

09-09-2013, 09:43 AM	#1
JoeMarine Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Stafford, VA Posts: 115	Re-wiring Model A Looking for any guidance on re-wiring my Model A. I don't have cowling lights and won't "go there" for a couple years. I only have one rear light and don't plan to add a second one for sometime, it at all. I don't have a dome light and probably won't put one in. I am buying all the "bundles" offered by MAC to make it happen. I just don't trust what I see on the vehicle now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am going to also install an electrical disconnect switch. Semper Fidelis and thanks in advance. Joe Marine

09-09-2013, 10:01 AM	#2
stallerl Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Huntington Beach CA Posts: 157	Re: Re-wiring Model A Re-wiring my '29 Tudor was the easiest project on my car so far! I bought the necessary wires from Brattons and just followed a schematic that I printed from this chat site. I also added a disconnect switch that I mounted just under the drivers seat. I took my time wiring the car but could have probably done it in under a couple of hours. I can't stress how easy it is to do. Don't fret about it, at all. Study a schematic, lay out the wiring on the garage floor, identify each end and mark them with a small piece of tape and where they are to go. Then just start routing the wires to where they have to go. Once that's done start connecting them one by one. Once you start you'll see how easy it is. Good luck and have fun!

09-09-2013, 10:08 AM	#3
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: Re-wiring Model A Seems like you have it all planned out. Buy the harnesses and install. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

09-09-2013, 10:13 AM	#4
w.michael Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 418	Re: Re-wiring Model A I suggest you clean all the contact points with a small brass "toothbrush" and use dielectric grease on all the contacts. Dielectric grease comes in a small tube at local parts houses. One tube will last several lifetimes.

09-09-2013, 10:49 AM	#5
jrelliott Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pine, AZ Posts: 794	Re: Re-wiring Model A When you order the harness, make sure you specify you want the one for cowl lights as the wire will be there for the later attachment. Second tail light is just a plug in to the existing tail light wire splitting the connection. Check all the ground paths to tail lights, head lights and horn as these are just as important as the wiring itself. Battery ground strap connection is also very important to have good contact. If you have an ohm meter all readings for ground path from tail lights, headlights and horn when the horn button is pushed should be zero or as close as possible. Make these readings with the battery out of the circuit either through disconnect switch or pulling the ground strap off the battery or can fry the ohm meter.

09-09-2013, 10:57 AM	#6
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,115	Re: Re-wiring Model A Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Re-wiring a Model A is certainly not rocket science. I did my first one when I was 15 back in the mid 50's from parts I ordered from JC Whitney. IMHO, If I were to do one today, all my wiring would come from Sacramento Vintage. Their wire shop is second to none. Everything I have gotten from them so far has been exact in every detail. __________________ Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club

09-09-2013, 11:08 AM	#8
roccaas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Savannah, GA Posts: 1,300	Re: Re-wiring Model A I did mine a few years back. It helped to lay the harness out in the sun for a while just before I installed it. The cloth covered wires are not as stiff as plastic coated wires, and we don't have many tight turns or fittings, but a more pliable harness is easier to work with. Keep your hands clean, especially when you are near grease fittings or under hood. It's amazing how quickly the "yellow with black tracer" becomes muddy colored when your hands are dirty/greasy. Are you wiring in turn signals? That takes some time. I found the replacement Bakelite fitting at the bottom of the steering column to be not quite the right fit into the metal covers, so I reused the one already on the car. Not a big deal as I was installing relays on the lights and horn and had to take the wires off the the switch anyway. __________________ 20 years ago we had Johnny Cash, Steve Jobs, and Bob Hope. Now we have no Cash, no Jobs, and no Hope...please don't let Kevin Bacon die!

09-09-2013, 11:28 AM	#10
JoeMarine Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Stafford, VA Posts: 115	Re: Re-wiring Model A Thanks everyone. I'm pretty excited to get this project going. I'm learning a heck of a lot from this car. . . and loving it! ROCCAAS, I don't plan to put in turn signals. . .I'll let my hands to the work . . . let's hope other drivers understand the 'hand' language. I do have one other question. It appears the previous owner had a jury-rigged wire for the horn. I guess the horn on the steering wheel didn't work so he added a button under the column with external wiring. I'm going to remove that wiring because the horn doesn't work anyway. Is there any secrets to rewiring the original horn button to horn on the steering wheel?

09-09-2013, 11:48 AM	#11
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,241	Re: Re-wiring Model A separate project to repair the horn button. You will be removing the steering column for that job. Special care when you get to hooking up the headlights to the harness. Do you have functioning lights now? You havent mentioned this so I am guessing that you will need to learn what condition the lights are in. Bob

09-09-2013, 12:24 PM	#12
JoeMarine Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Stafford, VA Posts: 115	Re: Re-wiring Model A My apologies, yes, the head lights do work. . .the tail light does not. Light on my instrument panel works also. The horn doesn't work either . . .wires are just hanging there on that project.

09-09-2013, 03:47 PM	#13
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,241	Re: Re-wiring Model A tail lite rewire is straight forward. I have found that a round wire brish found at welding supply outlets will cleen the bronze socket for good electrical contact when you rewire it. ground is important. add an auxilary ground cable from the ground strap over to the transmission. Bob

09-09-2013, 04:01 PM	#14
ctvpa Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 479	Re: Re-wiring Model A Like you I kept mine to have the original single brake light. However you will be driving next to 16 year olds who are texting, putting milk in their café-lotta-crappa, etc. Consider a second brake light and a harness that has directionals. There is a nice one that has a small hidden switch rather than the big aluminum ones. Mine flashes my headlight in front and taillight. I changed mine after about 10 near misses. People passing on the left to hit the brakes and make a right turn. You can always add cowl lights to any harness in the future, not an issue.