Cracked Block

[Lenny Bruce]

Hey guys sadly I came across a little seeping in the front of the motor the other day. As I looked closer I noticed someone put a band aid on an issue on the block just under the front of the head facing the fan. I cleaned it off and see some pretty good sized pitting and small holes. The engine oil is clean as a whistle so it’s not leaking internally. If I rough things up would JB weld be the way to go?
I’m just horrified that the engine will need to be replaced. Any suggestions? Thanks!

[ronn]

I would give it a shot. nothing to lose. you want to V it out with a dremel. I would then buy the best epoxy out there. some are much stronger then others and JB also has diff grades.


there is a u tube video where a guy tries out the many diff epoxies and the diff in strength is astounding.

[CT Jack]

JB Weld products are basically epoxies with different fillers. If you elect to go the epoxy route I would use a clear non-filled epoxy that has a slow cure rate (24hrs @ room temperature). Surface preparation is very important. It must be super clean for proper bonding. Using epoxy might work but only if the crack is small and does not see temperature above 200 degrees F.
Cast iron cannot be welded so the best option of all would be to use the mechanical stitching technique. This method works well for most block cracks within the water jacket areas. We have used this method on many antique engines with good success. The final test of success is to pressurized the block for leaks. The stitching technique involves installing a series of small metal plugs along the crack line. The plugs are closely positioned to one another and individually threaded into the block which mechanically seals and locks the crack. This mechanical seal can withstand the thermal changes encountered during engine operation.

[ronn]

Jack, most epoxies are rated at 500 degrees plus.

[stevests]

Take a look into Belzona epoxy - expensive but supposedly endorsed by Caterpillar.

[Bob Bidonde]

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Lenny,
Post some pictures of the leaks and I will put my engineering hat on and post a durable fix you should be able to do.

[oldspert]

Originally Posted by CT Jack

Cast iron cannot be welded

Wrong, cast iron can be welded with success if the welder is a professional and knows the proper procedure using the correct filler.

[Richard Knight]

For an in car repair high strength high temperature JB WELD is one if your better options as is the epoxy approved for caterpillar. As has also been mentioned cleanliness is everything for a lasting repair. A little work with a Drexel tool to roughen the area and boutique the crack. It has to be absolutely clean and dry. Out of the car there are more options. It can be welded but that often leads to other cracking. It could be pinned. I soldered up so many water jacket cracks it isn't funny. Proper tinning compound is the secrete to that.

[nkaminar]

A temporary fix is the epoxy route. Temporary in terms of years. Another route is to take the engine out of the car and apart and weld it up. I have used nickle rod in the past but was recently brought up to the present technology. See https://www.muggyweld.com/product/77...n-welding-rod/ There is a procedure to be followed to assure success.

[Pete]

[QUOTE=CT Jack;2244424]
Cast iron cannot be welded./QUOTE]

Surely you jest.

[ronn]

dont call me Shirley!

[Lenny Bruce]

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[Lenny Bruce]

Here are some pictures best I can get. Actually a little worse than I thought. Ugh man this is discouraging. The car runs so good!

[Phil Brown]

Nothing to lose, fill it up with epoxy and see how it goes

[Pete]

Stitching is the best permanent method. It can be done in the car without disassembling any of the engine.
The quality of a modern welding repair will be equal to stitching but will involve engine tear down and some cylinder honing to straighten cylinder afterward.

[Lenny Bruce]

Yes it’s all I can do really at this point. If the motor comes out for any reason it will to be to replace it.

[Lenny Bruce]

Are their any videos on stitching?

[Lenny Bruce]

That one hole is pretty good size not sure it would be a good idea to tap it?

[rotorwrench]

That's right in the bottom of the water jacket with the core seam involvement. When the block was cast, the outer core mold must have had a seem line there. It's hard to say if it corroded through or it may have had problems during the pouring of the block. It could be brazed but as was already mentioned, it should be torn down. Oven fusion welding with cast iron filler could be done as well but it would be expensive.

Iron-Tite cast iron tapered plugs and other brand name plugs are available in all sorts ot sizes. A hole is drilled and their special tap is used to thread the hole. The plug is installed and cut off to dress it to the contour of the patch surface. Another hole overlapping the first is then drilled & plugged as before. It takes time to fill the void but it has been done this way for many years with good results.

[Lenny Bruce]

Wow I guess I have a decision to make…. It’s heart breaking actually…