EAB cam with 8BA heads?

[3twinridges]

Has anyone run this combo and know if I would have valve clearance issues?

JB

[Ol' Ron]

This works just fine, but why would you want to do it?

[3twinridges]

Because it's what I have, any recommendations?

[Ol' Ron]

Use EAB heads, more compression.

[Ross F-1]

If the heads are shaved to give the ideal 0.050" clearance over the piston, is there really any difference between EAB's and 8BA's?

[3twinridges]

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Thank you Ron

My goal with this engine build is to have the most powerful V8 and it still look stock on the outside. It is going into an F1 and I am keeping the stock exhaust and stock Holley 94, so my cam options are a little limited. I do have a 4" Merc crank I am putting in it.

I have found both a NOS EAB cam and a NOS 1CM cam, if you had to choose between the two, which would you choose.

Anything else that I could do to improve things without taking away from the stock look, is there a difference in the EAB truck carb and the 7RT truck carb?

JB

[JSeery]

Might want to read JWLs book on the topic.

[flatheadmurre]

Hope you realise that when you start changing stroke adding cam and compression you need to adress the distributor to if you want to get the most out of it.
1CM is basicly stock duration with a higher lift.
EAB is a bit less lift but more duration.
8CM is highest lift and a bit more duration then stock.

[Ol' Ron]

The combustion chamber is a very complicated bit of engineering. The Factory has designed it to preform as best, under the various driving conditions it will see during it's operational life. That was over 60 years ago and allot has changed since then. First and foremost is our understanding of the combustion process. WE can take advantage of this by increasing the CR (Better gas), Tighter piston to head clearance( Quench area). And better timing curves. By increasing displacement you increase CR, By milling the heads you increase the Quench area, and by going to a modern distributor with the proper timing curves to thak full advantaged of these modifications. You can thank all the putzers for this information. Le4arning all this it important, because it affects the quality of the end product. You might consider an AF meter as well to determing the carb settings. No reason why these engines can't give good gas mileage as well and power.

[40 Deluxe]

Get a 2 bbl. carb from a '55-'56 272 or 292. It looks just like an 8BA but has larger throttle bore and venturii. Bore out your stock intake to match.

[Ol' Ron]

Not sure you can bore the stock intake that far, might have to use a merc intake.

[40cpe]

What is the throttle bore on the 272/292 94 style carburetor? I have one that says Holly 2100 on the bowl section and has the spark control valve in the base. It has 1 1/4" bores like a 94.

[40 Deluxe]

They have the venturi size (1 1/16") cast into the main body. Don't remember throttle bore size but believe it is bigger than a 94.

[Wmurphy@whmcontractin]

Hey guys I'm trying to do the same thing. I have a 51' 1BA block bored .060" over with a 4" crank and an Isky 3/4 cam. I have 8rt heads milled to .050" clearance and a 8rt carb. I want to keep it stock looking but I have good power up to 3000 rpm' where it levels off. I'm thinking I going to have to change the exhaust. I have a set of Fenton cast iron headers but I was hoping not to do something so obvious. Any ideas ?

[JSeery]

Exhaust manifolds on a mild flathead provide almost no difference in engine performance, use the stock ones if your interested in stock appearance. JWL ran dyno test on different exhaust configurations, check it out.

[Wmurphy@whmcontractin]

Thanks, everyone talks about headers as the holy grail. It would make my day if I can keep my manifolds and maybe just increase the diameter of the exhaust a little. I love the feel of driving a truck that has the feel of the 50's. I had 3 cylinders with low compression and poor power so I thought the internal changes would make it more drivable. Maybe I didn't need it but after rebuilding the motor and trains for 2 years I didn't want to be disappointed.
Thanks for the advise and I'll look into jwl.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by Wmurphy@whmcontractin

I have good power up to 3000 rpm' where it levels off. Any ideas ?

What is your distributor advance doing?

[Wmurphy@whmcontractin]

I've tried idle settings from 2 degrees to 14 degrees and it seems to run best at about 4. I don't really know what the advance is

[Wmurphy@whmcontractin]

Do you think I should relocate the vacuum source from the original port and install on a manifold source of vacuum?

[john in illinois]

WM, How to buy JWL's book.

http://www.flatheadv8.org/jwl.htm

John