292 rod bolts

[Ronfox69]

Anyone have a set of 292 rod bolts they would sell
It is for a 1955 mercury with EBU rods
I am located in sw pa
. Thanks Ron Fox

[KULTULZ]

Maybe contact http://www.ford-y-block.com/ for a fresh set.

[Ronfox69]

Got on his website and says arp rod bolts not available
.I would buy some good used ones if anyone has some for sale.

[Gene F]

Try Eggie Machine in Texas.

[55blacktie]

Ron, you don't want to use used rod bolts. When they are torqued, they stretch. One of the ways of checking that they've been properly torqued is by measuring them. Others might say to go ahead and use them, but are you willing to take the risk? I'm not.

[fordor41]

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were torque to yield bolts even used in 1955? I doubt it. I've rebuilt probably 10 60-70's ford engines and have never replaced bolts because they had been torqued and have never had one break or any other problem. TTY bolts can be identified by reduced shank between the threads and the head.

[55blacktie]

Whether torque-to-yield or not, I still wouldn't use 68-year-old rod bolts. Before going that route, and risk spinning a bearing/throwing a rod, I would buy a new set of rods.

I think Ron has dealt with John Mummert (ford-y-block.com) and is probably aware that he does have H-beam rods that include new fasteners. They aren't cheap at about $500 for a set, but if built right, he should have considerably more invested in his engine than that. Sometimes you either pay now or pay later.

Try contacting either Tim McMaster or Ted Eaton, either of whom might have a more affordable (and safer) solution than reusing old rod bolts.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 55blacktie

Whether torque-to-yield or not, I still wouldn't use 68-year-old rod bolts. Before going that route, and risk spinning a bearing/throwing a rod, I would buy a new set of rods.

There is no 'TORQUE-TO-YIELD' on a rod bolt. The proper way to reach correct torque/clearances is with a 'STRETCH GAUGE'.

You are correct in that using used rod bolts is like a crap-shoot (IMO).

[Ronfox69]

I appreciate all the feedback. The only bolt manufacturer I have found is arp
. They call for a 6005 bolt that doesn't work for me. The threads on the new bolt are too short. Does anyone know of another bolt manufacturer? That's why I have been looking for used
Tim McMaster has a set of used rods he would sell me. Might end up going that route. I assume a machine shop would have to change out the pistons?

[Boggus Deal]

May seem like a simple question but Have you checked with local machine shops? Maybe one that’s been around awhile?

[KULTULZ]

FORD CATALOGING calls for C1AE 6214-A - 3/8in - 24 X 2.10 which converts to 2 3/32in L (I believe).

ARP 154-6005 calls for their L as 2 7/32in (EBU) (again, I believe). If anything they are longer.

Why not call ARP TECH and talk with them maybe?

FORD also cataloged the same rod bolt for the early FE.

***

EDIT -

1955-56 MERC CHASSIS CATALOG - JAN 1956

Original PN - EAA 6214-B - 3/8in - 24 - 2 1/16in L

[fordor41]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

There is no 'TORQUE-TO-YIELD' on a rod bolt. The proper way to reach correct torque/clearances is with a 'STRETCH GAUGE'.

You are correct in that using used rod bolts is like a crap-shoot (IMO).

may be dumb question but only bolts I know of in an engine that can be measured after being torqued are rod bolts. how do you measure for correct torque on all the bolts that the heads are the only thing visible?

[miker98038]

More than you probably want to know about bolt torque/stretch/yield etc. More interesting reads on the site. It’s their web site, not an engineering manual, so judge accordingly

https://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php

[bobss396]

How about something like a SCAT rod? Their entry level rods would be more that good for you. If they made them for a 292...

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by fordor41

may be dumb question but only bolts I know of in an engine that can be measured after being torqued are rod bolts. how do you measure for correct torque on all the bolts that the heads are the only thing visible?

There is no dumb question other than my asking my little thumbscrew to marry me.

Other bolts (cap screws) are torqued to value or torqued to yield however the fastener supplier describes or the engine builder recommends maybe in a HP application.

EDIT -

It is not mandatory a stretch gauge be used. Only for the particular.

I wonder what TED EATON has to say about this?

[KULTULZ]

Here is one possibility. The PN I showed (C1AE - year 1961) is a later service replacement number. It may be the assembly rod bolt was longer.

The ARP bolts seem to be readily available. I wonder why John Mummert said they were not. Wish he had given an explanation.

If the rod is resized and magnafluxed, I see no reason for aftermarket unless the engine is going to be a high revving.

FORD did offer a steel crank and rods on MT.

[Patrick brophy]

I wonder how many 292 equipped Fords with rebuilt motors using the same rod bolts, crank cap bolts, etc are parked at the Saturday car shows.

[55blacktie]

It could be that it's not a matter of ARP availability, but that they don't fit. For years, ARP put the retaining clip of the oil pump drive shaft on the wrong end.

[Gene F]

https://egge.com/ Call them. And I mean pick up the telephone.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

I wonder how many 292 equipped Fords with rebuilt motors using the same rod bolts, crank cap bolts, etc are parked at the Saturday car shows.

Most if not all most likely. It depends on the chosen shop machine practices.

Maybe someone can post this thread @ y-blocksforever.com and TED can catch it and answer.