New member, new owner, 1941 pickup with driveability issues

[Terry,OH]

The BB prefix on the serial number indicates the truck came with the 4 speed from the factory.

[pistonbroke]

Hi Steve, I have and drive a 41 pickup with the same transmission. Yes it's stock. If you can't get the engine to run smooth shifting will always be a nightmare. It sounds like you need to clean out/rebuild the carb and check your fuel pressure. If you have any more question just ask. We are here for you. Tim

[504d]

Fuel pressure tester came in. 5.2psi. So, ordered a regulator to eliminate that variable. Eventually, I like to revert to original mechanical pump, but no idea it's condition, and don't want to take that on yet.

Steve

[Rodrelic]

Had a couple of old 4 speeds, heavy, straight cut gears, stinks. I didn’t use the clutch with big trucks after launch, double clutch a hassle. I couldn’t use the old trans without. Need a 3 speed, will do the same job smoothly.

[504d]

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Steve,
For sure I am not even a novice on these, but your numbers look pretty good to me as far as being similar in value. Did you have the carb open to full throttle when testing? I think that is something I forgot to do when I did my B engine.
Regards,
Chris

I just checked the throttle position. It was partially open when I ran the compression test, so I reran it on #1 with the throttle fully open. I got 125 this time, 120 last time. Doesn't seem significant to me. Not sure of the theory on this. Is it that if the throttle was closed, less air would make it into cylinder, resulting in lower compression results? Is my 5 lb diff caused by this, or just a within the margin of error?

[504d]

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Maybe a tranny swap in the future. I'll see how annoying it is once I iron out the engine issues, and get more experience driving it.

[Terry,OH]

The fuel pump on your PU is not original to the vehicle. It is a later style. It most likely can be rebuilt and the glass fuel filter can be put into service. Wix sells a paper insert filter. The original pump did not have a filter.

[504d]

Is there a reason to stick with that later pump rather than switching to an original one, other than expense?

Thanks,
Steve

[504d]

Unfortunately, I don't see one convenient to me in Wilmington, Delaware, esp. in my truck's current condition.

[Terry,OH]

If your going to drive your PU I would suggest staying with the fuel pump with the glass bowl filter. Here is the link to the posting about the paper filter:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158792
If you want it to appear original get an original. It will most likely have to be rebuilt. Originals have several unique features plus they do have a screen inside that will filter out large particles. It is usually the small particles that mess up the Carb.

[504d]

Ok. Thanks.

[504d]

FYI, I added a Holley fuel pressure regulator, and set it to 2.5psi, but I detected no improvement as a result, so I'm rebuilding the carb. I had previously noticed that my hand throttle seemed illogical, that it decreased throttle when pulled out, and the engine raced when pushed in. Imho, the hand throttle lever is upside down. Do you agree? Any idea why this was done? I've attached a before pic and two after pics. Also, please note the bends in the lever in the 2 after pics. The arm is bend back towards the body of the carb, and the tab is bend sideways. Is it supposed to look like that?

Thanks,
Steve

[504d]

Oops. Forgot the pics.

[Mart]

It might be the camera angle but that hand throttle is definitely bent and the spindle may be bent too. Have you took it off and inspected the spindle?

Mart.

[Terry,OH]

lever is bent and up side down the cap is upside down also. First photo below is throttle plates closed. Second and third with throttle plates open.Straighten lever with pliers but go easy.

[504d]

Thanks. Spindle seems ok.

Steve

[504d]

Me again. My carb rebuild didn't help.


In summary, I've replaced the gas and the electric fuel pump and filter, added a fuel pressure regulator, rebuild the carb and repaired the choke and throttle linkage, but the engine is still hard to start, runs rough, and won't idle at anything close to normal.


So, I'm thinking this isn't a fuel issue.


Earlier I did a compression check that looked fine, and checked the condition of the spark plugs (black with grey tips), which I interpreted as firing, but rich. I thought that might just be to all the cold choked running. I tried hooking my timing light up, but had trouble getting anything consistent – one problem being trouble maintaining even rpm.


So, today I took off the distributor. That's an alien beast! Its an 11-A helmet. I removed the mechanism from the housing but haven't disassembled further. First I checked the point gap. Its much smaller than the 0.014-0.016” my book says – more like 0.004-0.005”. Also, there seems a lot of axial play – the shaft moved in and out quite a bit. The rotor is stuck on the shaft. There are a few metal shavings in the housing.


So, first question is: what's normal, what's not?


Also, the books and videos show folks adjusting these distributors with special devices. Are those necessary, or can you just use a timing light and dwell meter to accomplish the same result?


Thanks,
Steve

[Bill OH]

Do you have a timing pointer established on the motor - if not you can establish a timing mark using the zip tie method or pull the right head and use the hard stop method. What you do is either place a zip tie in #l spark plug hole and turn the engine over my hand wrench until the piston comes up against the zip tie or socket on a head stud held down with a head nut and mark the crank pulley at a point next to a pointer that you have fabricated and mounted to two 3/8 tapped holes next to the right water pump, then turn the engine over the opposite direction until the piston again hits the zip tie or the socket and mark the crank pulley again opposite the pointer. Top Dead Center is midway between the two marks.
And 4 degs advance is about 1/4th inch in advance of the mark.

While you have the distributor on the bench, connect a 10 inch pig tail to the coil - condenser post and put a ball of solder on the other end of the pig tail that you can connect a dwell tach. Dwell is 36 degrees. Zip tie the wire to the spark plug wire conduit.

Or you can use a K R Wilson protractor to set dwell and timing. Your call.

What spark plugs are you using? Gap .025 if a 6 volt system?

Set your points at .015 and back the vacuum brake full out.

Your ballast resistor is under the dash- Remove all 4 nuts and clean the nuts, wire terminals and resistor terminals with either a file or fine sand paper and then put a nut on each stud followed by the resistor, wires and finally a nut on each stud - snug it up.

Go to the ignition switch and clean the contacts inside and the wire terminals and nuts.

Next, clean ALL terminals on the battery terminals including the grounds and at the solenoid.

Next to the ballast resistor you will find a circuit breaker - clean all terminals and nuts.

I have done all the forgoing to my Ford 6 volt and the results are remarkable. The rule is CLEAN AND TIGHT. Avoiding voltage drop!!!

You compression is excellent. You could try Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank - 12oz.

[504d]

Much thanks. That'll keep me out of trouble for awhile.

[Ol' Ron]

You might want to find someone more familiar with these old engines. Must be some flathads in your area. They could offer some advice and check the trans ans clutch. Not sore if the 4 spd was optional in the PU, but had a 57 with ine.
Gramps
PS Welcome to the barn