Wind Wing for 31 Roadster

[bogiediver]

@ HoarseWhisperer -

Thanks.

While our 31 started out life as a Dlx (it is believed anyway), father-in-law replaced the dlx windshield with a std windshield (for the extra height - he apparently didn't like only seeing the backside of the wiper...).

I really only need the dimensions for the std wind wings - but figure if we can locate both, someone else may benefit.

So - 7.5" wide... the basic shape is a rectangle (i.e. not a parallelogram like the 28-29).

Detailed diagrams for the 30-31 std & dlx (like Mike V. found for the 28-29) would be icing on the cake.

Thanks all for your efforts

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by HoarseWhisperer

Jul 31' Parts Book lists three different windshield wings:

A-18252-AR - 1928-29
A-18252-B - 1930-31
A-18252-C - 1931-31 (180A, 40B DLX)

No dimensions given.

Snyders has those numbers and A-61951, A-79982, and A-79988. Are the numbers that Snyders has Ford numbers or their own. The prices are different for the different part numbers so I'm assuming that the glass must be different (A-18252-A and -C are the same price).

[peters180a/170b]

Lets see , when i put my wind wings on i went to AUTO GLASS company and bought the black glue in a tube that they use in windshields.[IT GOES ON HOT] with a heat gun! 3 years and i can still hang from them... Line it up the first time or your screwed! P.S. NO ONE makes the correct glass size ...Other then sanders glass and if only they kept the correct size on file... not cheap but correct!

[HoarseWhisperer]

I have not been able to find dimensions/template for the 30/31 standard windwing glass.

You might try calling Snyders to see if they could help with that.

It appears their part# is A-18252-B for the standard roadster.

Or you could order the glass and make the acrylic from it if that's what you want. Then you would have both. Link below:

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/se...-61951&x=0&y=0

FYI: I've never had the glass slip using original (concave) clamps and chasing the screw threads for good fit.

[David Martin]

To keep my glass wind wings from coming loose I threw away the rubber pads and replaced them with double-stick carpet tape. They haven't moved in five years. Quick, easy and inexpensive. David

[bogiediver]

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Well, I guess I officially give up the quest for this information...

Apparently the Force will not reveal these specifications, and how to use a ruler has failed some.

The question was never how to keep the wind wings in/on - I've seen those other threads with all the suggestions.

The question was what is the size and shape.

Mike V. hit closest with the specifications diagram - only it was for 28-29 open cars. (Thanks again Mike - if you happen to run across the specifications diagram for the 30-31, let me know...)

Geo. H was going to measure, but ...

Synders replied with "The only information that is readily available is the height is 14 1/2" for the Std Glass" - hmmm - none on the shelf I guess.

Bratten's came back with "1928-29 and 1930-31 are both 8 inch wide, 1930-31 is 12 3/4 " tall"

14-1/2 or 12-3/4 - even the suppliers can't agree

I really thought it was going to be a simple question...

I apologize if I offended anyone with the original question or with this rant... I just find it frustrating - from a group of really great people, so willing to share their knowledge of a fun and interesting hobby, to not get this simple answer.

Rant over and I apologize again.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Are there no club members with 30-31 windwings that you could measure? I don't have any but could measure some repro's on a 31 Phaeton when I get over that way some day.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I don't have any but could measure some repro's on a 31 Phaeton when I get over that way some day.

Are repros close to original or are they just cut so they look good?

[bogiediver]

Based on the various (and conflicting) sources of information, I decided to design my own.

Took some cardboard, a protractor, some common sense and fabricated a pattern that matches the angles of my windshield to:
- the top of the door
-and-
- the underside of the soft top.
As it turns out, a parallelogram was required.

14-1/2" tall seems to work, leaves 3/4" clearance at the top and at the door. 8" wide is what I went with, based on the 28-29 width and Bratten's indication (I'm guessing their 12-3/4" height recommendation is for the shorter Dlx windshield).

Used 1-1/2" radius at each corner, which closely matches the curve where the windshield meets the dash / meets the door.

If anyone is interested in the detailed diagram, let me know. I have sent to the motorcycle windshield mfg, who will bevel the edges at 45 degrees and then highly polish the edges. For my driver car , I think this will look just fine and serve the major purpose of deflecting the wind.

If it doesn't work - I will step up to the plate and post that as well.

Thanks again to those who attempted to help.

(Off topic - Tom W - one more try to see if you got my PM and/or email regarding your EVR)

[Craig Lewis]

The windshield setting glue (referred to here by several folk)....is called Urethane.
I agree it will work the best but I would apply it with everything trial fittted and screwed in place on the car.... as once it's cured (24hrs) you won't be adjusting anything.

A new tube of urethane will cost $10xx - $20xx and you'll use 1 tablespoon on the windwings.
No matter how well you seal the remaining cartridge, it will harden and block the opening after a month AND set completely (the entire tube) a few months after opening.
Your local windshield repair shop might sell or give you an almost empty tube. Even a couple "empty" tubes (from their garbage) should have enough remaining if you cut the tube with an olfa knife.

Urethane is messy like POR15, it cures with moisture and stains skin almost immediatly.
Lacquer thinner removes it within the early cure stage (10 minutes) for those not adverse to getting solvents on their skin.
The best hand cleaner I've seen for urethane (and strong paints) is called Cupran Special.

Undoubtedly lacquer thinner will ruin the lexan or plastic wind wings so be sure to tape off the desired bond area and in the event you make a mess...experiment with mineral spirits.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Craig, what is an "OLFA knife"?

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Craig, what is an "OLFA knife"?

Brand name like Exacto.

[Craig Lewis]

Tom...I think you'll recognize an Olfa. Perhaps it's more commonly refered to as a utility knife?
I just always called it an Olfa, but then I call every adjustable wrench a Crescent....

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Craig Lewis

Tom...I think you'll recognize an Olfa. Perhaps it's more commonly refered to as a utility knife?
I just always called it an Olfa, but then I call every adjustable wrench a Crescent....

Thanks

Yes, my high school shop teacher used to correct the students for calling an "ADJUSTABLE WRENCH" a "CRESENT WRENCH".

Just like calling every locking jaw plier is a "VICE GRIP".

[1931 flamingo]

It's all about the "nomenclature".
paul in CT

[swo4rd]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Many of us have experienced what you are suggesting before and what I think most folks will tell you is they do look good in the beginning but even using Lexan tends to see them "haze" up over time where they do not look good (sparkling clear like glass).

I can also tell you that if safety glass is used, even if they do fall out there is not really much chance for danger. Often times I have seen/heard where they just fall out and land on the running board are the car is being driven down the road. If they hit the pavement, they do shatter but the safety glass plastic core does hold the shards together. What I think could be dangerous is if plate glass was used in this application.

There are several things a person can do using repro mounts that will help keep them properly secured too. One is tape off the glass with masking tape and then mount the glass marking it with a felt tip pen. Then using an Exacto knife, cut around where the mounting tabs clamp the glass and then remove that tape. Using a coarse media in the beadblaster, etch the glass on both sides. On the mounting tabs, using a rotary grinder (Dremel Tool) carefully relieve some of the area inside the tabs so the clamping surface area in just the outer edges of the clamp. Then use glass setting tape along with rear-view mirror adhesive to glue the setting rubber to the metal clamps. With the etched glass and the rubber now firmly attached, they are quite strong and will stay in place.


.

Hey Brent, I am in this process and believe yours is the one that will work...I am confounded by this black edge sealer at certain dates...1/16" deep into the laminate? hmmmmm


I also have a set that I believe are OEM but they are different from what I recieved from a seller reputed to be good saying his wws are exact copies?


On my way to "H" tomorrow and will give yo a call.


Donnieboy

[Bleedblue4life]

I used the thickest 3m emblem tape I could get. Mounted the brackets then used a sharp exacto knife to cut around it. They have not moved in years.

[old31]

Now that we are talking about it.

I was driving to a show today and heard a clunk. It's a good thing I had my side curtains up. The wind wing fell off, hit the door and was slowly slipping outside between the curtain and the door. I caught it and threw it in the trunk for another day's project.

I thought i had this issue fixed. NOT!

[34pocho]

Hi, I have a ‘31 Ford Roadster and I have been thinking about doing the exact same thing with the wind wings. I would really like to see the finished product. Thanks, Steve

[bogiediver]

Ran across this old thread I started...

Just thought I'd follow up after all this time (hmmm... a bit over 12 years...).

The pattern I developed and the wind wings made from the motorcycle windshield material worked out great. Was less expensive than the glass, lighter than the glass & held better in the clamps.

Did have to replace a piece due to a large rock hit last spring that the gouged the plastic - pretty sure it would have chipped or cracked glass as well.

No issues with the plastic material hazing, dulling or anything else prior to the rock.

Sorry to bring up such an old thread...