Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Model A (1928-31)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-22-2017, 07:49 AM   #1
Woodie1
Senior Member
 
Woodie1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 471
Default Car quits

We have a 1930 Tudor that the engine was recently rebuilt on. We have a little over 500 miles on the engine & sometimes when we come to a stop the engine quits. The only change made to the carb was a float needle because the carb was spewing gas bad at a stop. We did not have this issue before the rebuild & I'm thinking that the engine is still too tight. Any thoughts?
Woodie1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 09:46 AM   #2
Hook
Senior Member
 
Hook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Twin Cities Suburbs
Posts: 105
Default Re: Car quits

Will it start right up after it quits? Do you have to pull the choke to restart? What if you set the throttle up a notch or two so the idle is faster when stopping? I had the same problem but had multiple problems.
__________________
1930 Pickup in Prior Lake, MN
Hook is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 10-22-2017, 09:53 AM   #3
Jim/GA
Senior Member
 
Jim/GA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Young Harris, GA
Posts: 1,815
Default Re: Car quits

After replacing the carb float needle valve, did you reset the float height (fuel level) to 1"? Stalling when stopping is often times due to float (fuel) level too high (not too low, as many think).

Also check your point gap in your distributor. New engine, so I assume new points. A new cam follower wears down fairly quickly with use until the edge gets burnished. (You did grease the cam, right?) Reset the point gap and grease the cam again lightly.

The best way to see if engine is still tight is with your hand crank (key off, just turn engine over).
__________________
Jim Cannon
Former MAFCA Technical Director
"Have a Model A day!"
Jim/GA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 11:45 AM   #4
Jacksonlll
Senior Member
 
Jacksonlll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Michigan-- Member of Oakleaf of MARC
Posts: 1,686
Send a message via ICQ to Jacksonlll
Default Re: Car quits

An air leak in the intake system could cause this. The manifold, it's gasket, or the joint between the carb and the manifold.
Jacksonlll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 03:41 PM   #5
Woodie1
Senior Member
 
Woodie1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 471
Default Re: Car quits

I have been running with the idle a little faster than I would like. I haven't checked the points in the last 100 miles or so. I will have to do that. I don't think I have any gasket leaks but will check the bolts for tightness as well. Thanks for the ideas guys. Hope it settles down soon. I can turn it over with the hand crank without much trouble. It's time to retorque the head nuts as well.
Woodie1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 04:06 PM   #6
Jacksonlll
Senior Member
 
Jacksonlll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Michigan-- Member of Oakleaf of MARC
Posts: 1,686
Send a message via ICQ to Jacksonlll
Default Re: Car quits

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Your higher idle is covering up some extra air that is getting in somewhere.
Jacksonlll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 06:41 PM   #7
BILL WILLIAMSON
Senior Member
 
BILL WILLIAMSON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
Default Re: Car quits

With a Zenith, if you have GOOD brakes, it's common to stall, on a QUICK stop. The fuel sloshes & screws it up. That's why Dear Ol' Henry re-designed it.
When runnin' around in traffic, jist leave your throttle lever down a couple of notches.
Bill Screech
__________________
"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"
BILL WILLIAMSON is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2017, 02:04 PM   #8
Woodie1
Senior Member
 
Woodie1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 471
Default Re: Car quits

I retorqued the head & the manifold studs. Reset the point gap & lubed the cam. Found the manifold clamp bolts a bit loose. Tightened them. Noticed more dirt in the sediment bulb, will remove that when the manifold & muffler cool down. Did not find any leaks in the vacuum line from the firewall to the manifold. Still have to check from wiper to firewall. The engine is stiffer than first thought.
Woodie1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:59 AM.