Handy Dandy Toe In Tool

[jetrod]

I've seen a host of ways to adjust the toe in for the front tires and all seem to fall short in one way or another, (chalkline, 2x4's, chains, angle irons, etc.) The pictures show the guage I made about 30 years ago and have alligned dozens of cars and the results have been excellent. It's made of 1x4 wood and takes about 15 minutes to make. (1-pc x 6'0--2 pc x 10" and 2 pc. x 14") Assemble as in the picture--make the 10" feet project below the 6'0 crossmember so the crossmsmber is a little above the floor--the 14" risers are spaced 55"apart and the tops are 16" above the floor. Mark a center line on one riser and attach a piece of measuring tape or ruler to the other riser. Now to use it! First;Jack the front end and place on jack stands (tires 1" off ground). Next align the front tires with the centerline of the car. (I eyeball them to line up with the rear tires, but many other ways will work, just try to get them close to straight) Now slide the guage under the car and line it up to the rear of the tires--make a mark on the tire on the control side (I use tape to make it easy) and make a mark on the ruler side and remember the dimention. Now move the guage to the front of the tire, rotate the tires to bring the tape in line withthe guage, set the control end on the mark on the tape and then read the ruler end. The difference in the readings indicate the amount of toe in or toe out, and it is easy to adjust the tie rod to make the adjustment. And that's it! I'm sure I'm not the only one to use this method but I've never seen it on the FB, so I thought---oh,oh!! PS I've done this with the tires on the ground and there is no difference, so I like the jackstands.

[bdave_mcc]

Good tool! one thing I was taught a while back was to jack up the wheels and use a something steady to hold a marking device or even just something sharp that will scratch a line onto the tire(I have used an old hacksaw blade with a point cut onto it) Hold the marking tool against the tire while being held steady on a jackstand or whatever and spin the tire to mark a straight line around the circumference of the tire. Use that line to measure off of. This will help compensate for any runout you may have in the wheel or tire assembly.

[stewwolfe]

What a simple way to handle toe in measurements and adjustment. The Old Dominion model A Ford Club will be the proud owner of this jig within the next couple of weeks.

[Fred S]

Originally Posted by jetrod

I've seen a host of ways to adjust the toe in for the front tires and all seem to fall short in one way or another, (chalkline, 2x4's, chains, angle irons, etc.) The pictures show the guage I made about 30 years ago and have alligned dozens of cars and the results have been excellent. It's made of 1x4 wood and takes about 15 minutes to make. (1-pc x 6'0--2 pc x 10" and 2 pc. x 14") Assemble as in the picture--make the 10" feet project below the 6'0 crossmember so the crossmsmber is a little above the floor--the 14" risers are spaced 55"apart and the tops are 16" above the floor. Mark a center line on one riser and attach a piece of measuring tape or ruler to the other riser. Now to use it! First;Jack the front end and place on jack stands (tires 1" off ground). Next align the front tires with the centerline of the car. (I eyeball them to line up with the rear tires, but many other ways will work, just try to get them close to straight) Now slide the guage under the car and line it up to the rear of the tires--make a mark on the tire on the control side (I use tape to make it easy) and make a mark on the ruler side and remember the dimention. Now move the guage to the front of the tire, rotate the tires to bring the tape in line withthe guage, set the control end on the mark on the tape and then read the ruler end. The difference in the readings indicate the amount of toe in or toe out, and it is easy to adjust the tie rod to make the adjustment. And that's it! I'm sure I'm not the only one to use this method but I've never seen it on the FB, so I thought---oh,oh!! PS I've done this with the tires on the ground and there is no difference, so I like the jackstands.

I'm new to this, and a friend showed me marking a line on the spinning wheel method, and then we used a tape, to measure both sides. A two man operation, using the tape. This is a much simpler one man job. I think hinges could be used on the end boards, and bolts with wing nuts on the risers, allowing the whole thing to be folded up and stored flat. Thanks for sharing your invention.

[Fred K-OR]

Here is also doing the same thing with a little different construction. Did mine a year or so ago. It does work.

[hardtimes]

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Yes, there is a 'host of ways', indeed.
Just did this job on my A. A fellow barner here made a simple such measuring tool....from a spring loaded curtain rod ! Real ingenious and simple to use and to store. Worked great too.

[Fullraceflathead]

The Spring loaded Curtain Rod is still the most accurate and simple once you understand how and why it works IMO. It can even be used with slightly bent wheels.

[Mike V. Florida]

The only trouble I see is that if there is any looseness in the front end the measurement would be off when the wheels are on the ground.

[bunnyc]

jetrod: I built and used your tool on my Tudor. First reading was 9/16" toe-out! Now set to 1/16" toe -in. Thank you for posting.

[burner31]

What's that other vehicle in the picture?
Hard to tell, but looks like a coupe.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Whatever method you use, the MAIN THING is to observe the tread wear, REGULARLY!-- IF it's SMOOTH, with NO signs of SCUFFING, from the outside in, or the inside out, & drives properly, YOU'RE GOOD TO GO.
Bill W.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

The Spring loaded Curtain Rod is still the most accurate and simple once you understand how and why it works IMO. It can even be used with slightly bent wheels.

As strange as it sounds I couldn't find a spring loaded curtain rod locally so I made my own 'gauge'. I like 'making' my own tools anyway.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

As strange as it sounds I couldn't find a spring loaded curtain rod locally so I made my own 'gauge'. I like 'making' my own tools anyway.

Good thinking ! What does the measure guage look like ?

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

How high up are you measuring? The 1/16" is for 6" off the floor.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Good thinking ! What does the measure guage look like ?

The 'measure gauge' I just mark the 'plunger' and adjust to 1/16" (+/- 1/32") toe in (~6-7" off the floor as Chuck said, front and back

[Tom Wesenberg]

For the plunger on the wood rod you could use a bolt or threaded rod and nut with 16 threads per inch, then set the nut to touch the wood when on the front side, roll the car forward and adjust the tie rod to get one thread showing on the rear.

Of course when the rear is changed, the front will be also, so be sure to recheck the toe in both front and rear after making the adjustments.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Of course when the rear is changed, the front will be also, so be sure to recheck the toe in both front and rear after making the adjustments.

Good point Tom. Yes it wasn't actually as easy as I made it sound. I did have to recheck and have to readjust.

Another point Tom made is to only roll forward.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Refer to post #11.
Bill W.

[Phil Brown]

Made these up the other day, real easy to use just push up to the tire hook a tape in the cut in slot on one side and read the number on the other side. I like to use two tapes and just leave them there (one front and one in the back) as you make the adjustments
Got a set for the race cars that are made out of a bent aluminum plate that work real good too

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Phil Brown

Made these up the other day, real easy to use just push up to the tire hook a tape in the cut in slot on one side and read the number on the other side. I like to use two tapes and just leave them there (one front and one in the back) as you make the adjustments
Got a set for the race cars that are made out of a bent aluminum plate that work real good too

The problem is unless the wheels and tires are perfect with no wobble the toe in could be off. 1/8" wobble is acceptable and if each wheel has 1/8" wobble, that could throw off the measurement by a lot.

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The problem is unless the wheels and tires are perfect with no wobble the toe in could be off. 1/8" wobble is acceptable and if each wheel has 1/8" wobble, that could throw off the measurement by a lot.

No doubt the best way to align the front end would be with a modern spindle hub mounted alignment machine ,but I think that for what 95% of us do any of the above methods and tools we've used work really good Good point about bent wheels,the best two always to the front and they really need to be straight if you expect good results out of your alignment. If there not straight find some, there not that hard to find Try it yourself like above and if it doesn't work then you can take it to an alignment shop as they will be more than willing to tell you whats wrong

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Phil Brown

Made these up the other day, real easy to use just push up to the tire hook a tape in the cut in slot on one side and read the number on the other side. I like to use two tapes and just leave them there (one front and one in the back) as you make the adjustments
Got a set for the race cars that are made out of a bent aluminum plate that work real good too

I've spun my tires and the rims are true blue.
I really like this set-up and think I'll make and try it.
What the heck...can't hurt

[Blessyouboys]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Refer to post #11.
Bill W.

Why?

[harleytoprock]

According to Marco's site, if measureing on the tire tread surface@ 6" above the ground surface, the toe in spec should be 1/16" plus an additional 1/50" . 1/16 plus 1/50 converted to decimal is .0825". or just .020" bigger than 1/16" or say just a little bit bigger than 1/16".

[Anteek29]

I use the tires center mold line as a reference...more accurate than spinning the tire and using chalk or pencil.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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Originally Posted by Anteek29

I use the tires center mold line as a reference...more accurate than spinning the tire and using chalk or pencil.

One Barner just put 2 straight pins in the tread, 6" off the floor & measured it, then rolled the car & measured it again---simple & quick!----Chief always said, "The easiest way is the BEST way, IF, it does the job PROPERLY"!
Bill W.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by harleytoprock

.... 1/16 plus 1/50 converted to decimal is .0825". or just .020" bigger than 1/16" or say just a little bit bigger than 1/16".

or 1/16" +/- a RCH??

[Mitch//pa]

put away your sticks, bobby pins, sewing kits and house building material
free accurate computerized toe sets to any barner
free transport not available
COMPENSATES AUTOMATICALLY FOR WHEEL RUNOUT

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

put away your sticks, bobby pins, sewing kits and house building material
free accurate computerized toe sets to any barner
free transport not available

Mitch, you're a GOOD KID, I'm PROUD OF YOU --------I'll be there, soon as I git the pins outta' Vermins' tires & install my "SWITCH BY MITCH" ignition switch goody. Make me an appointment for June 18th-2016.
Dad W.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The problem is unless the wheels and tires are perfect with no wobble the toe in could be off. 1/8" wobble is acceptable and if each wheel has 1/8" wobble, that could throw off the measurement by a lot.

Jeeze, now don't that just throw a monkey wrench into the equation !!
Who the heck has wobble free tires AND rims on a Model A

[Fred K-OR]

Here we all go again to nowhere!

[harleytoprock]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

or 1/16" +/- a RCH??

I'll have to find a red head and ask her for a special request.