Brassworks ‘28 Show Quality vs Active Driver?

[Mabel1930]

Hello all,
I’m about to launch into replacing the incorrect radiator in my ‘28 (while I don’t do shows, being a history teacher, I’m basically running a show car). Having searched the judging standards, I can’t seem to find anything about fins/inch and am curious on people’s takes on the show quality vs active driver radiators from Brassworks. I drive almost every day so I definitely need something that can handle serious use and I would like to be as close to out of the factory as possible in terms of the car being correct to 1928, but also of course don’t want to have to worry about overheating if driving in August. If course a 10fin will run cooler than the 6fin show radiator, I just don’t know enough about them to know how much of a difference that’ll be considering the driving I do (which is a mostly flat costal area in New England though every once and while I’ll drive up towards the mountains). Anyone have experience with the two styles?
Thanks!
Mark

[bkensinger]

I replaced my original radiator with a heavy duty one because I wanted to tour. Nobody but you will know. There is little value in trying to maintain a car for fine point judging if it is not shown in this category. There is a lot of value protecting your engine from overheating.

[fuzes45]

Bought a Bergs radiator, installed a Vintage t housing with 160 degree stat


runs cooler than original that was flushed and tested professionally.


I would look int Bergs vs brassworks.


Bob f

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I'm pretty sure the biggest difference between Bergbower's radiator's and Brassworks is Gery uses original tanks and straps on the Brassworks core, and Lee's makes new tanks, straps, and the core on his radiators. For the 28/29 cores, they will pass in fine-point and will cool very well. The straps on Lee's radiators are a tad different for the discriminating eye. My advice is choose whichever you prefer and ship your shell to whomever you have build you one so it can be fitted during assembly. You won't go wrong with whichever vendor you choose to buy from.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

As Brent indicates, if into fine point/original Brassworks. Make sure you read through/understand what's on Brasswork's Website including directions, cautions etc. It is best if you ship them your radiator to insure the new will fit properly and has the proper parts (EX inlet and outlet necks). There can be variances between models/years. They use Ford prints to make their radiators.





I really like my Bergs and think it is a nice looking radiator, but am not concerned about fine point. Actually have to run a thermostat, especially in the spring/fall when temps are lees than 70 degrees, otherwise the motor does not get up to the 160- 180 degree normal running temps. Another option is to simply block part of the radiator, but have to fuss with it a lot to keep the temp where you want it.

[MVal]

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Nothing worse than having to clean up the engine compartment when a radiator boils over--I have always used a 10 fin radiator and it works well for me in central CA where it was 112 yesterday!

[neds29]

I have a pressurized Brassworks radiator in my '29 ccpu. It was a close fit into the repro shell (maybe I should have sent the shell?), but finally fit just fine. I really like it, the only "problem" being is that it runs very cool. But that's better than the old one which overheated.
Ned

[shew01]

Originally Posted by neds29

I have a pressurized Brassworks radiator in my '29 ccpu. It was a close fit into the repro shell (maybe I should have sent the shell?), but finally fit just fine. I really like it, the only "problem" being is that it runs very cool. But that's better than the old one which overheated.
Ned

This works well for me. It comes with a 160 degree thermostat.


http://www.vintageprecision.com/prod...ing/index.html


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