Alternatives to the spring-loaded LT connection at distributor?

[johnbuckley]

I don't like the screw in spring loading contact of the LT to the distributor; as we all know it is difficult to gauge the correct amount to screw it in without deforming the lower plate. Has any one come up with a solution that looks the same from the outside but carries a wire direct to the points terminal . I have seen Model As with a simple LT wire running along the radiator stay and dropping down to the distributor but that spoils the aesthetics IMHO.

[john in illinois]

I removed the armored cable an hooked a primary wire to contact on the screw in
end of the pipe. It is easier to judge how far to screw it in without having to turn that armored casing. I ran the wire in asphalt wire loom and it looks period.


John

[Y-Blockhead]

Some of the vendors sell an ignition cable without the armor. Much easier to install.
https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A11575J.html

[nkaminar]

All my previous Model A's have had the armored cable removed so when I bought this one I was happy to see it had the armored cable. I always wanted one because it looks more original. I don't have a solution to prevent damaging the distributor except to be careful. It does not have to be tight. I have an after market ignition switch so the armored cable ends just inside the junction box on the firewall. It makes it easier to screw it into the distributor.

[1crosscut]

John I understand what you are saying. That said I've always screwed the distributor onto the armored cable three full rotations once the threads of the armored cable catch. It has never failed me.

[shew01]

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Originally Posted by 1crosscut

John I understand what you are saying. That said I've always screwed the distributor onto the armored cable three full rotations once the threads of the armored cable catch. It has never failed me.

That works for me as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ericr]

BTW, what is LT? I keep getting confused with LS/MFT.

[California Travieso]

Originally Posted by ericr

BTW, what is LT? I keep getting confused with LS/MFT.

Ericr,

If you remember that, you’re a real old timer!

Alexiskai0 has a good video On YouTube where he demonstrates how the cable fits in. It looks like you could leave the distributor body off to make sure it makes contact and you don’t screw the cable in too far.

David Serrano

[JKY]

Or screw it in until it's where you want it and then check with a Ohm meter to make sure 1) it's not shorted, and 2) the hot wire is connected.

[JBill]

I didn't even know it was an issue, and now it's something else to worry about!

[john_gto]

Hi Fordbarners


Attached are a few pictures of an old (broken) distributor with a cutaway area (last few pics) and partially cut lower plate showing the clearance area in question as I had similar concerns. After checking 8 separate distributors with several cut lower plates my observations were as follows:

1) the lower plate tab had more than adequate clearance from the shaft casting area with the cable screwed in hand tight as shown if the lower plate tab was in its original position -it can be bent back far enough to cause a short

2) a more likely area to cause a short is the distributor casting near the condenser screw and washer opening where the lower plate tab can make contact with the casting either due to excessive casting material (gently remove) or because the condenser has been push in to far (bending its outside mounting tab) which can be pushed back to be perpendicular to the condenser

Hope this helps clarify the clearance / short concerns of the lower plate tab.

John

[alexiskai]

I just did a short YouTube video that touches on these same issues.
https://youtu.be/nKZwX0klifI

[johnbuckley]

john_gto: great pictures! thank you.
ericr; LT aka low tension aka low voltage , as opoosed to HT aka high tension aka high voltage .. maybe only a UK expression as seems like you guys call the LT the primary wire ?

[JayJay]

I've taken apart several distributors that had some manner of insulator crammed in behind the lower plate flange (where the screw-in connector hits) between it and the distributor body to prevent shorting. Just did one this weekend and recognized a rubber faucet washer (the old kind with the hole in the middle). The car it came out of has the spring on the screw-in connector fully depressed with no "give" to it, so I surmise that it had been screwed in tightly to maintain contact. I suspect this was a shade-tree fix in the past. That wire is getting replaced. (Unfortunately, the distributor body was cracked at the upper bushing, which was too bad because otherwise it was in nice shape for rebuilding. Fortunately, I have a spare. Unfortunately, I now have to find another spare. Oh, I hope swap meets return soon!)

JayJay

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by JayJay

I've taken apart several distributors that had some manner of insulator crammed in behind the lower plate flange (where the screw-in connector hits) between it and the distributor body to prevent shorting.

The stock setup involves a fiber washer at the bus bar screw for this very reason, to prevent a short against the casting. Because the washer is wider than the hole on the casting through which the bus bar screw is inserted, the recommendation is usually to glue it to the bus bar before you install the lower plate.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

The stock setup involves a fiber washer at the bus bar screw for this very reason, to prevent a short against the casting. Because the washer is wider than the hole on the casting through which the bus bar screw is inserted, the recommendation is usually to glue it to the bus bar before you install the lower plate.

A - Are you talking about the end of the bus bar to which the condenser screws, or the end that the screw-in low tension wire (from the key) contacts (the end with the dimple)? I was speaking of the latter.

JayJay

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by JayJay

A - Are you talking about the end of the bus bar to which the condenser screws, or the end that the screw-in low tension wire (from the key) contacts (the end with the dimple)? I was speaking of the latter.

JayJay

Huh, interesting. Were these insulators rigid materials (which would push back against the spring) or just designed to keep the bus bar from shorting against the shaft boss as it bent out of position?

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

Huh, interesting. Were these insulators rigid materials (which would push back against the spring) or just designed to keep the bus bar from shorting against the shaft boss as it bent out of position?

I suspect the latter - to protect against shorting against the shaft boss if the screw-in connector was screwed in too far and the lower plate bent.

JayJay

[alexiskai]

I've often thought about threading a nut and lock washer onto the ignition cable, threading it into the distributor about 1-2 turns, and then tightening the nut against the casting to "lock" the cable in place. Not because it would do anything, but because it would discourage people from using all that thread and save a lot of lower plates.

[johnbuckley]

Well post #11 John _gto has solved the problem I had ... obviously incorrect lower plate shorting by condenser extension ( rogue plate on left in photo, previous one replaced becaues of degraded insulators)...I never thought to check that ,just fitted it ... it was presumably just insulated by a fraction of a thou or so or just by muck, if I screwed the armoured cable in too hard the plate would distort fractionally and create a short... It didn't help that I fit my condenser on the upper plates or by the coil .... hey ho problem solved Thanks everyone especially john_gto