Good quality chassis paint

[3twinridges]

Starting to think about priming and shooting color on some chassis parts for an F1. I want a matte or satin black not gloss. Looking at the PPG hot rod black or SEM hot rod black kit, they look like good paints. Anybody used anything else that would be a good chassis paint that would hold up over time? This would be for a complete restoration but also a driver.

Starting with springs and shackles, but will move into the frame over the summer.

JB

[swedishsteel]

Sandblasted, dipped, rusty, wire wheeled....?? Surface makes a difference what will last.

[3twinridges]

Everything will be media blasted including the frame.

JB

[Krylon32]

Why not powder paint?

[3twinridges]

I have access to a powder coater here locally, it’s just tough to move everything there and back, especially the frame.

JB

[36and63]

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I've used Eastwood chassis paint on 3 frames and been very pleased with results on all of them.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-or...oss-paint.html

Pat

[Krylon32]

I know moving a frame can be difficult. I've had around a dozen frames and suspension components powder coated. I just enlist friends and neighbors to help with the move.

[uncle buck]

“Chassis Saver” semi-gloss black is the best I have found. It is made by Magnet Paints. It will survive being beat with a hammer and fold in half with out chipping or flaking off

[3twinridges]

Originally Posted by uncle buck

“Chassis Saver” semi-gloss black is the best I have found. It is made by Magnet Paints. It will survive being beat with a hammer and fold in half with out chipping or flaking off

Thanks bud, my concern on the chassis saver is that it says it’s sensitive to uv light, and over time will shift to charcoal gray. That’s why I was thinking of using a 2K product. I have used por15 brushed on and then sprayed with top coat chassis paint, it looks really good and clean still but that paint is only a few years old.

JB

[rhphotord]

Powder coating great for the frame but then again it's only the frame. Is it a concours restoration? Your call regardless and your wallet. I sprayed Eastwoods frame and chassis paint on my 34 ten years ago and still looks new. Went cheap on my AV8 build and used tractor enamel brush and roller application. Went that way on my traditional hot rod AV8 roadster figuring that's how the post WWII guys would have had to do it. Thinned correctly it really looks good. No right answer

[OldGold360]

Wurth also make a product similar to POR15 that I’ve used in the past. Spray or brush on. Also, Sherwin Williams makes a product called Polane that is good. It’s available thru their industrial stores. Make sure to use the UV additive though. Regardless of what you use, preparation is everything. I plan to power coat my frame, only because I don’t want to wire wheel it myself and would rather have it media blasted. Might as well have them powder coat it as well.

[36coupe]

Some people like JD blitz black, satin. Not UV protected, not sure if that would be a problem on a frame.

[PeteVS]

Years ago, I had a Ford Ranger pickup. The rear spring shackles had been powder coated. The powder coating kept the moisture inside and the corrosion well hidden until they both snapped.

[PeteVS]

Originally Posted by 3twinridges

It’s just tough to move everything there and back, especially the frame.

JB

Moving the frame from my previous project:

[3twinridges]

Thanks guys for the feedback. Non of my trucks are concourse, I just want them to look nice, drive them, and especially use our 50 F1 for the farm. I know there are nay sayers to the POR product, but our 52 frame was media cleaned, POR painted with a brush and then sprayed with POR top coat in the windows specified and it looks really nice and is holding up well. The good thing about that, is that I can touch up places, etc with the rattle can of top coat. The products mentioned seem to be about the same, and I am familiar with the POR steps. Appreciate it!

JB

[Karl]

I've used POR 15 - and carried the evidence on my hands for weeks
POR15 is also sensitive to UV light so does need a topcoat as well.
Also has some isocyanates in it so some care is required -Probably best not to get it all over your skin like I did despite using gloves

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

Moving the frame from my previous project:

[3twinridges]

Originally Posted by Karl

I've used POR 15 - and carried the evidence on my hands for weeks
POR15 is also sensitive to UV light so does need a topcoat as well.
Also has some isocyanates in it so some care is required -Probably best not to get it all over your skin like I did despite using gloves

LOL bud! I remember the first (and last) time I treated a gas tank with POR gas tank sealer. I had it everywhere, on the floor of the shop, and on my hands (my nitrile gloves tore). I had to go to work like that, took a week to wear off.

JB

[fordor41]

I used Rustoleum satin black(brushed on) on my '41 frame and running gear. after 24 yrs it still looked great. cheap to touch up if needed.

[36coupe]

For Canadians there is a produce similar to POR15 called DOM16 made by Dominion Sureseal about half the price of POR15
Self levels when painted with a brush

[5851a]

Originally Posted by fordor41

I used Rustoleum satin black(brushed on) on my '41 frame and running gear. after 24 yrs it still looked great. cheap to touch up if needed.

Yep Rustoleum and agree with the touch up also. Not a huge fan of powder coat and no way to touch up. Like Pete I had a mid 90's Ford truck, the powder coated parts that had taken chips looked fine but the metal behind rusted to the breaking point. JMO