04-06-2017, 11:08 AM | #1 |
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Torqueing head
While I understand how to torque the head, I have read that it is not good to torque water outlet because it is normally not the same material and the ears could be broken off.
Is it prudent to use a washer under the outlet nuts and just get them as close to the head torque as possible? What do you folk do about this problem? Thanks |
04-06-2017, 11:14 AM | #2 |
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Re: Torqueing head
If you use a paper thin gasket or just RTV on the neck, they're NOT as prone to cracking. Those LONG bolts ARE head bolts also & should be torqued accordingly!
Bill Tight
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04-06-2017, 11:20 AM | #3 |
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Re: Torqueing head
I did what Bill suggested, and just used RTV silicone.....my machinist made sure both mating surfaces were flat and I've had no leaks or cracks.....
I've torqued the head two or three times since it was installed....water outlet studs included...
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04-06-2017, 11:30 AM | #4 |
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Re: Torqueing head
You do need to torque this location for your head gasket to seal. Washers may help ever so slightly but not enough to eliminate the risk. Washers would not look correct either.
I, like Bill suggests, do not use a thick paper gasket at this point. I use Permatex, Right Stuff, or a good grade of silicone. Since starting this practice about 6 years ago, I have not had one crack. I know, not having the gasket, will not look original but I mostly build engines for owners that consider it more important that they run issue free rather than look original. Good Day! www.fordmodelaengines.com Last edited by Dave in MN; 04-06-2017 at 04:50 PM. |
04-06-2017, 11:57 AM | #5 |
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Re: Torqueing head
Let's define the problem for understanding. Washers do nothing and are irrelevant to accomplish anything. The issue is when gaskets of compressible material are used, the ears of the outlet bend down and eventually break off. The problem arises when the vendors thick paper gaskets are used. They get soggy with time, squish out at the ears and break off the ears. When it happened to me, it took a week after I torqued it before it broke.
I ended up ůseing the RTV solution, and problem solved. |
04-06-2017, 02:30 PM | #6 |
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Re: Torqueing head
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04-06-2017, 02:43 PM | #7 |
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Re: Torqueing head
I use the copper gasket,, never broke one when using them and it looks correct..
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04-06-2017, 03:19 PM | #8 |
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Re: Torqueing head
yup - ive heard only use the copper gasket or no gasket and rtv...currently using no gasket and high heat rtv and no leaks
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04-06-2017, 03:30 PM | #9 |
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Re: Torqueing head
Like Mitch, I have always used a copper gasket, and they are Original, and always did come with a gasket set until they put cheap paper in them.
When you tighten the two nuts with paper, the outlet between the bolts stops moving, and the outside of the bolts doesn't, and you will bust ears off every time, and as Dave said, the head gasket has to be torqued. You have to order the gasket by its self. Herm. |
04-06-2017, 03:32 PM | #10 |
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Re: Torqueing head
The problem is that the old gaskets have compressed on the ends where the studs are and allowed the water neck to warp down on the ends. If you add a thick gasket , it will leak in the middle so you tighten it up some more and it breaks the ears off. The water neck studs need to be tightened to the same spec as the rest of the head studs to ensure proper gasket sealing. My solution is to flatten the mating surface of the neck, starting with a file, finishing with 80 grit sandpaper stuck to a plate of glass,( flattest thing in the shop. ) Take a flat steel block, stick some 80 grit to it and dress off the mating surface on top of the head. Now your mating surfaces are both flat and will bear evenly. I use rtv to seal instead of a gasket, and torque up the 2 long studs the same as the rest. Haven't broken a neck in the last 40 motors. (Also no leaks.)
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04-06-2017, 04:05 PM | #11 |
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Re: Torqueing head
Use a large bastard file to make sure you're perfectly flat , particularly on the neck.
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04-06-2017, 06:08 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Torqueing head
Quote:
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04-06-2017, 08:34 PM | #13 |
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Re: Torqueing head
Pop taught me to torque those two five pounds lighter than the rest. I've never had a problem doing it that way.
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04-06-2017, 09:38 PM | #14 | |
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Re: Torqueing head
Quote:
Works well on most ANY metal. Bill Flat P.S: Minervas' neck went 2 weeks with a regular gasket. Sitting in the garage with warm engine, that DUDE popped like a RIFLE shot, scared the CRAP out of me---Better than Benefiber
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04-07-2017, 04:45 AM | #15 |
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Re: Torqueing head
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04-07-2017, 07:57 AM | #16 |
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Re: Torqueing head
Use the copper gasket and torque each side in stages. Start at 40 lbs and go up at 5 lb increments. Haven't broken one yet.
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