239 Y-Block duel exhaust

[mfirth]

I may be switchin from flathead to Y-Block & wondered if anyone makes headers for a 1954 239 Y in a car with auto trans. Thanks in advance !!!

[KULTULZ]

What style are you interested in, individual tube or log style?

- https://reds-headers.net/index.php?m...3akig7158jq004

- https://www.jamcosuspension.com/prod...headers-ybhdrs

[dmsfrr]

Are you considering an engine swap into a vehicle that had a flathead?
Or, 'upgrading' to a newer era of vehicle? It will likely make a difference.

Dual exhaust stock/oem cast iron exhaust manifolds can be found Used.
Here's a chart of casting numbers to look for, to fit various applications.

http://www.y-block.info/casting/exhaust.html

Clearance to the steering column or shift linkage may or may not be a problem, depending on their layout in the vehicle.

Did you select the '54 239 Y-block for a particular reason?
It can be much like a one-year-only engine version and harder to find (rebuild) parts for.

There are 2 versions of the 239: '54 EBU and '55 EBV. They aren't the same.
http://ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm

.

[mfirth]

Thanks guys! I should have been more specific; sold my 52 Vic & now looking at a 1954,
2 door sedan with 48K miles, manual steering & auto trans. I knew Reds had flathead parts, unsure about Y-Block. Interesting about the 55 EBV. Thanks so much !!!!

[dmsfrr]

Fyi, some of the early 239 Y-block engine parts aren't available or interchangeable with other years like the 272 and later versions made thru '64. The early cam bearings for example haven't been commercially available for a very long time.
IF it needs major engine work in the near future a swap to a slightly newer engine should be easier to get rebuild parts for.
A '55 272 or 292 can appear virtually the same as the original 239 if that's a concern.
If not, an even newer engine may be an option (289/302?) because Y-block rebuilds can be pricey.
.

[mfirth]

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Thanks for the heads up on the 239 cam bearings dmefrr. I know well how pricey Y-Block & flatheads are to rebuild. We will see. Thanks again !!!!!!

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

IF it needs major engine work in the near future a swap to a slightly newer engine should be easier to get rebuild parts for.

A '55 272 or 292 can appear virtually the same as the original 239 if that's a concern.

GOOD ADVICE here.

The 1954 PASS CAR EBU 239 was the odd child. The 1954-1955 TRUCK EBV 239 was the later CLEVELAND FOUNDRY design which all following FYB's were copied from.

Unless you want a dead restore, it would be better (IMO) to use a later 272/292.

[JimNNN]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

Fyi, some of the early 239 Y-block engine parts (cam bearings for example) aren't available or interchangeable with other years like the 272 and later versions made thru '64.

.

I can verify that the fuel pump wasn't the same in my early 239 Y block as in later Y blocks. It was the source of much confusion for several parts store clerks and myself shortly after I bought my car. The "push rod" for the pump was configured differently. I had to send my original pump out to be rebuilt. No new or rebuilt units were available off the shelf, at least at that time.

The earlier engine had a different number of gear teeth on the cam for the distributor ( I want to say 13 instead of 14...going off of memory.) Many engine rebuild kits will state in their specs they will only work with 14 gear teeth cams. For this reason, I've decided - at this point - that if my old '54 wagon's 239 ever gives out I'll likely get a 272 core from '55 and try my hand at rebuilding it rather than rebuilding the original engine, as much as I'd like to do that. I.e., I agree with what others have said.

Not trying to talk anyone out of anything, just giving my perspective.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by JimNNN

...
The earlier engine had a different number of gear teeth on the cam for the distributor ( I want to say 13 instead of 14...going off of memory.) ...

You memory of the cam / dist tooth count is correct. And the shaft hardware just below it to drive the oil pump was different also. Not the more common hex drive.

[paul2748]

If you want to put dual exhausts on a 239, the later 55 and 56 manifolds should work ok. In a stick car, you have to change the Z bar (clutch cross bar) to a 55 or 56 unit.. It has a slight curve to it so the exhaust pipe clears.

[JeffB2]

The owner of this company is also a 1954 Ford owner, no modification to the clutch linkage is needed. http://www.spotlitekustomaccessories...k_Headers.html See below for them installed.

[JeffB2]

Good fit !

[55blacktie]

Ted Eaton/eatonbalancing.com can help with anything you need to know about Y-blocks.

[56 Panel]

If you decide to go with common rail headers. I have a set of Red,s headers.
Was told by Victor at Red,s headers that they fit 54 car only.
They were made pre 1998 because it has the for script on them.
Let me know if interested. Thanks Joe

[KULTULZ]

Was told by Victor at Red,s headers that they fit 54 car only.

Now that is interesting. Did he give a specific reason (engine and/or chassis)?

[56 Panel]

Kultulz When I sent him the pictures of the headers, Victor told me
that's what they were for. I think it has to do with the length of the pipe coming out of the common rail, that makes it 54 only. He said that Ford made them remove the Ford script in 1998.

[KULTULZ]

I think it has to do with the length of the pipe coming out of the common rail, that makes it 54 only.

Appreciate that.

There must be a difference in the 54 and 55 chassis design.

[JMFL36]

If you do go with a dual exhaust setup, be sure to relocate the front steel fuel line. Here's where I plumbed the line on my '54 Mercury Monterey with dual exhaust. It originally ran on the other side of the steering box, and would boil the gas in the line after the exhaust got up to temperature.