New project that should be fun

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Bob C

When you go back together the welt for the gas tank is smaller than fender welt, you need 1/8". Here is a picture Marco posted of how the welt was cut and punched in case your old

one is trashed.

Thanks Bob. I have the 1/8" bead material from 1940 Ford projects.

[Kube]

Fuel tank is back in. I keep learning new things.

Now, here's the latest issue:
This car has started up quickly, smoothed out almost immediately and runs well. Now? The spark advance rod is heating up. Obviously, it's getting some electrical juice to it somehow.
I have gone through the distributor (again) and did find the lower plate to be defective. Installed a new one that tested fine.
The rod still gets hot.
I am utilizing a modern "key switch" vs. the authentic pop out. I was careful not to thread that in too far.
What am I missing guys?

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Kube

Fuel tank is back in. I keep learning new things.

Now, here's the latest issue:
This car has started up quickly, smoothed out almost immediately and runs well. Now? The spark advance rod is heating up. Obviously, it's getting some electrical juice to it somehow.
I have gone through the distributor (again) and did find the lower plate to be defective. Installed a new one that tested fine.
The rod still gets hot.
I am utilizing a modern "key switch" vs. the authentic pop out. I was careful not to thread that in too far.
What am I missing guys?

Check your grounds. Sounds like your path to ground in thru the advance rod!! When things get corroded the electrons with take the easiest path, in your case the advance rod.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Ruth

Check your grounds. Sounds like your path to ground in thru the advance rod!! When things get corroded the electrons with take the easiest path, in your case the advance rod.

I'm probably overthinking this. I do that a lot.

The ground from the battery to the frame is beautiful. Where else should I look?

[Seth Swoboda]

Hi Mike. Sometimes I creep the Model A forum. Glad to see you're enjoying this new project.

[Tim Ayers]

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Originally Posted by Kube

Looks as if I've been busted!
Deuce, please keep in mind the intention is build a driver, not a trailer queen.
That'll be a first for me

That truck is beautiful. There is something about that green color. Classy, yet still looks like a work truck.

[AYooperA]

Just a thought, Could the horn wire be shorting somewhere in the column and getting to the advance rod?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by AYooperA

Just a thought, Could the horn wire be shorting somewhere in the column and getting to the advance rod?

ZERO wires hooked up going to or through horn rod at this time.

[rotorwrench]

If the spark control lever rod is getting hot via the distributor connection then the lever on the distributor should be hot too. The switch rod is inside the steering shaft which has contact at the top via the column bushing and at the bottom through the worm & bearings. The top bushing originally had a cotton web piece permiated with grease to act as a bushing but they deteriorate and make more contact as they wear. The bushing puck was originally zinc die cast and it makes contact with the whole column jacket and the control rods. I'd figure all that all that stuff would be hot if there is a direct short but that is the ground path so it only has flow when there is ground contact and a full circuit to flow some current. The wire inside the light switch/horn rod can short in there but the horn would sound if it still functions. Disconnect the horn power wire and insulate it to see if the heat effect goes away. Wires can short together down in the light switch and make a path where there was no path before. If the light and horn power wires are disconnected from the generator then I don't know where the current flow could be coming from.

Other sources of heat aren't close enough to the steering column to affect it much. The control rod that runs between the spark lever on the distributor and the spark lever rod might contact the head but I don't think it would conduct much heat to the rod in the column. The throttle hand control is eventually connected to the engine but it doesn't usually get all that hot back there. It gets hot close to the manifold but conducting heat all the way up into the cab is a long shot.

[Kube]

Just to be clear (I hope) ... I have NO wires in the steering column at this time. The rod to the distributor is getting hot not from running (engine heat) but rather, from electricity.

[Bob C]

Run an additional ground wire from the one connected to the frame
to the transmission.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Kube

I'm probably overthinking this. I do that a lot.

The ground from the battery to the frame is beautiful. Where else should I look?

Yes but how is the ground of the engine to the battery and/or frame? Sounds like your ground path is from the distributor thru the spark advance rod to the frame then back to the battery.

Do as Bob C suggested and Run an additional ground wire from the one connected to the frame or battery to the transmission.

[katy]

Do as Bob C suggested and Run an additional ground wire from the one connected to the frame or battery to the transmission.

Make that a ground cable, same size as the cable from the battery to the starter, not just a wire.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Run an additional ground wire from the one connected to the frame
to the transmission.

I'd added a woven ground strap between the transmission / battery ground at frame rail. I'd also added a woven strap from the block to the frame rail.
Guess what? IT DID THE TRICK!!!


I sincerely want to thank you and all of the others that had offered me advice.
You Model A guys are the most helpful group I'd ever "worked" with.

THANK YOU ONE AND ALL!

[sugarmaker]

Kube,
I also found you! A driver you say? Well it sure sounds like you're having a blast! A lot like me when i started on my truck project. Good luck on your A pickup.
We could use some pictures!
Regards,
Chris and Cheryl