1930 Model A Tie Rod Loose

[Wascator]

Hi, just got a nice A; noticed the right-hand tie rod end has too much movement. I noticed there is no cotter pin in the end, and the end plug seems screwed in pretty far. The driver’s side has no looseness and it has a cotter pin.
I need to know how to inspect the joint: how to inspect the ball, mostly. I know the other parts are replaceable.

[J Franklin]

Turn the screw plugs out and knock tie rod up past the balls. You should find 1 side has 2 cups and one side has 1 cup and screw end that surround the ball with 1 stout spring on each side. It is too dark out to see which side is the drivers side. The ball needs to be mostly spherical to give smooth steering.

[Wascator]

OK thanks. I haven’t been able to turn the screw plug yet; I may have to buy the tool made for that. It’s not rusty at all. Otherwise the steering is very smooth.

[Ramman]

On reassembly, how tight do you run in the end plug?
Till a little slop?
Till no slop?
1-2 turns past no slop?

Thanks Forum. You folks are THE BEST!

[katy]

The only reference that I've found that tells how to adjust the tie-rod, drag link ends is in my 1965 Ford Truck shop manual that says: "Tighten the threaded plug in the end of the socket until the spring is fully compressed (ball seat bottoms on spring seat). Then back off the plug approximately 1 turn to the point where the slot in the plug lines up with the cotter pin holes in the drag link. Install a new cotter pin through the end of the drag link to lock the plug."

Not sure if this apples to Model As or not.

[JayJay]

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I seem to recall a spec calling for 25% spring compression? That is, if the spring is 1" long then run the threaded plug in until it everything seats, then 1/4" more? Of course, the slot in the head of the plug needs to clear the holes in the tie rod so that you can get a cotter pin in.

JayJay

[Y-Blockhead]

Les Andrews Red Book sez;

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Turn the screw plugs out and knock tie rod up past the balls. You should find 1 side has 2 cups and one side has 1 cup and screw end that surround the ball with 1 stout spring on each side.

I don't see two cups on one side on the tie rod? Are you thinking on the drag link?


Are you thinking on the drag link?

[katy]

Here's how the tie rod and drag link should be assembled:

[J Franklin]

I was just looking at a catalog photo of the parts kit to try and jog my memory, you are correct since the kit is for either. He may be missing a part or has a broken/wrong spring on the loose side.

[Jerry Kzoo]

If the spring is 1" when non compressed. Fully compressed would still be 1/2", since the spring itself has coils with cumulative length, then 25% compressed would be about 7/8". The plug is 16 tpi I think, so tightening 2 turns after all slop is removed would be about 1/8". Does that make any sense?

Jerry

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Jerry Kzoo

If the spring is 1" when non compressed. Fully compressed would still be 1/2", since the spring itself has coils with cumulative length, then 25% compressed would be about 7/8". The plug is 16 tpi I think, so tightening 2 turns after all slop is removed would be about 1/8". Does that make any sense?

Jerry

A lot more analytical that I was, to be sure.

What I've found in practice is that after a certain point it becomes so difficult to screw in the plug that you just say "good enough" and put in the cotter pin.

JayJay