The Ford Barn

Dorf55 · 07-12-2020, 11:11 AM

About five years ago i disasembled my 1955 ford fairlane (272) now i finaly have it back together. I'm having trouble with vapor lock.i think i understand what vapor lock is and what the solutions are so this is my question.

On the top of my fuel pump, i think it's called the vacum pump body i have two male inlet tubes, i think it's where vacume lines for the windshield washer went but i'm not sure. I'm not running windshield wipers so i pluged the two inlet tubes, should i plug them off ? Can this in any way contribute to my vapor lock issues?

Thank you

Daves55Sedan · 07-12-2020, 05:53 PM

I suggest removing the plugs immediately. If you look closely at the top you should see text that identifies which port goes to intake manifold brass fitting and the other one goes directly back to wipers (via rubber hose thru the firewall). For best results, use metal tubing on vacuum lines as much as possible.
No this has nothing to do with vapor lock.
If you truly are experiencing vapor lock, you need to add a 1/4" or more thick phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold. It will be necessary to get another carb mounting gasket also. That will most likely end your vapor lock problem.
It's possible you are being fooled by the apparent symptoms though.
If you are using the original style Holley 2100 2-bbl or Ford EBU 2-bbl carb, they can have fuel related problems whose symptoms mimic vapor lock.
These types of carbs as well as the older 8BA carbs for flathead Fords can leak gas down the intake manifold and flood out the cylinders. The usual suspects are busted power valve diaphragm or power valve gasket that is not properly seated. Both problems are due to POOR QUALITY components in gasket sets usually, but sometimes the bottom of your main body is scored at the power valve mounting surface (which would need to be carefully milled down flat).
Another thing that can happen with these is that if your ball check recess in the bottom of the accelerator pump chamber gets dirty or clogged with ethanol deposits, you will have the same problem because gas will leak out thru there.
I am still using the original EBU carb and load-o-matic distributor. It is a good system if you can get good carb gasket materials and decent ignition condensers and points.
Lately, I have been getting my gaskets from Dicks Hot Rod carbs. I think he is in Texas.
I was using Mikes Carb Parts, but they have discontinued the kits for these types of carbs (or run out of stock).
While you're at it, double check your float setting against the last kit instructions you used. If you don't want to mess with your carb, you can always send it to Sal Cicala who also frequents this forum. He will fix it right for you.

Daves55Sedan · 07-12-2020, 05:57 PM

BTW, I believe I have seen the carb spacer offered in one of the resto parts suppliers catalogs recently.
I actually cut my own out of a square piece of phenolic stock using a jigsaw and a hole-saw matching your venturi size which is 1" diameter for the Ford EBU. The Holley 2100 has 1-1/16" venturi's.

Dorf55 · 07-12-2020, 06:58 PM

Daves55Sedan

Thanks for the info.
DO you think since I'm not running wipers,it would be ok to just remove the plugs, without running any lines if the lines are only to run the wipers ?

40cpe · 07-12-2020, 07:26 PM

Just thinking this through, but if the vacuum wipers are in the off position isn't it the same as the hose being plugged? There is no vacuum being circulated.

paul2748 · 07-12-2020, 07:44 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I have the ports closed off in my 56 Tbird (converted to electric wipers) and no problems.

scicala · 07-12-2020, 09:01 PM

"If you truly are experiencing vapor lock, you need to add a 1/4" or more thick phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold. It will be necessary to get another carb mounting gasket also. That will most likely end your vapor lock problem."

Vapor lock isn't a carburetor issue. Vapor lock is caused by heat in the fuel delivery system to the carburetor (fuel pump/fuel lines). The gas boils and turns to vapor, which the fuel pump can't pump. The fiber spacer under the carb will help prevent the fuel from boiling in the carb after shutting off a hot engine, and can improve hot starts.

Sal

07-12-2020, 11:11 AM	#1
Dorf55 Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Omaha Ne. Posts: 34	Fuel pump / vaporlock About five years ago i disasembled my 1955 ford fairlane (272) now i finaly have it back together. I'm having trouble with vapor lock.i think i understand what vapor lock is and what the solutions are so this is my question. On the top of my fuel pump, i think it's called the vacum pump body i have two male inlet tubes, i think it's where vacume lines for the windshield washer went but i'm not sure. I'm not running windshield wipers so i pluged the two inlet tubes, should i plug them off ? Can this in any way contribute to my vapor lock issues? Thank you

07-12-2020, 05:53 PM	#2
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: Fuel pump / vaporlock I suggest removing the plugs immediately. If you look closely at the top you should see text that identifies which port goes to intake manifold brass fitting and the other one goes directly back to wipers (via rubber hose thru the firewall). For best results, use metal tubing on vacuum lines as much as possible. No this has nothing to do with vapor lock. If you truly are experiencing vapor lock, you need to add a 1/4" or more thick phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold. It will be necessary to get another carb mounting gasket also. That will most likely end your vapor lock problem. It's possible you are being fooled by the apparent symptoms though. If you are using the original style Holley 2100 2-bbl or Ford EBU 2-bbl carb, they can have fuel related problems whose symptoms mimic vapor lock. These types of carbs as well as the older 8BA carbs for flathead Fords can leak gas down the intake manifold and flood out the cylinders. The usual suspects are busted power valve diaphragm or power valve gasket that is not properly seated. Both problems are due to POOR QUALITY components in gasket sets usually, but sometimes the bottom of your main body is scored at the power valve mounting surface (which would need to be carefully milled down flat). Another thing that can happen with these is that if your ball check recess in the bottom of the accelerator pump chamber gets dirty or clogged with ethanol deposits, you will have the same problem because gas will leak out thru there. I am still using the original EBU carb and load-o-matic distributor. It is a good system if you can get good carb gasket materials and decent ignition condensers and points. Lately, I have been getting my gaskets from Dicks Hot Rod carbs. I think he is in Texas. I was using Mikes Carb Parts, but they have discontinued the kits for these types of carbs (or run out of stock). While you're at it, double check your float setting against the last kit instructions you used. If you don't want to mess with your carb, you can always send it to Sal Cicala who also frequents this forum. He will fix it right for you.

07-12-2020, 05:57 PM	#3
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: Fuel pump / vaporlock BTW, I believe I have seen the carb spacer offered in one of the resto parts suppliers catalogs recently. I actually cut my own out of a square piece of phenolic stock using a jigsaw and a hole-saw matching your venturi size which is 1" diameter for the Ford EBU. The Holley 2100 has 1-1/16" venturi's.

07-12-2020, 06:58 PM	#4
Dorf55 Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Omaha Ne. Posts: 34	Re: Fuel pump / vaporlock Daves55Sedan Thanks for the info. DO you think since I'm not running wipers,it would be ok to just remove the plugs, without running any lines if the lines are only to run the wipers ?

07-12-2020, 07:26 PM	#5
40cpe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Star, MS Posts: 4,024	Re: Fuel pump / vaporlock Just thinking this through, but if the vacuum wipers are in the off position isn't it the same as the hose being plugged? There is no vacuum being circulated.

07-12-2020, 07:44 PM	#6
paul2748 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Midland Park, NJ Posts: 3,982	Re: Fuel pump / vaporlock Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have the ports closed off in my 56 Tbird (converted to electric wipers) and no problems. __________________ 48 Ford Conv 56 Tbird 54 Ford Victoria

07-12-2020, 09:01 PM	#7
scicala Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Detroit suburb, MI Posts: 3,706	Re: Fuel pump / vaporlock "If you truly are experiencing vapor lock, you need to add a 1/4" or more thick phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold. It will be necessary to get another carb mounting gasket also. That will most likely end your vapor lock problem." Vapor lock isn't a carburetor issue. Vapor lock is caused by heat in the fuel delivery system to the carburetor (fuel pump/fuel lines). The gas boils and turns to vapor, which the fuel pump can't pump. The fiber spacer under the carb will help prevent the fuel from boiling in the carb after shutting off a hot engine, and can improve hot starts. Sal