The Ford Barn

Walt Ebie · 06-06-2016, 03:42 PM

Having had my A for a year or so, most everything is getting back in good shape after very little driving by previous owners for over 30 years. But there is one thing I haven't really checked yet - the shocks. What's a good way to make sure they are working the way they should? If I take out the filler plugs how much fluid should I expect to find? From many of the posts I've seen, the current fluid to use is hydraulic jack fluid. Yes? Any help will be welcome.

Kurt in NJ · 06-06-2016, 05:13 PM

There is a test procedure in the service bulletins-- basically a 2foot arm with about a 40lb weight and time the motion through 20 degrees of movement---different time depending upon temperature

Mitch//pa · 06-06-2016, 05:36 PM

Remove the shock arm from the shock body itself leaving the links attached.. Use a wrench to move the shock, If you feel resistance in both directions with no skipping your good

Kurt in NJ · 06-06-2016, 08:07 PM

with about 8-12" wrench you should be able to slowly move it the direction a bump (up) would move it, but on the rebound(down) a properly working to original specs shock will feel like it won't move, after pushing as hard as you can for 15-20 seconds in summer, several times that in the winter it should move about 20 degrees, and if you move the wrench up---down there should be no "free" movement--if there is check oil level and move to both extreme positions to bleed---if it moves too easy adjust the valve

Clem Clement · 06-06-2016, 08:45 PM

Fill to 1/4 inch below the filler hole

H. L. Chauvin · 06-06-2016, 09:52 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Hi Walt,

1. It would not be surprising to see where a Model A owner receives his re-built shocks, moves the shock arms up and down, feels some untested resistance in "any" direction, and thinks his shocks are OK.

2. However, I ordered some rebuilt shocks, rebuilt about (6) years ago by advertised Model A shock re-builders, that were re-assembled incorrectly.

3. Some could not begin to pass the Ford test with a mock up K. R. Wilson Tool.

4. For example, incorrect internal parts got mixed up and resulted with lots of resistance while moving the shock arm upwards, and far less resistance when moving the same shock arm downwards.

5. When correctly re-assembled, correctly located shocks, i.e., Right & Left, and Front & Rear Locations, should require lots of resistance moving the shock arm downwards, and far less resistance when moving the same shock arm upwards.

6. One gentleman I contacted who owns an original K.R. Wilson Tool, (same as that indicated on page 538, Figure 1099 & 1100, in the Ford Service Bulletins), measured the indicated K. R. Wilson weight to be exactly 53.8 ounces, or (3) pounds plus 5.8 ounces.

7. The straight line distance between the center of the approximately (3") square weight indicated in the Ford manual to the center of the rotating square lug on the shock he reported to be 26-1/2".

8. If interested, a bar graph could be developed to estimate Ford's indicated winter shop temperature vs. Ford's estimated summer shop temperature, and on this graph, plot the temperature on the day one tested one's shocks in order to more accurately estimate the time required for the weight to fall at certain different temperatures.

9. Rather than send incorrectly rebuilt shocks back, I just ordered (4) new shocks from Mr. Bill Stipe, where all four easily passed this simulated K.R. Wilson test.

Hope this helps.

06-06-2016, 03:42 PM	#1
Walt Ebie Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: East Canton, OH Posts: 168	Checking Shocks Having had my A for a year or so, most everything is getting back in good shape after very little driving by previous owners for over 30 years. But there is one thing I haven't really checked yet - the shocks. What's a good way to make sure they are working the way they should? If I take out the filler plugs how much fluid should I expect to find? From many of the posts I've seen, the current fluid to use is hydraulic jack fluid. Yes? Any help will be welcome.

06-06-2016, 05:13 PM	#2
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: Checking Shocks There is a test procedure in the service bulletins-- basically a 2foot arm with about a 40lb weight and time the motion through 20 degrees of movement---different time depending upon temperature

06-06-2016, 05:36 PM	#3
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Checking Shocks Remove the shock arm from the shock body itself leaving the links attached.. Use a wrench to move the shock, If you feel resistance in both directions with no skipping your good

06-06-2016, 08:07 PM	#4
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: Checking Shocks with about 8-12" wrench you should be able to slowly move it the direction a bump (up) would move it, but on the rebound(down) a properly working to original specs shock will feel like it won't move, after pushing as hard as you can for 15-20 seconds in summer, several times that in the winter it should move about 20 degrees, and if you move the wrench up---down there should be no "free" movement--if there is check oil level and move to both extreme positions to bleed---if it moves too easy adjust the valve

06-06-2016, 08:45 PM	#5
Clem Clement Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fairfax, VA Posts: 3,393	Re: Checking Shocks Fill to 1/4 inch below the filler hole

06-06-2016, 09:52 PM	#6
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: Checking Shocks Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Hi Walt, 1. It would not be surprising to see where a Model A owner receives his re-built shocks, moves the shock arms up and down, feels some untested resistance in "any" direction, and thinks his shocks are OK. 2. However, I ordered some rebuilt shocks, rebuilt about (6) years ago by advertised Model A shock re-builders, that were re-assembled incorrectly. 3. Some could not begin to pass the Ford test with a mock up K. R. Wilson Tool. 4. For example, incorrect internal parts got mixed up and resulted with lots of resistance while moving the shock arm upwards, and far less resistance when moving the same shock arm downwards. 5. When correctly re-assembled, correctly located shocks, i.e., Right & Left, and Front & Rear Locations, should require lots of resistance moving the shock arm downwards, and far less resistance when moving the same shock arm upwards. 6. One gentleman I contacted who owns an original K.R. Wilson Tool, (same as that indicated on page 538, Figure 1099 & 1100, in the Ford Service Bulletins), measured the indicated K. R. Wilson weight to be exactly 53.8 ounces, or (3) pounds plus 5.8 ounces. 7. The straight line distance between the center of the approximately (3") square weight indicated in the Ford manual to the center of the rotating square lug on the shock he reported to be 26-1/2". 8. If interested, a bar graph could be developed to estimate Ford's indicated winter shop temperature vs. Ford's estimated summer shop temperature, and on this graph, plot the temperature on the day one tested one's shocks in order to more accurately estimate the time required for the weight to fall at certain different temperatures. 9. Rather than send incorrectly rebuilt shocks back, I just ordered (4) new shocks from Mr. Bill Stipe, where all four easily passed this simulated K.R. Wilson test. Hope this helps.