Gas rust

[wildwilly]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Vermin ran fine when I got him 2 1/2 years ago. Running a stock cast iron sediment bowl & the regular screen in the carb. Dropped the carb bowl & it had an accumulation of rust colored stuff that was fine, like talcum powder, but didn't plug up anything in the carb.
I WON'T use MICRO-FILTERS, as I'm quite sure the fine powder WOULD plug them up! (OH! & a magnet WILL NOT pick up the powder, they WILL pick up rust FLAKES, though!) I'll flush the tank as best I can, & use the little stainless "pencil" filter in the top of my fuel valve, & HOPE FOR THE BEST!!! Bill W.

I agree with you on the type of powder, Looks to fine to plug a carb, but playing hell on my glass inline filter. It really building up in there. going to test a magnet on it to see what this stuff is.

[wildwilly]

Originally Posted by Aok

The method in the link works well for me and a lot easier then removing the tank.

Thank you for this link

[wildwilly]

Originally Posted by Cockshutt Kid

Before going too far, are you sure the rust is coming from your gas tank. I have been having some issues with a very fine "rust" in several fuel tanks, some of them plastic. Also the fuel delivery company has come and installed filters on all of the farm tanks without being asked. It appears that the ethanol fuel is loosening up dirt and rust in the holding tanks and trucks and it is moving around and ends up...{guess where?} May or may not be relevant, but you might want to think about it before you tear a car apart.

Thank you for that heads up

[sequim]

Has anybody tried the 6% vinegar for 2-3 days? The motorcycle world uses this quite frequently. 2-3 days industrial vinegar, flush with water, spray and pour lots of WD40 at it repeatedly to suck up the water, use air to dry, more WD40 to stop flash rust etc. You can't roll the tank around if it's in the car, but if its right full it is covered. Petcocks have to be removed and they use really good duct tape -Gorilla brand. Just wondering if it would knock down a high percentage of the problem.

[kevinmac/toledo]

nobody even mentioned henry fords idea of a filtered stand pipe in the tank....attatched to the fuel valve....put on valve before installing the assembly... keeps from picking up trash from bottom of tank...most suply outfits sell them....couple bucks ...fixed mine.....kev

[31 RPU]

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Had the same problem on a roadster. Looked like the old powdered snuff I used to see old timers dipping. Ended up taking the tank off and had a radiator shop boil it out and seal it with a red stuff. Not sure what it was called but they said it would hold up. We don't run ethanol in anything we own so maybe it will be alright.
The tank had to be painted after it was sealed. It was a job getting the tank out and back in but I wanted to eliminate the problem. The way I see it the rust is metal out of your tank. The tank is eroding away and magnets are a bandaid not a cure. jmho of course.
I may have done wrong with the sealer but so far no more snuff in the bowl

[wildwilly]

Originally Posted by kevinmac/toledo

nobody even mentioned henry fords idea of a filtered stand pipe in the tank....attatched to the fuel valve....put on valve before installing the assembly... keeps from picking up trash from bottom of tank...most suply outfits sell them....couple bucks ...fixed mine.....kev

Great Idea !!! Thank you

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW: One experience:

Any gun owners?

Try going duck hunting on a body of water on a foggy cold morning in a humid area where gun metal gets cold followed by later warmer moist breezes when the sun come up which causes warmer moist air to contact colder metal & cause condensation.

Hunter A oiled his gun before leaving home, Hunter B did not -- whose gun has rust?

Gas tank metal, like all metal, is porous & sloshing gas alone can remove oil from metal; however, if one adds oil like Marvel Mystery oil, (4 ounces per 10 gallons of gas), small amounts of oil can soak & get down in the gas tank metal pores & help to prevent further rust.

Experiment: Soak (2) clean pieces of rusty steel in liquid solutions for (3) weeks: Piece G in gas alone; Piece O in gas mixed with oil -- remove & allow both to dry -- immediately paint both with paint -- allow to dry & let sit in sun -- did the oil affect the paint's adherence to the metal on Piece O, or is it your imagination?

Dry arid regions as opposed to humid regions make a substantial difference in gas tank rust deposits, especially in high humidity Coastal States -- ever guess why modern inboard boats left in the water have fiberglass fuel tanks.

Works for me!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Dog here, Duz sumbody have the TEKNOLOGY to make us sum fiberglass RE-PRO ges tanks fer ur Model A's??? Buster T.

[wildwilly]

Well with further inspection of my fuel tank today, More bad news. First of all, I drained what gas I had left in her. I pulled apart the Glass fuel filter I installed under the dash. All that brown powder looked like rust, yet not magnetic, So I would guess oxide is not magnetic because it would not stick to a magnet at all. Then I pulled the valve an all out of the bottom. There was a stand pipe already installed. I used a blower to blow out tank fumes for a few minutes, then shop vac'ed out the best I could inside. While looking under the tank, I noticed paint bubbles and damp around the steering column mount, an other spots. Now I am thinking that I may have to pull my tank out for repair or replacement. This now has me scared because it looks to be a big job, an don't want to ruin a good car. My next steps now is a lot of research. repair or replace ??? And, How the hell does that come out ???

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Well, Wild Willy, Dog here,
Chief tole Ol' Bill & he tole me, IT'S JIST BOLTS, NUTS, & SCREWS, to gitter' out! NO TORCH required! LOL Buster T.

[Jazzjr]

I used a blower to blow out tank fumes for a few minutes, then shop vac'ed out the best I could inside.

Wildwilly did you ever stop to think that you ran Gas Fumes through the Sparking Motors of the Blower and Shop Vacuum. You almost Did Ruin a Good Car!! Your lucky it didn't blow up, and You get Hurt!!

The only way to save the Car and Yourself, is to remove the Tank and Have it Fixed or Replace it with a Good Known Tank. Its not a big job, You just have to be careful removing and Installing it.
Stop and think about it, If You Value Your Life and your Model A, Fix it the right way.

[wildwilly]

Thanks Bill. Looking at all the cowls in the swap meet area, I am thinking of just repairing mine. All the ones I looked at are in ruff shape and rusted to high heaven. Have done some research on tank sealants, they make some high tech stuff now to handle the new fuels out there. Im going to take my time, an try my best to do this right the first time.

[wildwilly]

LOL, Thanks for your concern on my safety Jazzjr, I used my air blower off an air tank that was 50 foot away for a while. Had gas gauge out too for added air. did not vac til the smell was real week an felt safe enough to go for it, was a nice clear day with a slight breeze, an done this in the great out doors for best venation. Was in no mood to go Boom today. LOL