The Ford Barn

Tom Wesenberg · 08-09-2016, 01:52 AM

Not really, it's just one of those strange coincidences when Murphy pays a visit and lays down the law.

Two days ago I changed the oil on my 28, and as soon as I started the engine I could tell it was only running on three cylinders. I drove it a few miles around the neighborhood and it never hit on all four. I shorted the plugs and found #3 had almost no spark. I've been running an original single notch distributor body that I bought years ago at a swap meet.

Today I installed another swap meet single notch body, and it's hitting on all four again. Every time the distributor body goes bad it seems to be #3 that gets knocked out of action. Just mighty strange that it went bad just when I changed oil.

Actually Sunday wasn't a good day for me. I drove to Maple Grove to pay my Studebaker club dues for the next five years, and as we were talking cars, I told him about my 1999 Olds and how GM has been known for fuel and brake lines rusting out quickly. Two minutes later I get in the car to leave and my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out.
Now, was that perfect timing or what?

Dollar Bill · 08-09-2016, 02:19 AM

"Two minutes later I get in the car to leave and my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out"

Tom, you must be living right!! Glad you're okay and were not at highway speed when brake line failure occurred.

Any theories on why distributor problem affects only one cylinder?

Tom Wesenberg · 08-09-2016, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dollar Bill

"Two minutes later I get in the car to leave and my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out"

Tom, you must be living right!! Glad you're okay and were not at highway speed when brake line failure occurred.

Any theories on why distributor problem affects only one cylinder?

The only thing I can think of is the #3 spark plug strap lays against the body, and the others a further away. After installing another body I put a small bend in the strap to hold it about 1/8" from the body edge.

C26Pinelake · 08-09-2016, 08:40 AM

Its never so bad it can't be worse. That could led have happened as you approached an intersection. Wayne

Fordors · 08-09-2016, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Actually Sunday wasn't a good day for me. I drove to Maple Grove to pay my Studebaker club dues for the next five years, and as we were talking cars, I told him about my 1999 Olds and how GM has been known for fuel and brake lines rusting out quickly. Two minutes later I get in the car to leave and my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out.
Now, was that perfect timing or what?

I'm not trying to defend GM, or any other auto manufacturer, but I think there is a direct relationship between rusting brake lines and the use of salt brines for de-icing. With some cars it is brake lines, others are troubled with unibody sub-frames rusting and compromising their integrity, and it seems to be confined to vehicles in snow and cold regions.

DougVieyra · 08-09-2016, 11:35 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Tom Wesenberg , post # 1:
". . . my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out."
_________________________________

Now you know why me and Henry Ford remain stubborn in our defense about the superiority of the MECHANICAL BREAK system !

Jim Brierley · 08-09-2016, 11:45 AM

I hope you didn't waste any money buying lottery tickets that day!

Tom Wesenberg · 08-09-2016, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

I hope you didn't waste any money buying lottery tickets that day!

Just returned from Brake and Equipment, and the prices have taken a jump. Last year a brake line and quart of brake fluid cost me about $12.50, and today I had to pay $47.89 for a line and quart of fluid.

The line was 10 feet 10 1/2" long and made from copper/nickel, so it won't rust, and the cost was $20, but add in labor (2 minutes to press in 2 bubble flares for $15) and environmental fees (I did nothing to hurt the environment) 2 fittings, and taxes, and it makes me wish my Oldsmobile had brake rods like my Model A. At least with brakes rods I have dependable brakes.

Bruce · 08-09-2016, 03:17 PM

Alas, brake rods rust, too. I have some examples that are too good to pitch (or to sell at a swap) but too pitted to ever put on a car that someone I like might drive. On the other hand, it is a comfort not having to "chain up."

mshmodela · 08-09-2016, 03:23 PM

I will say automakers, all of them have made a lot of progress in terms of brake lines... I recall them only lasting 5 years in the salty winters here in Cleveland.. My old 92' explorer never had a line or any brake issue in the 14 years I had it..

Tom Wesenberg · 08-15-2016, 12:26 PM

It wasn't my distributor body after all. It was just a coincidence that it hit on all 4 after changing the part, and Saturday after leaving the New Brighton Antique Car Run it was hitting on only 3 again, and it was #3 not firing once more. This morning I checked my points, and found I must have neglected to set them when I put the distributor together a few weeks ago.

Anyway, this morning I set the points and tightened the locking screw, which was also loose, and it's running like it should once again.

Big hammer · 08-15-2016, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Just returned from Brake and Equipment, and the prices have taken a jump. Last year a brake line and quart of brake fluid cost me about $12.50, and today I had to pay $47.89 for a line and quart of fluid.

The line was 10 feet 10 1/2" long and made from copper/nickel, so it won't rust, and the cost was $20, but add in labor (2 minutes to press in 2 bubble flares for $15) and environmental fees (I did nothing to hurt the environment) 2 fittings, and taxes, and it makes me wish my Oldsmobile had brake rods like my Model A. At least with brakes rods I have dependable brakes.

Environmental charges for buying copper/ nickel coating products? Hope we don't get charged for carrying copper in our pockets :-)

SeaSlugs · 08-15-2016, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big hammer

Environmental charges for buying copper/ nickel coating products? Hope we don't get charged for carrying copper in our pockets :-)

what type of line did you buy??? a 25 FOOT roll of brake line is $23 at Orileys...

Tom Wesenberg · 08-15-2016, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

what type of line did you buy??? a 25 FOOT roll of brake line is $23 at Orileys...

I assume the line was made from solid copper nickel and not just coated. At any rate at least I have good brakes again, but will ask for a price before I buy there again.

Keith True · 08-15-2016, 05:08 PM

That copper/nickel line is a pleasure to work with.It turns green on the outside in short order in the salt,but it never seems to get worse.I have a hydraulic flaring setup I use to make lines with.I don't do a lot of car work,but it seems like a lot of them have a plain old double flare on one end,and an odd metric bubble flare on the other.I bought the tool because it makes the upsets on fuel and transmission lines.I'm paying $1.per foot for 3/16 line,five years ago it was $2.per foot.I have rolls of steel line hanging in the garage that I will never use now.Two local parts stores won't even stock steel line now.

Mitch//pa · 08-15-2016, 05:23 PM

Keith I have this set ...is yours similar? It does a great job along with all the specialty flares..

Jeff/Illinois · 08-15-2016, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Just returned from Brake and Equipment, and the prices have taken a jump. Last year a brake line and quart of brake fluid cost me about $12.50, and today I had to pay $47.89 for a line and quart of fluid.

)

No doubt lawyers and law suits are taking their 'cut'

reason for the 400% increase.

Tom Wesenberg · 08-15-2016, 06:59 PM

The guy told me I could buy the tool and do the flares myself. The tool clamps in the vice jaws and has a rotating head to make the different flares now in use. The tool cost $185.00 but since I'm no longer working as a full time mechanic, I hope I won't need more than a couple more bubble flares over the years.

I probably should have bought the tool just to guarantee that I won't need it again.

Keith True · 08-15-2016, 07:11 PM

Mitch,that's the one I have.I need to buy the die and mandrel for a plain old 37 degree flare.Seems like I'm always doing a furnace fuel line,or a gas line for something.After using the Mastercool hydraulic setup you want to throw rocks at the old hand flare tools.Jeff,I'll bet the cheap line he bought a year ago was the regular steel line.With everybody going to the copper-nickel stuff the stores are not bothering to stock steel.A year ago 25 foot rolls of 3/16 steel were $16.Right now they are $10,and it is gathering dust.What does surprise me is that the parts store did the flaring for Tom.I know the parts stores here get asked to do it,but they are parts people not mechanics.Not really sure I would want the parts people doing my brake line ends anyway.Brake fluid I buy when it is on special.Seems like one of the chain store is always running a special,buy 10 quarts,$3.each.I got caught short and had to buy one quart,I think it was about $8.I make sure that I won't do that again.

Mitch//pa · 08-15-2016, 08:39 PM

We replaced a lot of GM SUV / P-UP fuel and brake lines with the prebent stainless steel kit.. A big job to say the least...

08-09-2016, 01:52 AM	#1
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap Not really, it's just one of those strange coincidences when Murphy pays a visit and lays down the law. Two days ago I changed the oil on my 28, and as soon as I started the engine I could tell it was only running on three cylinders. I drove it a few miles around the neighborhood and it never hit on all four. I shorted the plugs and found #3 had almost no spark. I've been running an original single notch distributor body that I bought years ago at a swap meet. Today I installed another swap meet single notch body, and it's hitting on all four again. Every time the distributor body goes bad it seems to be #3 that gets knocked out of action. Just mighty strange that it went bad just when I changed oil. Actually Sunday wasn't a good day for me. I drove to Maple Grove to pay my Studebaker club dues for the next five years, and as we were talking cars, I told him about my 1999 Olds and how GM has been known for fuel and brake lines rusting out quickly. Two minutes later I get in the car to leave and my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out. Now, was that perfect timing or what?

08-09-2016, 02:19 AM	#2
Dollar Bill Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Keystone Heights, FL Posts: 647	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap "Two minutes later I get in the car to leave and my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out" Tom, you must be living right!! Glad you're okay and were not at highway speed when brake line failure occurred. Any theories on why distributor problem affects only one cylinder? __________________ I Love Anything That Turns Money Into Noise

08-09-2016, 08:40 AM	#4
C26Pinelake BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Michigan / Ontario border, Sarnia, Ontario. 50 miles from Detroit and 150 from Toronto. Posts: 5,800	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap Its never so bad it can't be worse. That could led have happened as you approached an intersection. Wayne

08-09-2016, 11:35 AM	#6
DougVieyra Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Eureka, California Posts: 1,716	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Tom Wesenberg , post # 1: ". . . my brake pedal goes to the floor. Another brake line just rusted out." _________________________________ Now you know why me and Henry Ford remain stubborn in our defense about the superiority of the MECHANICAL BREAK system !

08-09-2016, 11:45 AM	#7
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,091	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap I hope you didn't waste any money buying lottery tickets that day!

08-09-2016, 03:17 PM	#9
Bruce Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sun City West, AZ Posts: 489	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap Alas, brake rods rust, too. I have some examples that are too good to pitch (or to sell at a swap) but too pitted to ever put on a car that someone I like might drive. On the other hand, it is a comfort not having to "chain up."

08-09-2016, 03:23 PM	#10
mshmodela Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,763	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap I will say automakers, all of them have made a lot of progress in terms of brake lines... I recall them only lasting 5 years in the salty winters here in Cleveland.. My old 92' explorer never had a line or any brake issue in the 14 years I had it.. __________________ -Mike Late 31' Ford Model A Tudor, Miss Daisy I don't work on cars --I'm learning about my Model A. Cleveland, Ohio

08-15-2016, 12:26 PM	#11
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap It wasn't my distributor body after all. It was just a coincidence that it hit on all 4 after changing the part, and Saturday after leaving the New Brighton Antique Car Run it was hitting on only 3 again, and it was #3 not firing once more. This morning I checked my points, and found I must have neglected to set them when I put the distributor together a few weeks ago. Anyway, this morning I set the points and tightened the locking screw, which was also loose, and it's running like it should once again.

08-15-2016, 05:08 PM	#15
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,990	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap That copper/nickel line is a pleasure to work with.It turns green on the outside in short order in the salt,but it never seems to get worse.I have a hydraulic flaring setup I use to make lines with.I don't do a lot of car work,but it seems like a lot of them have a plain old double flare on one end,and an odd metric bubble flare on the other.I bought the tool because it makes the upsets on fuel and transmission lines.I'm paying $1.per foot for 3/16 line,five years ago it was $2.per foot.I have rolls of steel line hanging in the garage that I will never use now.Two local parts stores won't even stock steel line now.

08-15-2016, 06:59 PM	#18
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap The guy told me I could buy the tool and do the flares myself. The tool clamps in the vice jaws and has a rotating head to make the different flares now in use. The tool cost $185.00 but since I'm no longer working as a full time mechanic, I hope I won't need more than a couple more bubble flares over the years. I probably should have bought the tool just to guarantee that I won't need it again.

08-15-2016, 07:11 PM	#19
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,990	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap Mitch,that's the one I have.I need to buy the die and mandrel for a plain old 37 degree flare.Seems like I'm always doing a furnace fuel line,or a gas line for something.After using the Mastercool hydraulic setup you want to throw rocks at the old hand flare tools.Jeff,I'll bet the cheap line he bought a year ago was the regular steel line.With everybody going to the copper-nickel stuff the stores are not bothering to stock steel.A year ago 25 foot rolls of 3/16 steel were $16.Right now they are $10,and it is gathering dust.What does surprise me is that the parts store did the flaring for Tom.I know the parts stores here get asked to do it,but they are parts people not mechanics.Not really sure I would want the parts people doing my brake line ends anyway.Brake fluid I buy when it is on special.Seems like one of the chain store is always running a special,buy 10 quarts,$3.each.I got caught short and had to buy one quart,I think it was about $8.I make sure that I won't do that again.

08-15-2016, 08:39 PM	#20
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Changing Oil Wrecks Distributor Cap We replaced a lot of GM SUV / P-UP fuel and brake lines with the prebent stainless steel kit.. A big job to say the least...