Best continuous-use electric fuel pump??

[sidevalve8ba]

I am having electric fuel pump problems. I have been using a Carter P74017 low pressure pump with a pressure regulator. I am using twin 94's and have set the pressure at the regulator at 2.5#. I am not using a mechanical pump at all. The Carter pump is mounted at the tank and I have a fuel filter between the pump and the tank.

In the past year or so I have had two of these fail. They still make noise like they are pumping but it shows 0 pressure at the regulator. What am I doing wrong? Am I using the wrong style of pump or brand?

I just barely made it home today and I would like to remedy this problem. I searched the other posts but most if not all of what I found had to do with using the electric pump to prime the mechanical pump or in addition to the mechanical pump.

[TJ]

Are you using the regulator with the dial on it? If so, remove it and see if the pump is working properly. Your problem cold very well be the pressure regulator and not the pump. I don't use those regulators because I have had problems with them.

[George/Maine]

I bought a electric fuel pump from NAPA don't know #.
I mounted it up on frame behind the rear tire once it gets going its like gravity feed.
I run 2 97s with regulator.

[sidevalve8ba]

Originally Posted by TJ

Are you using the regulator with the dial on it? If so, remove it and see if the pump is working properly. Your problem cold very well be the pressure regulator and not the pump. I don't use those regulators because I have had problems with them.

No, the regulator I am using is a Holley with the adjustment screw and lock nut on the top. I have heard from others that the dial type are prone to problems.

I may try bypassing the regulator just to see. Thanks for the responses.

[sidevalve8ba]

Originally Posted by George/Maine

I bought a electric fuel pump from NAPA don't know #.
I mounted it up on frame behind the rear tire once it gets going its like gravity feed.
I run 2 97s with regulator.

Is it a cylindrical-looking pump with the inlet and outlet on either end?

[bobH]

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For whatever it's worth... I have one Carter pump in service. It's an old one, perhaps 25 years old, and it has been working fine. I have another car with a Airtex pump, been there about 10 years, no problems. Then, One more car that has had 5 Airtex pumps in the last couple years. Two came from napa, three from a local parts store in Airtex boxes, all look like the same pump. And, of these 5, four have failed, all within 1000 miles. I'm wondering 'what's up' - I have about zero confidence in this one car, and the pumps are a pita to change on the road. About the noise... These Airtex pumps make a 'clicking' sound, and it never seems to change. I would expect the clicking to slow down as the pressure builds against the float valve, but no, they keep on clicking the same, no matter if the carb is full or empty.
This is likely of no help to you - just sympathy. I am wondering though, the Carter pump you are using, is it the same as Airtex and Napa? I think the parts guy showed me a Carter pump once, and it looked identical to the Airtex and Napa ones. Are they all the same?? If so, you have my total sympathy. (And, no real answer.)
JMO

(yes, the pumps I speak of are 'cylindrical-looking', inlet & outlet on either end)

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Check the gas line form the pump to the tank. May have a pin hole or air leak. Walt

[Ross F-1]

That pump is shown as for TBI injection systems, yet it's a solenoid type pump?? I can't find any specs on it but most TBI systems run much higher pressure than any carb'd vehicle. I suspect there may not be enough flow for it to stay cool. I've been running the Airtex E8016S for several years with no problems.

[Vergil]

I am using a fuel regulator with a return fuel line back to the gas tank and a Carter low pressure pump ... no problems and with the return line it gets rid of the head pressure at the regulator and means less wear on the fuel pump.

[Charlie ny]

side,
I've had the best results with an electronic fuel pump called POSI-FLO.....
single carb application 41-509, 2 carb application 41-510...............these numbers
are Carquest I believe. The bodies are phenolic and very durable. The car must be
12 volt. I use the 41-510 without a regulator on 2x2's and find a steady 2 1/2 psi.
I will add here for what little it's worth I only use an elect F/P if the customer
wishes, I'm a 100% mechanical pump kinda guy, 2x2, 3x2, 4 brl.
Charlie ny

[49r]

My Carter 6V low pressure pump that I only use for starting failed within two years. I'm currently on my second and won't be trying a third.

[Ol' Ron]

Yes, I guess the Chinese haven't got the hang of it yet, had electric pumps that lasted forever. My 280 econo engine will have a mechanical pump with an electric back up. Not sure if that's necessary, but I won't be driving it, just the kids.

[john in illinois]

I have read good things about this pump,but have not
used one.

http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.co....html#fuelpump

John

[Marv]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

I have read good things about this pump,but have not
used one.

http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.co....html#fuelpump

John

Yes that is the one i would recommend. I like the alcohol and gear part. If they are not made for alcohol they are worthless. you may as well have the mechanical pump.
Electric Fuel Pump
available for both 6 and 12 volt applications. They are gear driven and will pump alcohol and all fuel additives. These fuel pumps overcome vapor lock by increasing the volume of fuel delivered while still maintaining the stock fuel pump pressure. Great Race tested.
Part # 92415EFP6- 6-volt
$95.00 each

Part # 92415EFP12- 12-volt
$95.00 each
Installation Instructions

small arrow6/12 volt electric fuel pumps, comes complete w/30 micron fuel filter, mounting hardware and instructions.

[FRITZ47]

A few years ago, I installed a 6-volt Airtex 8011 Electric Fuel Pump in my 1939 LaSalle for priming purposes only, as car had an original fuel pump that worked just fine. For the first year, the Airtex worked. Then I let the car sit for about a year or so without being driven. So after sitting for so long when I attempted to start the car, it started immediately, ran for about 4-5 seconds and stopped. We had a hunch that the rubber parts inside the airtex had swollen because of the Ethanol fuel that we have in Ohio.

We ran a bypass hose around the Airtex and the car started and ran normally. We removed the Airtex and using a rotary grinder dissected it. See attached pictures. I imagine that this pump was made for use with non-Ethanol fuel and with the fuel sitting in the pump for over a year, it gradually swelled the guts until it was completely blocked. Prior to dissecting the pump we tried to suck and blow air through it and could not do so. When the pump was new we could do this. If you have trouble with an electric fuel pump and replace it, keep the old one and see if you can blow through it, and/or cut it apart like we did to see what it looks like inside.

By the way, when using Etahnol fuel (10% in Ohio and non-Ethanol fuel not available nearby), it is critical that Fuel Injection Hose be used (not ordinary conventional fuel line rubber hose). Hose should be labelled 30R9, which is available at most any auto supply store in 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" inside diameters.

When I first became aware of this a few years back, I read about using fuel injection hose and mentioned it to my mechanic, who has several antique street rods. He didn't believe me and said, "I have been using regular fuel hose for over 20 years and never a problem." About a year or two later his pumps also failed and he asked me what type of fuel line hose should he use! Ethanol fuel either contains or turns to alcohol and this is what swells up rubber parts (fuel pumps - electric and mechanical, carburetor parts, ordinary fuel hoses). In my opinion, Ethanol is one of the worst challenges our hobby has ever faced.

Fritz

[sidevalve8ba]

Thanks to everyone who has replied. You have given some insight on electric pumps. Unfortunately in this application a mechanical pump cannot be used. I have always had good luck with mechanical pumps.

Does anyone use a a relay in their fuel pump electrical circuit? That thought just crossed my mind.

I am fortunate to have a couple of good sources of supply in this area for non-ethanol gas. That's not to say that I haven't used ethanol laced gas in the past but only a couple of times while traveling.

[FRITZ47]

Originally Posted by sidevalve8ba

Does anyone use a a relay in their fuel pump electrical circuit? That thought just crossed my mind.

I have never used a relay for any of my cars with electric fuel pumps, but always use an under-dash push-pull switch to manually turn on the electric fuel pump for priming, as most of my cars also have conventional fuel pumps. I do NOT use a toggle switch for this purpose, as it is hard to remember which way the switch is activated. With a push-pull switch, pull is always on and push is always off. In addition to this switch, the circuit must also be wired through the ignition switch so that it cannot run when ignition is shut off (safety factor). Some users connect the circuit through an oil pressure switch of some sort for additional safety, but I have never done this.

Some users pipe in a by-pass arrangement with check valve when using an electric fuel pump and others use pressure regulators. I prefer to find a pump that does not require a pressure regulator (low psi type) and that can be used in conjunction with the regular mechanical fuel pump, and I test each one to see if I can blow through it before installing it so that I do not need a by-pass and check valve arrangement (lots of plumbing to do so). This is not a scientific test, but gives some indication of what to expect when the electric pump that is used for priming is off and the mechanical pump doing the job.

Also important is that an electric fuel pump be of a low pressure type, as if too high, it could blow the seals of the original fuel pump (if used) and could also cause other problems within the carburetor. Selecting an electric fuel pump is not an easy decision, as there are so many brands, different pressures, different voltages (6 & 12 volt/other), and the necessity of the pump being made of Ethanol resistant components. For priming purposes only, you need very little pressure - maybe only 2 psi or so. Again, remember to use Fuel Injection Hose 30R9 on any/all fuel line hoses for reasons explained in my previous post. The older style fuel line rubber hose is no longer suitable for fuels containing Ethanol.

Fritz

[Marv]

I prefer to use a relay for my electric fuel pump. If you have a electric problem with the fuel pump it will not burn your wiring up, and when the relay cools and you let the pump cool for a half hour or so you may be lucky enough to have it work to get you to a parts place or home.

[41LjH]

Had a early failure with Airtex. Replaced it with Mr. Gasket. No problem since. Mine were 12V neg ground.

[36tbird]

Those Holley regulators are not "set and forget". Numerous times I have had to readjust mine. Also, be sure to check that your tank vent is clear. A problem there can make it seem that your pump has gone out. Voice of experience.