Muffler Heat Deflector installation Help

[REByar]

Hi,

Last year I had my brake system rebuilt and a new muffler(Aries) installed as well as the exhaust and intake manifold replaced. I have now decided to install a muffler heat deflector. I tried to put it on tonight but it would not fit on top of the muffler. Upon closer inspection I found that there is maybe 3/4 inch between the top of the muffler and the service brake shaft. I have a 1928 Tudor (August 1928) .

Any suggestions on how to install this much needed heat deflector would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
REB

[roccaas]

Sorry I can't help with your specific question as my car came with the heat shield installed, but I may suggest that if you want to add the transmission dip stick tube that comes up through the passenger's floorboard, add it at the same time as the insulation, since the tube comes up through the steel and insulation.

[Gus]

Did you happen to find an answer? I am faced with the same issue and wonder if my repop exhaust isn't the right size?

[verdirick]

My first question is which deflector did you purchase? The best one is made by Leslie Pam "Kool-Feet". Advertises in the Restorer... (310-275-1836). He may have an answer. You may also need to adjust the 90' bend in the muffler front pipe to give clearance between the muffler from your brake cross shaft. Should just be a minor adjustment fix. Good Luck.

[Gus]

Hi, I haven't yet bought a shield because I don't think it will fit. The gap is only about 3/8 between the top of the muffler and the cross shaft. Seems tight to me.

The rear bracket is mounted correctly so the only real adjustment would be to lengthen the 'down pipe' before it bends to the rear.

Should the gap be closer to an inch? Because mine is a repop I don't have much faith in its dimensions.
Thanks, Gus

[Synchro909]

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What rear engine mounts do you have? Are they Flota motor ones which might be a little too high. If they are the original solid ones, are they installed the right way up?
Either of these could cause the engine to sit too high, thus reducing the clearance as you describe.

[JohnLaVoy]

There are at least two manufacturers of the heat baffles. We reviewed both several years ago. Kool Feet 310-275-3836 was more expensive but was an improved product with a sandwich of material in the baffle to do a better job of deflecting the heat. The other advantage was the unit was installed using brackets that were not attached to the baffle until you bolted it in place. This would allow you to adjust the height if needed by putting additional holes in the bracket.

[Terry, NJ]

I found the heat shields to be pretty easy to duplicate. I used 12 ga aluminum with the edges bent down as in the pictures. Then I made 2 stainless steel brackets and welded them to muffler clamps. I made the SS brackets out of 40% Perforated 12 ga SS sheet stock. I used the perforated material to help with the air flow. Do they work? I believe they do, but not as well I would have liked. I think we might expect too much. Such as when you're sitting at a light, the heat's going to come up around the the tailpipe no matter what you do. Moving along is another story. I think that you must block the even higher heat from the muffler pipe next to the floorboard.
Terry

[fivefix]

REByar,

Getting back on topic, my Dad and I have both installed heat shields on our Tudors. One the lower cost version from Snyder's and one the more expensive Kool Feet version. Both did not have sufficient clearance on the brake shaft. We took the muffler mounting bracket at the rear of the car and mounted it to the bottom of the frame. This gave both of us sufficient clearance and still kept the connection at the exhaust manifold tight and free from leaks. Hope this helps.