saginaw steering box in a 39 redux

[cuzncletus]

The installation of the Chassis Engineering suspension under my 39 is going very quickly. The rear is in, next up is the dropped axle and disc brakes. I'm leaning towards a saginaw box but there are a couple of more complications before I decide. First, if the 39 column is used I assume I have to have a u-joint. How is this attached to the steering shaft? If I weld it on, then it becomes impossible to get the shaft out for repair of the steering wheel, correct? The alternative is using a column such as from Ididit. I'm not averse to this as I like the tilt and turn indicators. Can I put my stock 39 wheel back to the Ididit column? How about pan clearance issues?

Thanks for all the knowledgeable input.

[blucar]

If you are going to the trouble to upgrade the chassis on your '39 I would suggest you upgrade the steering column to either and after-market unit like Ididit or use a stock tilt column from a late model GM/Ford.
The GM style of columns seem to be more user friendly, especially the units out of a van, anything from the late 70's through the late 80's.
The advantage of the later model columns is the key, turn lights and dimmer switch being all within the column... You can also utilize the wiper switch if you really want to be tricky.
There are several manufactures that make the '39 Ford style of banjo steering wheel that fits the GM style of column.
I have a couple of cars that I have upgraded with all late model mechanicals. I like the "restorod" look so I try to keep things as stock looking as possible.. A late model column eliminates un-necessary switches on the dash, a aftermarket steering wheel adds to the original look.

[TJ]

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I've done several of these conversions using the stock column and stock banjo wheel. You will have to use a universal joint. You will use one with a 3/4 smooth bore on one end and the other end will have 30 or 36 splines depending if you have an early Saginaw or later one. Just for info the Saginaw box can be found also in Jeep vehicles. I use the original shaft from the stock box. If the box is a good one I usually don't cut the shaft as someone else may need the good box. I look for a worn out box and use the shaft from that one. Cut the shaft as close to the box as possible. You may have to cut it once more for the final fit. Better to have the extra length than cutting it too short. You will also have to trim the column tube for clearance on the universal joint.
I mock up the column with the steering wheel attached. Be sure to get rid of the rubber bushing in the upper column and replace it with a bearing and bushing from one of the V-8 suppliers( C and G Parts has them). You can also use the retrofit bearing that is sold on e-Bay. Be sure to get the spring that goes under the steering wheel and holds the tapered bushing in place on the bearing. Next go to yor local hardware store and get a wheel barrow bearing with an 3/4 inside diameter and a 1 3/8 outside diameter( this is a common bearing and costs about $4). Also get a 3/4 I.D. split collar at the same time.
Before assembling the parts check for fit of the wheel barrow bearing on the bottom end of the shaft. Most times you need to sand the end of the shaft to get the bearing to slide onto it. I use my belt sander to remove a few thousandths so the bearing will slide on.
Now put the upper bearing in the column, insert the shaft, place the tapered bushing on the shaft that fits into the upper bearing. Now put on the spring that puts pressure on the bushing and lastly put on the steering wheel. Next put the wheel barrow bearing on the bottom of the shaft and slip it up into the bottom of the column tube. Then put on the split collar which will hold the bearing into the bottom of the column. You will find that there is too much space between the upper part of the column and the steering wheel. To resolve this you need to put the wheel on a flat surface and push down on the column tube to compress the spring. I use a piece of carboard between the wheel and the tube to set the gap that I need between the wheel and the tube. Once you have the correct gap, you slip the split collar down against the lower bearing and lock it down.
Now you can remount the column in the car and determine how much you will need to cut off the shaft and tube for a correct fit. In placing the universal joint on the shaft I use a 3/16 roll pin to hold the joint on the shaft and then weld the joint all the way around the shaft. I wrap a wet rag aroung the joint so it does not get too hot from the welding. With this set up you can remove the steering wheel at any time without removing the column.