The Ford Barn

Dave1931Pickup · 08-06-2017, 10:04 AM

Hi Everyone, What is a good method for backing up the head of the shifting fork pins for upsetting the hollow head. So far I have tried various chisels, screwdrivers and chunks of steel only to find that I need six hands and more patience. Also after they are upset it appears that they would still be loose. Is that right. I've heard a few people say to use roll pins, but I want to do it the way Henry did it.
Thanks for your help, Dave

Brian T · 08-06-2017, 11:12 AM

Hi Dave,
I have been there a few times with success, but find the roll pins a better option, do not remember the size.

1955cj5 · 08-06-2017, 11:40 AM

I did it the first time with rivets, but they never would tighten up...always a little movement in the shift forks.

I made a bucking tool that held the heads and fit tightly in the case, but it seemed the available rivets did not have a deep enough recess in the end to allow them to tighten properly.

I used the roll pins the second time when I changed to a front mount brake handle.

Much better..

.

sjhark · 08-06-2017, 12:04 PM

I just finished this job last week. I took a pair of Crescent brand slip joint pliars and adjusted them so they clamped against the head of the rivet and the opposite side of the fork, with the handles almost closed. I then clamped the handles together with a pair of vice grips and used a hammer and large center punch to spread the end of the rivet. Worked like a charm.
Old combat adage: if it looks stupid, but it works, it's not stupid!

1955cj5 · 08-06-2017, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjhark

I just finished this job last week. I took a pair of Crescent brand slip joint pliars and adjusted them so they clamped against the head of the rivet and the opposite side of the fork, with the handles almost closed. I then clamped the handles together with a pair of vice grips and used a hammer and large center punch to spread the end of the rivet. Worked like a charm.
Old combat adage: if it looks stupid, but it works, it's not stupid!

The factory must have had a tool like your pliar/vice-grip combo. Maybe more like a vice-grip with a forked jaw to clamp the rivets tight before setting...

Dick M · 08-06-2017, 01:49 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Place a punch in the hollow end and roll it around to make the hollow end larger..

2manycars · 08-06-2017, 02:08 PM

Hardened split pins (sometimes called roll pins) work the best. Easy to install and a tight fitting fork when done.

Dave1931Pickup · 08-06-2017, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

I did it the first time with rivets, but they never would tighten up...always a little movement in the shift forks.

I made a bucking tool that held the heads and fit tightly in the case, but it seemed the available rivets did not have a deep enough recess in the end to allow them to tighten properly.

I used the roll pins the second time when I changed to a front mount brake handle.

Much better..

.

I agree about the available rivets not having deep enough recess to tighten up. I'm sure that the factory had a special tool like sjhark made.

Thanks everyone, I'm switching to 3/16" X 1-7/8" roll pins.

Tom Wesenberg · 08-06-2017, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dick M

Place a punch in the hollow end and roll is around to make the hollow end larger..

Yep, that's how I do them, and it works great.

Russ/40 · 08-06-2017, 10:50 PM

I decided on roll pins. Not 100% comfortable with that, I ran safety wire through the roll pins and around the fork shaft. They weren't going anywhere.

31 RPU · 08-07-2017, 04:20 AM

Russ,
I did the same thing.
I took a dermal tool and made a groove on the opposite side of the split in the pin for the safety wire to lie in.

Russ/40 · 08-07-2017, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 31 RPU

Russ,
I did the same thing.
I took a dermal tool and made a groove on the opposite side of the split in the pin for the safety wire to lie in.

Even better yet! Great idea!

Dave1931Pickup · 08-08-2017, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave1931Pickup

I agree about the available rivets not having deep enough recess to tighten up. I'm sure that the factory had a special tool like sjhark made.

Thanks everyone, I'm switching to 3/16" X 1-7/8" roll pins.

I screwed up. The proper roll pin is 3/16" X 7/8" not 1-7/8".
Sorry for the bad info, Dave

08-06-2017, 10:04 AM	#1
Dave1931Pickup Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Posts: 167	Transmission Shift Fork Pins Hi Everyone, What is a good method for backing up the head of the shifting fork pins for upsetting the hollow head. So far I have tried various chisels, screwdrivers and chunks of steel only to find that I need six hands and more patience. Also after they are upset it appears that they would still be loose. Is that right. I've heard a few people say to use roll pins, but I want to do it the way Henry did it. Thanks for your help, Dave

08-06-2017, 11:12 AM	#2
Brian T Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: San Diego,Ca Posts: 1,377	Re: Transmission Shift Fork Pins Hi Dave, I have been there a few times with success, but find the roll pins a better option, do not remember the size. __________________ Nothing can be made foolproof, ---- fools are ingenious bastards.

08-06-2017, 11:40 AM	#3
1955cj5 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 1,578	Re: Transmission Shift Fork Pins I did it the first time with rivets, but they never would tighten up...always a little movement in the shift forks. I made a bucking tool that held the heads and fit tightly in the case, but it seemed the available rivets did not have a deep enough recess in the end to allow them to tighten properly. I used the roll pins the second time when I changed to a front mount brake handle. Much better.. . __________________ Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 Last edited by 1955cj5; 08-06-2017 at 11:55 AM.

08-06-2017, 12:04 PM	#4
sjhark Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Brandon, SD Posts: 74	Re: Transmission Shift Fork Pins I just finished this job last week. I took a pair of Crescent brand slip joint pliars and adjusted them so they clamped against the head of the rivet and the opposite side of the fork, with the handles almost closed. I then clamped the handles together with a pair of vice grips and used a hammer and large center punch to spread the end of the rivet. Worked like a charm. Old combat adage: if it looks stupid, but it works, it's not stupid! __________________ If earthworms had machine guns, we'd all be in trouble!

08-06-2017, 01:49 PM	#6
Dick M Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ukiah, CA Posts: 477	Re: Transmission Shift Fork Pins Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Place a punch in the hollow end and roll it around to make the hollow end larger.. Last edited by Dick M; 08-07-2017 at 09:52 AM.

08-06-2017, 02:08 PM	#7
2manycars Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern CT Posts: 2,732	Re: Transmission Shift Fork Pins Hardened split pins (sometimes called roll pins) work the best. Easy to install and a tight fitting fork when done. __________________ Bill www.brauchauto.com

08-06-2017, 10:50 PM	#10
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Transmission Shift Fork Pins I decided on roll pins. Not 100% comfortable with that, I ran safety wire through the roll pins and around the fork shaft. They weren't going anywhere.

08-07-2017, 04:20 AM	#11
31 RPU Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 182	Re: Transmission Shift Fork Pins Russ, I did the same thing. I took a dermal tool and made a groove on the opposite side of the split in the pin for the safety wire to lie in.