51 F-1 steering box adjustment?

[FordCustom]

Is there a tech page, or someone's blog or whatever that explains how to do this, with pictures? My steering wheel has 5-6 inches of slop in it. It became apparent how bad it is when I started taking the front wheels off to install a 3" drop axle. If you grab a brake drum and "turn" it left and right, there's a bunch of movement before the steering arm begins to move the steering wheel. This can be duplicated with the wheels on, with the truck on the ground. The box will not move the pitman until the steering wheel moves 5-6 inches in either direction. I would rather try adjusting it before spending big bucks (to me) on a new steering box.

[john in illinois]

Here is a good tech page. It tells how to adjust. That is a lot of play to adjust it seems to me.

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...stmt-notes.htm

John

[CSArno]

yeah, thats a ton of play. just had to rebuild the steering box in my '49 F1. used the instructions on vanpelts that john gave. it requires some patience. just make sure the steering is as close to center as you can possibly get it. use the spoke on the steering wheel to count revolutions from one side to the other. Then put steering half way between that. you made need a steering box rebuild if its adjusted in all the way. worst part of that for me was getting the darn steering wheel off to take the steering box out. i used the kit that Macs sells. came with a new steering shaft with worm gear installed. had to make a few adjustments to things in the new kit.. not too bad.

[JSeery]

The play could be in a lot of other components as well. A lot of small movements add up, need to checks for any excess movement at king pins, tie rod ends, drag link, etc.

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by JSeery

The play could be in a lot of other components as well. A lot of small movements add up, need to checks for any excess movement at king pins, tie rod ends, drag link, etc.

X2

Have some one wiggle the steering wheel through the slack part of the steering wheel swing. Your job is to put hands on each joint in the system. If there is wear, a finger can tell the slop.

Karl

[FordCustom]

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I am pretty sure it's in the box, as all of the play is happening before the pitman arm even moves. I turn the wheel one way, and a few inches until the pitman arm starts moving, likewise the other direction. The tie rods king pins etc will be changed anyway. The left pin is pretty tight, but the right king pin is blown out. 1/8 of an inch or more up and down movement at the end of the spindle.

I just put the first coat of flat black Rustoleum on the 3 inch drop axle. A friend knows someone that can press the bushings and hone them to the right size, etc. The backing plates will get cleaned up and painted, as well as the hubs.

I got lucky that a fresh brake job was performed soon before the truck was parked a long time ago. All of the hardware and wheel cylinders are new. The wheel cylinder seals and shoes will be replaced. They could be awesome, but technology has moved a lot on shoe material etc, and 25-30 year old bonded shoes that have been sitting in a damp barn is not something I want to trust.

Thanks for the help! Much appreciated!

[FordCustom]

That's a 64 MG block in the background, not a flathead.