Pulling flathead away from Trans

[Bulligen]

I am taking a flathead out of a 34 truck. Everything is disconnected, I have done this many times before , however this time is will not release. The steady rods are disconnected all the bolts are out ect. I have inserted screwdrivers between the block and trans and it has come away about a quarter inch. I can pry on them and the gap will open up another 1/4 of an inch or so but flexes right back. I am thinking the input shaft is rusted to the clutch disk and that is where the flex is coming from? Maybe I can get my torch in there through the inspection hole and warm things up. Anyone else have this happen?

[51 MERC-CT]

Are you prying from at least two opposite sides at the same time?

[pooch]

Push the clutch pedal and see if it moves out any more.

[Brian]

Happened to me once; spigot bearing was frozen on spigot. I managed to undo the six pressure plate bolts through the inspection 'window'[with some difficulty], and levered the engine forward, pulling the spigot bearing out of the flywheel. Good luck!

[ponymare]

You didn't say, but if its been sitting a long time the input shaft may be rusted to the clutch dick splines.

[vulture]

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Rodger, I have a bunch of die bars and does sound like the clutch plate is stuck to the shaft. Can you spray a bit of PB blaster in on it. If you need a hand I can shoot over whit the bars

[Glenn Thoreson]

Roy, that's not an uncommon problem with cars that have sat for many years. Though it needs to come straight back to avoid binding, a bunch of wiggling back and for and up and down while pulling can often help scrape the rust off the front of the shaft. I hope the clutch lining isn't rusted to the flywheel. Also common. If so and you have to remove the pressure plate bolts to pull it out, it won't. Then the real fun begins. There's something to be said for a few ounces of C-4.

[Bulligen]

Hi Guys, Yes, the engine has been sitting for 20 years or so and is stuck hard so that doesn't help things. I have shot some PB Blaster in through the inspection plate so I will let it sit for a while. I have pry bars at three different points with pressure on them so If I have any luck it will come loose. Thank you all for your suggestions !! (I may take you up on your offer John, We will see how it goes this week.)

[fordwife]

Wire the clutch pedal down to the floor and keep it that way for a few days while you keep it soaked with penetrant.

[Bubsyouruncle]

Isn't it a wonderful thing to have problem with something back when Harry was in the White House would never happen.

Enjoy it!

[cas3]

get yer two screwdrivers in there, and put the trans in high gear, then get some big guys and rock the truck back and forth. i would use a skidsteer if you have that, but just some shock with pressure from the drivers may do it

[Glenn Thoreson]

Roger, I'm sorry I called you Roy in my last post. I had another fellow on my mind and my brain fell out on the floor.

[cas3]

well, my brain must be on the floor too, thinking some more got the brain past the bad syncro and in to gear, if you are trying to pull the trans, that means you have the drive line disconnected, or maybe even have the motor and trans out, whatever, i am going to stick with my story and say it needs violence ! so, back to my plan, get your screwdrivers in and rock the trans output shaft back and forth with a socket on a long breaker bar. its 1 1/16, i think, that fits the shaft after the U joint is off. back and forth and then POP i think is what you'll get

[Bulligen]

Thank you! It looks like the clutch disk is rusted at the splines and does not want to slide off. I am going to give it a few days and then use some heat!

[Jay in Mass]

Be careful!

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Bulligen

Thank you! It looks like the clutch disk is rusted at the splines and does not want to slide off. I am going to give it a few days and then use some heat!

Hey Roger,
In addition to copious application of rust removers, I'd rig something between the two surfaces, on BOTH SIDES , to keep pressure on. If you can rig up devices that you can increase such pressure slightly each day, if rust will be overcome as it dissolves . Good luck

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Hey Roger,
In addition to copious application of rust removers, I'd rig something between the two surfaces, on BOTH SIDES , to keep pressure on. If you can rig up devices that you can increase such pressure slightly each day, if rust will be overcome as it dissolves . Good luck

Hardwood wedges at 4 or more points. Bang bang bang bang, wait, let soak, repeat. Worked for me last year.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I would suggest pulling the engine and transmission out of the truck and set it down on the garage floor. I think this will make it less complicated to work on and get these apart. The last one I had stuck like this, no amount of penetrating oil, rust remover, or prying between the bell housings would get these apart. Rather than break a casting, I found a way to get a socket with extension and ratchet on the pressure plate bolts, and take those out. After the transmission separated from engine, I had to deal with getting the splined clutch disk off the trans input shaft. After cleaning the rust build up off the splined input shaft, I was able to remove the clutch disk and pressure plate.

[Bulligen]

Yes guys , I did set up my pry bars so there is constant pressure ! I would try to reach the presure plate bolts however the engine is seized tight, If I am lucky , i might get two of them as that is all I can reach through the inspection hole. I will keep trying. It is a shame as the engine is a standard bore 59A with the factory relief in the valve areas.

[JM 35 Sedan]

If you had the engine and transmission out of the truck, you could probably turn the transmission around enough to remove all the pressure plate bolts, even with the engine seized, and separate the trans from the engine.