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Old 02-14-2018, 04:13 PM   #21
Ron52
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

Curtis I am going to have to study that subject Pills, to properly understand the movement there. That could explain why the Brake adj wedge was all the way in at the 15% arm position and no brakes. Seems like the best place to start. does it sound like I need more Pills?
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Old 02-14-2018, 04:35 PM   #22
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

Ron, I am far from being an expert but just finished a complete rebuild on the brakes on my 30 coupe. I did replace everything on all four wheels, and after the rebuild I have excellent brakes. One thing that I did that I did not see mentioned above, unless I missed it, was to adjust the clevises on the ends of the brake rods on all four wheels, so the pin will just slips in when the slack is pulled out of the actuating arm. This allows all four brakes, when adjusted correctly, to be applied evenly. Good luck
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Old 02-14-2018, 05:37 PM   #23
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

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Curtis I am going to have to study that subject Pills, to properly understand the movement there. That could explain why the Brake adj wedge was all the way in at the 15% arm position and no brakes. Seems like the best place to start. does it sound like I need more Pills?
The "pills" are little cup-like shims that go in that dimple in the top of the actuating wedge where the brake rod fits. And yes, they could help you get to the 15% forward lean you want. One single pill might well be enough. You don't want a bunch of them in there. Check to see if there is already something in there. Use an ice pick. They are sometimes hard to detect since they fit pretty snug.
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:15 PM   #24
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

Andrews discusses pills (shims) on p. 1-39 of the red book.
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:32 PM   #25
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

Start by putting the same linings on the front, and the same style on the rear, instead of 4 on one side and 4 on the other side. Woven grip better, so the car will pull to the side with woven linings as they are now set up.


Go by the brake adjustment procedure in the SERVICE BULLETINS, and you should have good brakes if the parts aren't worn out.


Where are you located?
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:44 PM   #26
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X2 what Tom said. Do you have steel drums or cast iron, have the brake roller
tracks been rebuilt, have the brake shoes been centered??

Bob
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:19 PM   #27
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In his first post he says he's in Italy.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:24 PM   #28
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Do a ford barn search for brake adjustment and setup .I have posted this operation dozens of times .
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Old 02-15-2018, 01:16 AM   #29
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Default Re: 1930 Breaks

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You are going to have to take your drums to a machine shop and have their diameter measured. It was originally 11 inches. Cast iron drums were 11.060 max but I don't remember seeing a number for the steel drums.
Charlie Stephens
According to the Service Bulletins, page 514, "Under no circumstances must any attempts be made to turn down brake drums..." Maybe that is why you don't see any numbers for steel drums.
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Old 02-15-2018, 01:35 AM   #30
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All break parts in the hub were replaced from what I see on the front. However, one never really knows until the Drums are pulled and looked at. Appears all the Pins have been replaced, they look new on the rods.
Ron, please do not confuse “replaced”with “rebuilt”. Simply replacing parts in the brake system does not necessarily make the system effective, nor rebuilt. It is a complex mechanical problem, and takes very thorough work to make the brake system truly “rebuilt” and safe. It can be done, and is usually within the scope of the abilities for most owners. Just make sure everything is fit tight and correctly.
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Old 02-15-2018, 12:31 PM   #31
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T B lots of slack in the right actuating arm front. To remove all the slack makes the arm straight up and down, however the book calls for 15%. Any comment please anyone..
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Old 02-15-2018, 12:42 PM   #32
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T B lots of slack in the right actuating arm front. To remove all the slack makes the arm straight up and down, however the book calls for 15%. Any comment please anyone..
Have you read Andrews’s chapter on brakes in his red book yet? You said you had it, I believe. Many of your questions are addressed there, along with step by step instructions.
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Old 02-15-2018, 01:21 PM   #33
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T B lots of slack in the right actuating arm front. To remove all the slack makes the arm straight up and down, however the book calls for 15%. Any comment please anyone..


If the rods are worn down, then I'd buy new ones.
That's all it took to make my levers slant forward at 15*.
1 or 2 pills in the wedge can also make the lever slant forward.
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Old 02-16-2018, 04:26 PM   #34
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I can see from all the assistance that I got, that I just have to pull all parts and check, Check and Check again. I had less sponge action after adjusting the acuating Bar on the front. Brakes stop better, but there is still that moment of sponge feeling and I think it will new resolved with centering of the breaks, at least checking this condition and Operating Pin needs Pills. Thanks to everyone who responded to my need. Now I will get to work in the Les Andrews book and examining all issues. Hope I have the ability to understand this hobby. Sure would not like to let this thing beat me.
thanks again.
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Old 02-16-2018, 06:00 PM   #35
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You’ll be fine. Read the books suggested, go slowly, ask questions about parts you don’t understand. Thousands of us, maybe all of us, have been right where you are now. The Model A is very simple, but don’t think that means it does not require careful work.
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Old 02-16-2018, 06:25 PM   #36
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I can see from all the assistance that I got, that I just have to pull all parts and check, Check and Check again. I had less sponge action after adjusting the acuating Bar on the front. Brakes stop better, but there is still that moment of sponge feeling and I think it will new resolved with centering of the breaks, at least checking this condition and Operating Pin needs Pills. Thanks to everyone who responded to my need. Now I will get to work in the Les Andrews book and examining all issues. Hope I have the ability to understand this hobby. Sure would not like to let this thing beat me.
thanks again.
It looks like more of a job than it really is. Just take your time, and no short cuts.

Once your worn part problems are taken care of. The adjusting will seem easy.

No short cuts, check everything. These cars were made to be serviced by there owners. 90 years of use, Henry had it right. Enjoy.
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Old 02-17-2018, 04:44 PM   #37
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

If all else fails, send everything to Randy Gross. You will get back what looks like factory new. Still need to have everything else up to snuff though.
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Old 02-17-2018, 06:24 PM   #38
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

Ron- Did you replace the drums? The new cast iron drums are much better than the old steel drums. Also another thing to check is your brake rods. bent rods will cause spongy brakes. Don't ask how I know this.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:28 PM   #39
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

Are your brake rods STRAIGHT?
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:31 PM   #40
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Yes- are your break rods straight? I had one with a slight bend in it. ( don't know how it got bent) however I adjusted the brakes with the bent rod and didn't notice it until checking the poor braking. the rod would straighten out as the pedal was pressed. This limited the amount of pressure to the shoes.
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