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Old 02-14-2018, 02:18 PM   #1
Ron52
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Default 1930 Brakes

Time to ask the professionals. My Brakes they do not do too well. Press hard there's that moment of sponge like feeling (stepping on a rubber ball) push harder and the brakes slow you down to a stop, which takes too much time. Can't get them to lock up no matter how tight i adjust them. Still that sponge feeling. Tired to adjust by the manual (3 Steps with board), can't seem to get them right. All brakes are new from two years very little miles 500 or so. Over time Went from slow stopping to very little reliability. Any suggestions? check the middle arm where the rods are hooked up to, straight up and down. the front rod arm has a small lean forward. Please make comments, i am a new ford owner and need help. Any and all comments on this subject are welcome. I am in Italy.

Last edited by Ron52; 02-14-2018 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 02-14-2018, 02:24 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1930 Breaks

If your brakes break, that is not good, but if they brake, that is good.
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Old 02-14-2018, 02:31 PM   #3
Ron52
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Default Re: 1930 Breaks

Thanks cpf240 I needed that. Any comments on the issue Brakes?
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Old 02-14-2018, 02:33 PM   #4
Charlie Stephens
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Default Re: 1930 Breaks

How far over are your brake drums? That is the first thing I would suspect. You should put your general location in your profile.

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Old 02-14-2018, 02:42 PM   #5
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Default Re: 1930 Breaks

Charlie, where do I get this information on location of Drums? They do look high.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:01 PM   #6
Curtis in MA
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

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If you have Les Andrew's handbook it tells you the minimum thickness of the drums.
If they are to thin the drum is expanding instead of stopping. Finding this involves taking the drums off and measuring the thickness.
The easier things to check are if all the linkages are tight. When you step on the pedal is the movement taking up slack or moving the brakes. Are the adjustment wedges turned in so the first movement is engaging the brakes.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:11 PM   #7
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

What was actually done on the brakes two years ago? The whole system, or only the linings? With mechanical brakes, everything has to be tight and right.

Also, what is your brake lining? I have found the original woven lining to be more effective than the bonded type.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:22 PM   #8
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

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Originally Posted by 700rpm View Post
What was actually done on the brakes two years ago? The whole system, or only the linings? With mechanical brakes, everything has to be tight and right.

Also, what is your brake lining? I have found the original woven lining to be more effective than the bonded type.
This comment is spot on. If just linings were replaced, you really might not have done very much to improve your brake system.

There are a lot of moving parts, some that could be wornout, in your Model As braking system.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:26 PM   #9
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

I had similar brake issues awhile back. A friend came over and we went completely through the adjustments and now have great braking capabilities... no more gliding through red lights! Take the brake rods loose and see where the position of the levers is, fronts should lean about 15 degrees forward... add 'pills' is necessary to get the correct setting there. Then attach the brake rods and begin adjusting each wheel until yo get some drag. Now begin testing with the step board. It takes awhile and two people make it better. Get them properly adjusted and the will work well.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:28 PM   #10
Ron52
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

curtis I have the Les Andrew"s handbook. I will start with the Pedal movement first. Then I will remove all the Drums and review the brakes. I do know that the shoes are not the same, The right is woven and other side is solid bonded type. Could this make a difference?
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:31 PM   #11
Curtis in MA
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

Yes. They are not the same and will act different but should still stop you.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:32 PM   #12
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

All break parts in the hub were replaced from what I see on the front. However, one never really knows until the Drums are pulled and looked at. Appears all the Pins have been replaced, they look new on the rods.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:46 PM   #13
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

Probably the front Arm may need to be leaned more to the front, may be 5% now, not 15. ABACHMAN what is PILLS? where do they go? I did disconnect the brake rod at that arm point. There was all play in the arm until I moved in from Forward position to about 5% almost straight up. Then and only then could I adjust the brake adjusting wedge from all the way in, back to half way as all the other wheels are. The adj Wedge was all the way in and no breaks. Moved the arm back to almost straight and could get the wheel to lock with the wedge adjuster. Guess I have to go back there again and move the arm back down to 15 % But how do I make the brakes catch at that point?
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:48 PM   #14
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

First step is to take the drums off and look.

Where are the shoes touching, how much of the shoes are touching?

If the shoes are not centered or arched to fit the drums then you will never have full braking.

There are many questions that could be asked. I think pictures of the shoes and drums and such would help people figure out what is going on in there. We would need to see the face of the shoes to see where the contact is.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:50 PM   #15
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

All break parts in the Drum were replaced from what I see on the front. However, one never really knows until the Drums are pulled and looked at. Appears all the Pins have been replaced, they look new on the rods.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:51 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

If you really want to make things right, your going to have to check everything, everything.

Just for conversation, if I had found different style linings on a car, I would assume that other things could have been questionably done.

Also, keep in mind, that there are different views on whether the brake board is the best way to adjust your brakes.

The good thing is that once they are done correctly. They will last a long time.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:56 PM   #17
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

It is too late tonight for pictures. Tomorrow I will take pictures and post them here. I think from what I am getting on here tonight that I need to get that arm at 15% and have some one step on the brake peddle and check if the shoes are moving, then go from there, perhaps I need an adjustment some where on the arm to the brake shoes. Learned that pills need to possibly be added some where on the arm to take up slack to have the brakes move at the 15%?
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:57 PM   #18
Charlie Stephens
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Default Re: 1930 Breaks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron52 View Post
Charlie, where do I get this information on location of Drums? They do look high.
I am not sure I understand your response. What I meant was you should put your general location in your profile so if you live close to some brake experts people can send you to them. You are going to have to take your drums to a machine shop and have their diameter measured. It was originally 11 inches. Cast iron drums were 11.060 max but I don't remember seeing a number for the steel drums.

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Last edited by Charlie Stephens; 02-14-2018 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:57 PM   #19
Curtis in MA
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

In the Bratton's catalogue Pills are called Front Brake Shims.
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Old 02-14-2018, 04:00 PM   #20
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Default Re: 1930 Brakes

Pills go inside the drum between the operating pin and the brake wedge.
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