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02-16-2011, 05:04 PM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 25
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Going 12 VOLT ...........
would like to know what parts to go 12 volt ...
Do I need a differant pulley ?? I know all the light stuff a list would great thanks |
02-16-2011, 05:30 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
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Re: Going 12 VOLT ...........
If you really think you have to, and there is no real reason to do so;
This is from Kens Garage Battery Any good 12 Volt battery will do as long as it will fit your battery box and hold down. I selected a 72 month, 675 cranking amp, universal battery.Generator I installed a GM 63 Amp Alternator with an internal self exciting voltage regulator. The hook up is one wire, the same as the existing generator. You will need to make two small brackets to mount the alternator or you can use two shackle bars and drill out for the proper size bolts. An alternator pulley can be purchased from your friendly Model A parts supplier.Starter No modifications are necessary to the starter. Just touch the pedal and enjoy really fast starts.Ammeter I changed the standard 20 amp ammeter to a 30 amp ammeter as an alternator will peg the standard meter. You must reverse the leads on the ammeter due to the change in polarity of the battery. Your neighborhood Model A parts supplier carries the 30 amp ammeter.Headlights Since I installed an alternator I opted to go all the way for headlights and convert to Halogen bulbs. The conversion is relatively easy. You can purchase a kit to modify your existing reflectors or you can purchase new reflectors with the Halogen sockets installed. You must install an alternator to successfully operate Halogen bulbs.Ignition You could install a 12 volt coil and a resistor to reduce the voltage to the points.Horn Getting the horn to work properly was the most perplexing part of the conversion. I tried several "voltage reducers" from the local parts stores but none could handle the current demands of the Model A horn. I finally purchased a 0 to 2 Ohm variable power resistor with a 100 watt rating from an electronics supply house. I selected a variable resistor in order to optimize the voltage to the horn.Light Bulbs The following bulbs can be used with a 12 volt system: Cowl, Tail, and Dash Lights - #89, 6 cpTurn Signals If you have a Signal-Stat turn signal it will be necessary to change the flasher to a Signal-Stat #180 and the bulb to a #1445.
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02-16-2011, 06:43 PM | #3 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 25
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Re: Going 12 VOLT ...........
Thanks so much
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02-16-2011, 07:07 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,159
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Re: Going 12 VOLT ...........
I know that this statement is not true--"You must install an alternator to successfully operate Halogen bulbs. "
I have had Halogen bulbs for the last 10 years (direct fit bulbs)and my 14 year old battery has only had the original 6V generator to charge it, 50% of my driving is with the headlights on, I never charge my battery other than driving (no tender). I have seen mentioned that a waterpump with "improved" bearings is needed with an alternator because of the smaller pulley requiring more belt tension to prevent slipping ---and I know from looking at cars with alternators that belt slipping on the pulley is a problem ---if light finger pressure on the alt fan can move the pulley on the belt it is slipping and will cause reduced output and short belt life another thing that is needed with a 1 wire alt is a method of disconnecting the battery when stored because the alt always uses electric to keep it ready to charge. I like my reliable 6V system ---it has always worked, cranked fast, and never broke ---no starter drive problems, no belt wear problems and I still have the original april 31 generator and starter. |
02-16-2011, 08:16 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: T(r)aylorville IL
Posts: 150
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Re: Going 12 VOLT ...........
Alternators do not drain the battery. Clocks, radios and phone chargers left plugged in- yes. Alternators- no. I regularly leave my battery cables hooked up all winter long, just to find the battery still fully charged on my A in the Spring. It is true that alternators require a small amount of voltage to begin charging, however this is only while rotating. Not while they sit. Luke
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02-16-2011, 08:32 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 102
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Re: Going 12 VOLT ...........
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"No modifications are necessary to the starter"... It will last for a while and if not run much maybe several years, but using twice the voltage on the coil field and throw out is not a good idea. If you don't have any parts yet, several suppliers have kits with all needed items. ALL include either a voltage reducer or new coil fields for most devices, including the starter. Good luck with whichever path you chose. D |
02-16-2011, 11:43 PM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pittsburgh Pa
Posts: 188
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Re: Going 12 VOLT ...........
Brattons has a voltage reducer that is small enough to fit inside the back of the horn. It is made for this and it works well. Much better than the big clunky one that some vendors sell that mounts on the frame. (cheaper to) I suggest a modern starter drive for 12V. Snyders has them (24.95) and mine workes well. Hope this helps.
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02-17-2011, 11:29 AM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hannibal, Mo.
Posts: 124
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Re: Going 12 VOLT ...........
A six volt starter will work on a twelve volt system...as lone as everything is tuned as it should be. The only problem would be if you had to crank the starter for an extended period of time. I've run a twelve volt system with a six volt starter many times with no problems. Just my experience.
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02-17-2011, 12:09 PM | #9 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: ⓉⒺXⒶⓈ
Posts: 2,047
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Re: Going 12 VOLT ...........
Quote:
The big clunky one is also ok, as long as your alternator is putting out power. If the needle is not on the positive side of the ammeter, your horn sounds like a dying duck.
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