moving radiator to remove water pump

[Dave H]

I need to move the radiator forward at the top in order to remove the water pump. My '31 roadster has dual side mounted spares. Even with a person on each side, the act of removing the hood without scratching the paint or having some other mishap is scary. The side mounts make it very awkward. Should I tie a band around the hood's raised sides first? Or, would it be better to fan the sides outward and have each of us grasp them about half way up? Stand on a milk crate? Rig up a way to suspend it from above? Or?
OR
Should I forget about removing it and suspend just the front of the hood in order to be able to move the radiator forward?
Of course, removing the spares would help a lot, but they have tight fitting painted metal sides in addition to the plated band, and possible paint damage is a consideration here too.
Your experiences will be much appreciated.
Dave H.

[Brother Hesekiel]

I have replaced a water pump without touching the radiator. It helps if you buy the bolts that look like studs.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have removed the hood from the front by putting my arms under the side hinges, then lift and turn half way around and hand it off to someone else. If the front bumper is removed, you can also walk away with it yourself and lay it in the grass. I usually stand it on the back edge.

[Clem Clement]

Put a sheet of cardboard between the rad and the fan incase your hand slips.

[Brentwood Bob]

Do you have an engine hoist? Bob

[Dave H]

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I have the bolts that look like studs and plan to install them. Also have access to an engine hoist, and have a come along too. Just proceeding cautiously and listening to suggestions, don't want to mess up. Thanks for the helpful ideas. Dave H.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Remove the 3 hood hinge pins & remove/install it, one piece at a time, EASY!!
My Mamma taught me that, REALLY! Years ago, after painting my disassembled hood, I was fretting about how to get it on without screwing it up, & Mamma made the one piece at a time suggestion!
Bill W.

[springerpete]

Tom's advice is good. A second person is a great help. Then loosen rad support rods, loosen top radiator hose and you'll have no problem getting the fan and pump off.

[1931 flamingo]

I recently did this by myself WITHOUT removing the hood. Cut a piece of wood (furring strip size or 1/2 by 3 or 4) long enough to support front of hood. Insert board after removing (just pull out) radiator support rods, loosen hose clamp. Pull radiator forward. Now with the board supporting the hood it can be opened and w/pump replaced. As Clem suggested, put a piece of card board between pump and radiator.

Paul in CT

[green30coupe]

I also do it Tom's way. Suggest putting old blankets (or mover's blankets from Harbor Freight) over spares, tank/cowl, headlights and radiator shell for insurance against scratching. I made a prop to hold the rods and hood up to facilitate moving the radiator forward without removing the hood, but prefer to get the hood off and out of the way.

[Dave H]

Paul, I like your approach best. It fits in with my idea of just suspending the front of the hood. I Think I'll use a 1 x 2 across the support rods near the firewall and attach a 1/2 x 3 long strip to it perpendicularly, with padding, and a coupe layers of wide masking tape on the radiator shell to protect it where it contacts. I'll have the option of suspending the long strip from above if it seems necessary.
Thanks Clem for your suggestion, and good luck this week.
Dave

[oldscout]

If you have a license plate mounted to the head light bar, cover the brackets with something, before you tip the radiator foward. Ask me how I found that out!

[nickair]

If you want more room you may take the four bolts out, holding the headlight bar. Use a bungee cord or rope to wrap around bar so it stays relatively in the same position. Use towels at grill shell and headlight bar contact points. Then you will be able to move the radiator assembly forward a few more inches without doing any other steps. Very simple way to save any radiator dents. As said, definitely use two sheets of cardboard to protect the expensive radiator.

[Terry,NJ]

Have you checked the type of bolts you have on the pump? Perhaps you don't have to remove it. I would replace the studs with these bolts if they are not of this kind. These "bolts"are made to look like the studs and nuts. You must unscrew one of them to see. If the stud comes out with the nut, then you have them. You still have to get the impeller out, but you have a lot more wiggle room to do it.
Terry

[BlueSunoco]

Dave, before you actually take the hood 'off' try loosening the support rods and just tip the radiator forward a hair. We did that on our '30 and the pump and fan came right out. Worth a try just take it slow.

[tbirdtbird]

if you have the dreaded studs in the pump mount, you can double nut them, and back the studs out that way. Once the pump is out, grind some off the corners of the impellor vanes.....1) to clear the head easier for removal next time (there will be a next time) and 2) pump is too exuberant anyway....pushes too much water

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Dog here,
I didn't have "dubble nuts" to use on the studs, so's I jist used thet tiny pipe wrench thet has a bent handle, frum sumbody usin' a CHEATER pipe on it! And, please don't grind the impeller goodie, jist poke a 160 thermostat in the upper hose.
Buster T.

[nickair]

As Bill said above, am doing the new water pump with a thermostat in the upper hose.