'40 Rear End Rebuild

[Bob G/Spanaway]

I'm going to rebuild my '40 coupe rear end.
All the info I've found doesn't talk about setting the pinion in or out to get a good tooth contact pattern with the ring gear.
Should I expect the new bearings to be exactly the same as the old ones so no adjustment is required? (hard to believe)
Will I just have to set the backlash with gasket thicknesses?
Thanks in advance for any help.

[Ken/Alabama]

That's correct. Use gaskets to set the backlash. Usually a .010 on each side will be very close. I would not use anything other than N.O.S. Ford or genuine Timken bearings and races . On the front pinion bearing it needs to be a slip fit onto the pinion , if it's snug or tight it will cause problems trying to achieve the correct preload on the pinion bearings. Can be corrected using a flapper wheel on the ID of the bearing (I seal the bearing up with duct tape to keep grit out of it) and polish the pinion shaft. With the pinion and bearings installed in the banjo, tighten the nut untill it has a stiff drag on it. Then clamp the banjo straight up in the vise via the pinion splines. With both hands spin the banjo housing hard. When the preload is good it should only make one round. Then lock it down.

[RobR'35]

12 - 17 inch pounds is the spec. on new bearing if u have an inch pound type torque wrench. The dial or bar type torque wrench work the best. The click type make it tougher to achieve.

[Bob G/Spanaway]

Thanks for the help guys!

[fortyonerag]

I found the Tardel guide very helpful when I rebuilt the diff on my 41

[JM 35 Sedan]

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Do a search here and maybe the HAMB on "Banjo Rebuild" and all sorts of helpful information will come up. There are several online articles that will be very good reads. I hear the Tardel Book does not give details on setting shims/gaskets for back lash.