The Ford Barn

Cider Mill · 05-11-2012, 06:29 AM

Recently a friend helped me change the bands in my 15. We took the hogs gead off to get it done (no quick change bands). When we put it back together, we put new gaskets in. I tightened up the hogs head and drove the car for a mile or 2. It was leaking oil from around the hogs head mostly where it goes through the firewall. When it cooled, I tightened all bolts as tight as I dear to, but it still drips oil about 1 drip every 10 seconds. Any ideas of how to fix it? All bolts are very tight now.

yachtsmanbill · 05-11-2012, 08:09 AM

It now needs a fix after the fact. Mine did the same thing. Take a small brush and wash it well with gunk degreaser. Then a good rinse with brake cleaner. Then smear a nice bead of permatex "Ultra Black" sealant into the joint and finish off with a wetted finger tip... Looks perfect and no runs, no leaks, no errors! Dont forget the corners! You did install a new felt strip didnt you? ws

Cider Mill · 05-11-2012, 12:34 PM

OK, thanks for the tip. Yup, i did install a new felt strip.

James Rogers · 05-15-2012, 06:49 AM

I have found, if I coat the felt with RTV before I install the hogshead, leaks are minimal from this area.

[email protected] · 05-15-2012, 09:42 AM

Thanks for the tip. I'm worried that this area is the one place I could end up oozing oil.

tmodelman · 05-15-2012, 04:17 PM

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The corner of the hogshead is always an issue. Ford Service says to lay a piece of candle wicking at the corners to forestall leaks.

Over the years the fix for me has been to soak the felt seal in varnish, dip it in the can, then squeeze out excess with dispo gloved fingers. Let tacky dry.

Then cut the gaskets to the corner up close and snug with no overlaps to allow seepage. Lay the varnished soaked felt down to the edge of the pan gasket. Then add a bead of silicone black sealant right at the corner.

The hogshead will then squish the felt and ooze out the varnish to seal, and the silicone dab will seal the corners.

jboggess · 05-15-2012, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

It now needs a fix after the fact. Mine did the same thing. Take a small brush and wash it well with gunk degreaser. Then a good rinse with brake cleaner. Then smear a nice bead of permatex "Ultra Black" sealant into the joint and finish off with a wetted finger tip... Looks perfect and no runs, no leaks, no errors! Dont forget the corners! You did install a new felt strip didnt you? ws

This is great adive, it has worked on my 13 T perfect!

yachtsmanbill · 05-15-2012, 06:11 PM

I usually have pretty good luck, making sure the pan rail is flat etc., but the Pollinator had a few gushers under the pedals and I sure didnt want to take it apart again. I find now the only leak left is THROUGH the Mag plug ('26) like the insulator may be cracked. Gonna fill that one with some liquid epoxy after a good washing!
Re: Macks method: That really sounds like a pretty comprehensive method, but have you tried the new anaerobic sealants yet? Just like a jelled (sp) Locktite, it cures in the abscense of air. Six months later the air exposed stuff can be wiped of, but the stuff that filled the joint has turned into plastic. The jointed stuff cures in a few hours! I had to sell the management at the power plant on that versus RTV on steam equipment. Once impressed, thats all they bought! ws

John Otis · 05-15-2012, 06:33 PM

I always used old fashioned Bulls Eye shellac, thetype made from beetles and not the synthetic crap. I never had an oil leak in this area after some old timer pointed out to me that this was the simple and proven solution. I am sure there are better materials available now but this ALWAYS worked with nary a drip.

05-11-2012, 06:29 AM	#1
Cider Mill Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Shelton, CT Posts: 339	oil leak Recently a friend helped me change the bands in my 15. We took the hogs gead off to get it done (no quick change bands). When we put it back together, we put new gaskets in. I tightened up the hogs head and drove the car for a mile or 2. It was leaking oil from around the hogs head mostly where it goes through the firewall. When it cooled, I tightened all bolts as tight as I dear to, but it still drips oil about 1 drip every 10 seconds. Any ideas of how to fix it? All bolts are very tight now.

05-11-2012, 08:09 AM	#2
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: oil leak It now needs a fix after the fact. Mine did the same thing. Take a small brush and wash it well with gunk degreaser. Then a good rinse with brake cleaner. Then smear a nice bead of permatex "Ultra Black" sealant into the joint and finish off with a wetted finger tip... Looks perfect and no runs, no leaks, no errors! Dont forget the corners! You did install a new felt strip didnt you? ws

05-11-2012, 12:34 PM	#3
Cider Mill Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Shelton, CT Posts: 339	Re: oil leak OK, thanks for the tip. Yup, i did install a new felt strip.

05-15-2012, 06:49 AM	#4
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: oil leak I have found, if I coat the felt with RTV before I install the hogshead, leaks are minimal from this area. __________________ http://www.model-a-ford-4bangers.com/

05-15-2012, 09:42 AM	#5
[email protected] Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 937	Re: oil leak Thanks for the tip. I'm worried that this area is the one place I could end up oozing oil. __________________ It's 110 miles to Chicago We've got half a pack of cigarettes It's dark And we're wearing sunglasses Let's go.

05-15-2012, 06:11 PM	#8
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: oil leak I usually have pretty good luck, making sure the pan rail is flat etc., but the Pollinator had a few gushers under the pedals and I sure didnt want to take it apart again. I find now the only leak left is THROUGH the Mag plug ('26) like the insulator may be cracked. Gonna fill that one with some liquid epoxy after a good washing! Re: Macks method: That really sounds like a pretty comprehensive method, but have you tried the new anaerobic sealants yet? Just like a jelled (sp) Locktite, it cures in the abscense of air. Six months later the air exposed stuff can be wiped of, but the stuff that filled the joint has turned into plastic. The jointed stuff cures in a few hours! I had to sell the management at the power plant on that versus RTV on steam equipment. Once impressed, thats all they bought! ws

05-15-2012, 06:33 PM	#9
John Otis Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Vermont and Florida Posts: 188	Re: oil leak I always used old fashioned Bulls Eye shellac, thetype made from beetles and not the synthetic crap. I never had an oil leak in this area after some old timer pointed out to me that this was the simple and proven solution. I am sure there are better materials available now but this ALWAYS worked with nary a drip.