Rear spring spreader

[Terry, NJ]

I pooh poohed the danger involved until Itook the last sheackle out and It was Ppttwwanggggg! The spreader wound out in my wife's forsythia bush at least ten feet away. I Hhmmmed quite a few times wondering just what it would have done to my leg if it had contacted my shins. My spreader was made from 3/4" sched 40 water pipe. I had welded a long 3/4 - 10 bolt inside. It was bent approximately 20deg from straight. Try that with a hammer and see what kind of force it takes.
From this, I have concluded; All nuts and bolts should be grade 8.
Part of the problem was no square faces on the contact points. Face them off in a lathe.
Keep bolts dead center during welding. Shim them if you have to. Keep your forces in line. Mine were not.
Loosen the center bolt as much as you dare. Replace it with an even longer one, Grade 8. This lessens the spring pressure a small amount, but the percentages are in your favor.
Chain it down! I welded eyes for chain to mine to keep it from going so far. I will chain it down to keep it captive.
Put a piece of plywood between you and it as a sheild. These things are powerful. Don't underestimate them.
Terry

[V4F]

ive changed several . they ARE dangerous . good spreader , help if ya got it & take your time .....................

[zzlegend]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

The spring spreader in the photo is the less expensive version of the ones most suppliers offer. This one does not have the spring loaded retainers and the thrust bearings. They were originally sold by AC&R for between $60 and $85. and it is just as safe.

I also have a home made one similar to the one in the posted web site. By the time I obtained all the material and had it welded it cost as much as a ready made one. Whatever the price, a quality made rear spring spreader is cheap insurance.

Whatever you do, please do not attempt to use a pipe and an all-thread against a banjo bolt, it is extremely dangerous and a good way to get yourself killed. If the pipe slips off the bolt head it will launch like a medieval cross bow.

Anyone who owns a Model A and does most of their own work should own a quality rear spring spreader. You will find you will use it more than once.

Tom Endy

I have this exact same spreader. Have used it about 7 or 8 times with no problem. I do coat the threads with anti seize as not to gald the nuts and threaded shank.

[Charlie Stephens]

Join a local Model A club and convince them that the club should buy a quality spring spreader to have available to loan to members (or maybe rent to members to help recover the costs). If they buy the spreader start on a portable engine hoist and rear hub puller. All of these are expensive tools that are needed once every several years by the average Model A owner.

Charlie Stephens

[sturgis 39]

btt

[sturgis 39]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

btt

[400A-64]

I have a very heavy Rear Spreader that was given to me years ago by a fella that worked on Lincoln Continenals (Pre WWII) It has a #307 and Nat'l Jack on the main casting. The newer lighter ones may be easier to handle. I strongly urge everyone to CHAIN WRAP the rear springs as a safety measure.
Bruce Davis [email protected]

[sturgis 39]

btt

[sturgis 39]

btt

[TDO]

I just made one today , the only difference is I used 5" channel insted of the 3" , just because thats what I had. I just used it, worked great, I also didn't use the thrust bearings, instead of grease, I used anti- seize, It turned very easy.

[Donvito]

Originally Posted by ora masters

how can pipe slip of bolt head

I made the short spreader with 3/4" pipe and 3/4" all-thread. It is just like the "Traveling Rear Spring Spreader" that Mac's sells. I had a chain wrapped around the tool and the axle housing in case it let go. I was installing a rear spring shackle. The head of the banjo bolt did appear to be tweaked when I got done. I was very careful, but I also believe the banjo bolts can snap off under pressure. I will be using the tool to put the other rear shackle on, but I bought some 3/8"x24x5/8" grade 8 bolts. I will use one of those bolts instead of the original. The tool does work very well, with two washers behind the nut, lubed with motor oil. I would only use the full size spreader to remove the spring from the housing, not the short one. I will be welding one of those together next.

[oldmanandakid]

"plenty of grease to lubricate the moving sections"

Can you be specific about where you are applying the grease? Thanks

[Joe K]

I will use one of those bolts instead of the original

Um. Be careful of those banjo bolts. The original bolts are made diametrially a little "large." A lot of restorers attempt to use aftermarket bolts in this position - and end up with oil leaks from the banjo.

The risk here may be one of sideways thrust pulling the replacement bolt physically out of the threaded hole due to incomplete thread engagement.

Maybe better to catch a couple or three bolts in a sector piece made to act as "foot" to your push-rod? That way if one fails (or starts) the others catch it?

FWIW. Your projectile may vary in its target.

Joe K

[Donvito]

Originally Posted by Joe K

Um. Be careful of those banjo bolts. The original bolts are made diametrially a little "large." A lot of restorers attempt to use aftermarket bolts in this position - and end up with oil leaks from the banjo.

The risk here may be one of sideways thrust pulling the replacement bolt physically out of the threaded hole due to incomplete thread engagement.

Maybe better to catch a couple or three bolts in a sector piece made to act as "foot" to your push-rod? That way if one fails (or starts) the others catch it?

FWIW. Your projectile may vary in its target.

Joe K

Joe, you make some very good points. I might just build myself a full size spreader before doing the other shackle. I can easily make one out of the tool that I already have.

[Joe K]

Yeah. I learned about the banjo bolts "the good old fashioned way." And from picking up spots of 300W from my garage floor. Ford made these bolts oversized/overtight to prevent the leak: I still used pipe joint compound when I installed new bona-fide banjo bolts.

OBTW, the two times I have taken down my Model A rear spring I did it by the "weight in the pickup bed" and wood block method. This works but even so one is safest standing in the pickup bed when the hoist is raising the frame/spring clear of the blocks - and one of the blocks suddenly does a pa-twing richochet on the garage floor.

Lotta power there.

Joe K

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by sturgis 39

btt

What does btt even mean ?????

[Joe K]

Means "bump to the top" meaning the originator (or anyone else) is desiring of more input and wants to keep the thread where it can be generally seen.

I like btt perhaps three times. If in three tries, more information is not forthcoming, it is probably best to look elsewhere for a response as those who are reading probably don't know.

Joe K

[chiliman]

check out the restorer arcives a few years back they had plans for one I made one very nice design and hevy duty works well have a blessed day

[Afordman31]

I built this one from Larry Seemann's design

http://www.icehouse.net/overland/springspreader.html

[Richard Wilson]

"How To Restore Your Model A" Volume 3 by MAFCA page 110-111. Complete instructions with blueprint for a heavy duty and safe rear spring spreader.