30 - 31 Coupe Spare Tire Support Bracket

[Kevin in NJ]

Dmaxweb

You have a early repo inner curved panel. You can tell by the wavy edges. None of its shape is correct.

Your rumble lid catch should be held in by countersunk screws so they wont scratch the rumble opening. The bump area looks funny too, like it was damaged and repaired maybe.

The curved inner panel was held on with oval head screws on the front and rear edge and pan head on the side. Likely the side does not match with the original holes and there are no holes in the panel anyway.

Your car is likely put together with various parts that the person had laying around. A lot of people do not know there are 2 types of lids. I did not know that and bought an perfect rumble lid. When I tried to fit it on my 31 I learned about the bump being in the way.

Anyway, the curved inner panel you have is likely going to 'interesting' to get the banana brace to fit and work. The angle of the panel in the photo just does not look right. But that could be the photo angle.

Look under the rumble seat riser, do you have the rumble stop braces in place? If not you will need to add them or the stops will likely cause damage.

So you have a common problem. The rumble is just put together by someone that had no clue and bad parts. One year at Hershey I looked at all the rumble seat cars as I was learning how to set up mine. I found only one car was done properly.

I assume you want functional go have fun in your car. So my recommendations. Look close at the curved panel you have. See if it looks like you can get the banana bracket to fit right to take the bolt at the proper angle. There is a chance you may need to get a new curved inner panel and make adjustments so it works. Keep in mind the rectangular hole needs to be cut into the panel. I would also put some screws along the sides.
Look under for the rumble stop braces and add them if needed. Make sure the ones you have are well screwed in place. The originals were spot welded, but you need function and screws work. I would also change the screws on face of the lid to countersunk so they are less likely to damage the body.

[dmaxweb]

I need to bend the end of the curved brace about 3/8" to match the curve of the inner panel. I understand the brace is forged but I assume using some heat to bend this small amout is OK.

[dmaxweb]

...

[jw hash]

I just check a original, to see what they are made out of. it is cast iron, that did surprise me because ford forged a lot of small parts like that. if you use heat you might be able to bend it without it breaking in too,

[Steve Plucker]

Why ruin it by bending it?

Put some shims in the void area for now till you can find an original pan that will correspond to the original bend!

Pluck

[dmaxweb]

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Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

Dmaxweb

You have a early repo inner curved panel. You can tell by the wavy edges. None of its shape is correct.

Your rumble lid catch should be held in by countersunk screws so they wont scratch the rumble opening. The bump area looks funny too, like it was damaged and repaired maybe.

The curved inner panel was held on with oval head screws on the front and rear edge and pan head on the side. Likely the side does not match with the original holes and there are no holes in the panel anyway.

Your car is likely put together with various parts that the person had laying around. A lot of people do not know there are 2 types of lids. I did not know that and bought an perfect rumble lid. When I tried to fit it on my 31 I learned about the bump being in the way.

Anyway, the curved inner panel you have is likely going to 'interesting' to get the banana brace to fit and work. The angle of the panel in the photo just does not look right. But that could be the photo angle.

Look under the rumble seat riser, do you have the rumble stop braces in place? If not you will need to add them or the stops will likely cause damage.

So you have a common problem. The rumble is just put together by someone that had no clue and bad parts. One year at Hershey I looked at all the rumble seat cars as I was learning how to set up mine. I found only one car was done properly.

I assume you want functional go have fun in your car. So my recommendations. Look close at the curved panel you have. See if it looks like you can get the banana bracket to fit right to take the bolt at the proper angle. There is a chance you may need to get a new curved inner panel and make adjustments so it works. Keep in mind the rectangular hole needs to be cut into the panel. I would also put some screws along the sides.
Look under for the rumble stop braces and add them if needed. Make sure the ones you have are well screwed in place. The originals were spot welded, but you need function and screws work. I would also change the screws on face of the lid to countersunk so they are less likely to damage the body.

1. I have a replacement latch with countersunk screws to put on.
2. The picture of the banana brace in post #8 is a repro aluminum. I now have an original. More on that below.
3. The rumble seat lid stop support braces are present and secured solidly with hex bolts/nuts.
4. The curved inner panel (repro I guess) is held in place fore and aft with round head screws. The sides have screws into the original holes in the side brackets.
5. I drilled a 1-1/4" hole in the curved inner panel. A bolt through this hole fits straight through the vertical spare bracket and into the the spare carrier. The round hole is just big enough to use a socket to tighten the bolt.
6. Now the banana brace. I have a 1/4" thick steel spacer on the big end. This aligns it perfectly with the bolt hole and tight to both the vertical bracket and the top of the curve on the inner panel. However, this results in a 3/8" gap at the small end of the banana. I can use several washers stacked to take up this space and therefore no need to try bending the original steel banana.

I'll get some pictures later today.

[dmaxweb]

Pictures

I plan on using small (#10) hex bolts to secure the banana brace to the inner panel using existing 3 rivet holes with the one on the narrow end going through the washers.

I think this will be quite secure especially considering that it did not have a banana brace at all for who knows how many years.

[Steve Plucker]

I understand that there is a gap between the two braces as to why the spacer, but my question is "why"?...There really should not be?? Kevin?????

Pluck

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by dmaxweb

Pictures

I plan on using small (#10) hex bolts to secure the banana brace to the inner panel using existing 3 rivet holes with the one on the narrow end going through the washers.

I think this will be quite secure especially considering that it did not have a banana brace at all for who knows how many years.

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I think your solution is the best way to go. The most potential stress on the banana brace will be at the thick end where you'll have it flush and firmly attached and on the thin end, even with the washer spacing, it should be more than adequately secured.

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by Steve Plucker

I understand that there is a gap between the two braces as to why the spacer, but my question is "why"?...There really should not be?? Kevin?????

Pluck

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As indicated earlier, on the stock inner curved panels the mounting area for the "banana" bracket is recessed in order for everything to line up with the bolt from the spare tire carrier. The curve of the reproduction panel might be somewhat of a factor in this regard, but the fact that the "banana" mounting area is not recessed on these panels is by far the most significant factor. This applies to all 28-31 Roadsters and 1930-31 Coupes with rumble seats.

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[dmaxweb]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

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I think your solution is the best way to go. The most potential stress on the banana brace will be at the thick end where you'll have it flush and firmly attached and on the thin end, even with the washer spacing, it should be more than adequately secured.

Done. The spare carrier is nice and solid now.
Thanks to all!