Disc Brakes for '55 wagon

[Vombatidae]

I have a '55 Country Sedan with a 272 Y Block and 3-speed column shifter.

The goal is to keep the original look and drivetrain where possible while making it a safer, more comfortable occasional driver.

The power disc brake kits I have seen are these two:

https://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake...2C6FD960D901E2

https://www.autocityclassic.com/full...ada-fdpwr5556/

I'm finding it tough to get enough info to insure they will install without major issues. Does anyone have direct experience with either of these, or another they would recommend?

A particular concern is compatibility with the column shifter - I have seen posts elsewhere that may be an issue, but no real documentation for that.

An electric vacuum pump would also be part of the project - any recommendations?

Finally, is there any other work that should definitely be done at the same time? (e.g. it doesn't particularly need new bushings, but should I do them anyway)

Thanks,
Thomas

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by Vombatidae

I have a '55 Country Sedan with a 272 Y Block and 3-speed column shifter.

The goal is to keep the original look and drivetrain where possible while making it a safer, more comfortable occasional driver.

The power disc brake kits I have seen are these two:

https://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake...2C6FD960D901E2

https://www.autocityclassic.com/full...ada-fdpwr5556/

I'm finding it tough to get enough info to insure they will install without major issues. Does anyone have direct experience with either of these, or another they would recommend?

A particular concern is compatibility with the column shifter - I have seen posts elsewhere that may be an issue, but no real documentation for that.

An electric vacuum pump would also be part of the project - any recommendations?

Finally, is there any other work that should definitely be done at the same time? (e.g. it doesn't particularly need new bushings, but should I do them anyway)

Thanks,
Thomas

Electro-Vac. They work great and are period correct. They came in 12 volt and 6 volt.

Additional reading:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...72#post1236972

[dmsfrr]

Are the master and wheel cylinders leaking? Are the drums warped or worn beyond specs? Old dry-rotted rubber brake hoses? Contaminated brake fluid?
A through inspection followed by general maintenance might improve the braking considerably. These cars do not have self-adjusting brakes like newer cars. And the fluid & rubber parts can easily be decades old.

I'm finding it tough to get enough info to insure they will install without major issues.

I'm sure you've heard the expression: "If it ain't broke don't fix it."
It's a fact that virtually anything you mess with on an old car will cause an unintended consequence or two, or more. And the more you change, the more unpleasant surprises you'll find.
One of the kits doesn't seem to include a proportioning valve, more time & money out-of-pocket.
Depending on the vehicle, some kits require moving the battery, and replacement wheels.

Unless a majority of the existing brake hardware is ruined it might make more sense to save the time and trouble of a disc conversion by getting the existing brakes working as well as they should be.
If you're not Rally driving the car you may find that the stock brakes can be fine.
I sometimes push a couple boundaries when driving my '55 and the drum brakes perform as I expect them too. No compelling reason to change them yet.
.

[KULTULZ]

An electric vacuum pump would also be part of the project - any recommendations?

Why an electric vacuum pump, hot cam?

AND - Read this and see what you think -

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314775

AND THIS - https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313729

[Vombatidae]

It has new (2020) soft lines, wheel cylinders, pads/hardware and master cylinder. full manual, no boost. Pedal feel and travel seem fine to me. Stopping distance from 60 is at least twice that of my full-sized pickup.

The reasons for upgrading are:
- I want to be able to drive it on the interstate in traffic - it's either that or trailer it to backroads somewhere. I understand the braking characteristics, but the other drivers don't.
- My S.O. is petite and isn't comfortable with the amount of pedal pressure required.
- I would like to travel on/around the Blue Ridge in areas where a 7-mile 6% grade is not unusual. Fade would be a huge problem.

[dmsfrr]

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Sounds like most everything was already replaced. Were they all stock style replacement parts or were some of them upgraded and are now potentially mismatched?
IF the single bowl master cylinder was replaced by a dual bowl master cylinder from another vehicle application, was the diameter of the piston in the replacement master cyl accounted for?
It may(?) be a poor choice to work as well as possible with the existing wheel cylinders.
Because... the ratio of the size of the master cyl compared to the size of the wheel cylinders can directly affect braking performance in a significant way.
Or perhaps the length of the push rod from the pedal now needs to be different?

If some of the parts were Made in China that's a downgrade.
Is it possible an incorrect part was supplied to you? A similar recent post had some discussion about placement of the Primary and Secondary brake shoes. Most replacement brake shoes go for "Long Life" not stopping power, this is the opposite of what you need.

I suggest looking for a complete pre-packaged kit with parts matched & designed to work correctly with each other.

[KULTULZ]

The reasons for upgrading are:

- I want to be able to drive it on the interstate in traffic - it's either that or trailer it to backroads somewhere. I understand the braking characteristics, but the other drivers don't.

- My S.O. is petite and isn't comfortable with the amount of pedal pressure required.

- I would like to travel on/around the Blue Ridge in areas where a 7-mile 6% grade is not unusual. Fade would be a huge problem.

All correct and the need for front disc.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Vombatidae

The power disc brake kits I have seen are these two:

https://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake...2C6FD960D901E2

This kit uses GM DI54 CALIPERS. You need to research these things as to STD or METRIC DESIGN (low and/or zero drag), a quality assembly or something off-shore (salvaged from SHERMAN TANKS disabled in KOREA) and if a QUICK TAKE-UP MC is needed.

https://www.autocityclassic.com/full...ada-fdpwr5556/

This kit uses GRANADA SPINDLES, which can cause alignment problems and is not needed (IMO).

Either uses a sliding or floating caliper (GM DI54) which needs regular service (sliding mechanisms).

I'm finding it tough to get enough info to insure they will install without major issues. Does anyone have direct experience with either of these, or another they would recommend?

[KULTULZ]

- A FRONT DISC CONVERSION PRIMER TECH ARTICLE -

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/202...ion?refer=news

[Vombatidae]

OK, here's what I finally ordered:

Wilwood front disc conversion: https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...emno=140-12922
Wilwood 1 1/8 master & prop. valve: https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...o=261-13270-BK
Wilwood 10lb RPV: https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...emno=260-13707
ABS Power Brake 8" dual booster w/ 55 Ford bracket & linkage (no direct link)

I installed a manifold vacuum T today, and the engine is pulling 17" Hg @ approx. 2000 RPM. I've read conflicting stories about whether that is adequate. Opinions?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Vombatidae

OK, here's what I finally ordered:

Wilwood front disc conversion: https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...emno=140-12922

Wilwood 1 1/8 master & prop. valve: https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...o=261-13270-BK

$$$ $$$

Wilwood 10lb RPV: https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...emno=260-13707

ABS Power Brake 8" dual booster w/ 55 Ford bracket & linkage (no direct link)

I installed a manifold vacuum T today, and the engine is pulling 17" Hg @ approx. 2000 RPM. I've read conflicting stories about whether that is adequate. Opinions?

What is the vacuum reading @ idle?

Be sure the engine is in a good state of tune and valves/IGN timing adjusted correctly. If still @ 17Hg at idle, it should be good enough but may not perform as expected. Generally, you want to see 18Hg at minimum. Was the gauge needle steady?

Did ABS offer the booster with a matching cast MC incl RPV?

The adjustable PPV is not meant for the street. Make sure you read entirely/thoroughly how to set one up.

[Vombatidae]

The tune isn't perfect - notably the idle is rich. The vacuum reading fluctuates from 13-17 but settles in to a solid 17 with any throttle at all. There is at least one leaky gasket in the carb, which I suspect may be a Chinese clone of the Holley 94. I am looking hard at putting a 4 bbl intake manifold (ECB 9425 B) and better carb on. The fuel pump also needs to be rebuilt. I will sort that and the timing out while it's up on stands getting the brakes.

I'm aware that an adjustable PV is One More Thing (TM) to possibly get wrong and will be careful. I never found the perfect drop-in solution, but I am more comfortable with the all Wilwood solution - their tech folks sent me some good info. ABS did have a variety of MC/PV/RPV combos to choose from but recommended the Wilwood setup to match the disc brake conversion kit.

[KULTULZ]

ABS did have a variety of MC/PV/RPV combos to choose from but recommended the Wilwood setup to match the disc brake conversion kit.

Now that's something.

No, WILWOOD is as good as it gets. To me, their (this) front disc is extreme good quality as it is an advanced copy of the old KH SYSTEM. And it goes to the OEM SPINDLE which saves you from a spindle change and use of GM parts.

[miker98038]

I think you’ll be happy with a Wilwood set up. I’ve got them on the front of an OT car, rear drums. Car stops fine. In my experience the rear drums must be kept adjusted properly, or the whole system goes out of wack. Been there with Fairlane disc and stock drums on my 55 bird. I never fitted the rear self adjusting mechanism, but down the road that might be worth looking at. Setting the pressure valve to the rear brakes is also a compromise, at least on my bird. The chassis dynamic and proper pressure to the rear vary greatly from dry to wet. My compromise was for dry, and stay home in the rain. (Easy choice in a 55 bird the way they leak). And be very cautious in the wet.

I’ve run power brakes with cams as low as 16”, and that only with a higher idle. I think the vacuum side will be fine.

You mention a “copy” carburetor. I’m not familiar with the ‘94’s used with the loadomatic distributor, but I know they are a matched pair. If you change to a 4 barrel and modern carb, you’ll need a 57 up style distributor. One more thing to check and keep in mind. Your current set up might not be correct. Big deal for ignition timing.

Enjoy the ride, and good luck.

[Patrick brophy]

I bought a front disc setup for my 1957 Thunderbird.

It came with a new master cylinder and an combination valve.

It also had two new ,smaller rear wheel cylinders than the original stock wheel cylinders.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

I bought a front disc setup for my 1957 Thunderbird.

It came with a new master cylinder and an combination valve.

It also had two new ,smaller rear wheel cylinders than the original stock wheel cylinders.

Was the COMBINATION VALVE 'optional' or was it included in the complete kit? Is your kit WILWOOD or the KH STYLE (OEM) retrofit?

[paul2748]

I got a kit from Hill's for discs for my 56 Bird. The combo valve was optional, decided to go with it. More of a pain to install the kit, but brakes work fine so far.

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

I bought a front disc setup for my 1957 Thunderbird.

It came with a new master cylinder and an combination valve.

It also had two new ,smaller rear wheel cylinders than the original stock wheel cylinders.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by paul2748

I got a kit from Hill's for discs for my 56 Bird. The combo valve was optional, decided to go with it. More of a pain to install the kit, but brakes work fine so far.

Yeah, this is the low price spread but is good quality. It uses fabricated caliper mounts to use the FORD OEM KELSEY-HAYES fixed four-piston caliper setup on the stock spindle.

It is an alternative to the WILWOOD SETUP.

[Vombatidae]

Originally Posted by miker98038

You mention a “copy” carburetor. I’m not familiar with the ‘94’s used with the loadomatic distributor, but I know they are a matched pair. If you change to a 4 barrel and modern carb, you’ll need a 57 up style distributor. One more thing to check and keep in mind. Your current set up might not be correct. Big deal for ignition timing.

Enjoy the ride, and good luck.

I haven't dug into the distributor/carb setup yet - but this weekend she goes up on jackstands and the hood comes off for some serious work.

I did get the 4-barrel intake manifold and a Holley 0-8007 390cfm Classic. If the distributor wasn't swapped when the previous owner did the 12v conversion and related work, I'll probably get a PerTronix.

[miker98038]

You wouldn’t swap the distributor on a 12 v conversion, just add the ballast resistor and possibly the coil. If you can’t identify a 55 (and earlier) loadomatic, a 56 dual diagram loadomatic, and a 57 and later distributor (with mechanical advance weights) post a picture of what you’ve got. Starting a new thread on that will get you more responses from people with pictures. They might show up here, but changing the topic like we are somethings doesn’t attract the attention.