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Old 02-07-2016, 12:39 AM   #1
Darrell S
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Angry Cooling Questions

I am wondering about the length of the belt that drives the water pumps and generator on the 48. Last year I installed new belts and the generator/water pump belt seems to short. We had to drop the generator all the way down as low as it will go and then work the belt on with a pry, then raise the generator back up. After tightening things back up we ended up with about 1 and 1/4 inches of play in the belt.

Should a new belt be this tight and how far up on the brackets should the generator be when all is done? I am wondering if this had anything to do with the left pump leaking that is now replaced.

Also I saw a thread on thermostats awhile back. I am looking at my new ones and I don't see place for the air to escape when refilling with coolant. Should I drill a hole in these or what? I'm going to try and attach a picture of the thermostat.
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:00 AM   #2
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

about the thermostats drill 2- 1/.8" holes, you can see where the thermo is crimped together, drill the holes there, half way in on the flat part of the circle, drill the holes, across from each other, if the belt is to tight it will ruin bushings and seals
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:04 AM   #3
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

The fan belt # is, 25-26366. The generator and water pump belt is # 25-24538.
Other members graciously provided these part numbers and I am using them on my 48. They fit well for me. The belts should not be real tight. Others will give you more precise information, but 1 1/4 inches play sounds OK to me.
Here's a picture of where my fan hub is right now. I think my water pump belt could be tightened up a little more.
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:19 PM   #4
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrell S View Post
I am wondering about the length of the belt that drives the water pumps and generator on the 48. Last year I installed new belts and the generator/water pump belt seems to short. We had to drop the generator all the way down as low as it will go and then work the belt on with a pry, then raise the generator back up. After tightening things back up we ended up with about 1 and 1/4 inches of play in the belt.

Should a new belt be this tight and how far up on the brackets should the generator be when all is done? I am wondering if this had anything to do with the left pump leaking that is now replaced.

Also I saw a thread on thermostats awhile back. I am looking at my new ones and I don't see place for the air to escape when refilling with coolant. Should I drill a hole in these or what? I'm going to try and attach a picture of the thermostat.
The stat in your picture has to small of a flow opening to properly cool
the engine in hot weather. G.M.
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Old 02-07-2016, 02:38 PM   #5
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

The original bellows/butterfly thermostat (no longer made) had a bleed hole in the middle of the flap.



The current stock replacement thermostat has this bleed hole to let air through when filling with the "jiggle pin" that closes when water pushes up against it so that no flow can pass.





That thermostat is on the left. A better modern replacement with a much higher flow is the Stant thermostat on the right.




If you look very closely at the edge of the moveable valve plate on the Stant stat you will see a small indentation that allows air to pass through when filling eliminating the need for a bleed hole. Look closely at the edge of your thermostat and see if it has the same indentation. If so, you don't need to drill a hole. If not, I'd drill the smallest hole possible - 1/16" - to let the air through when filling.
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Last edited by Old Henry; 02-07-2016 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 02-07-2016, 02:51 PM   #6
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Here are the instructions for tightening the belt.



The last time I had a mechanic work on my engine he tightened the belt way too tight and it soon burned out the front bearing of my generator. The belts do not need to be very tight.
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Old 02-07-2016, 03:29 PM   #7
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

Of course, what they dont tell you is HOW to move the generator and fan hub upwards against the tension of the belts, and then to be able to tighten the nut and cap screws with your third hand, during the course of which you drop the spanner.......
After years of prying them up with a pry bar and messing up the brake vacuum tube, the ignition wire tube, and scraping the paint off the manifold, I finally figured to run a loop of rope around the generator and lift it with my engine hoist, leaving both hands free to tighten the nut. Ditto for the fan hub. Guess I'm a slow learner.....
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Old 02-07-2016, 05:29 PM   #8
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

The generator is easily lifted up to tighten the belt just right with the left hand and a large adjustable wrench handle wedged between the front of the generator and the intake manifold right next to the generator vertical bracket thus:



You just push down on the end of the wrench with your left hand which lifts the generator up to position as you tighten the bolt securing the generator with your right hand.

That's the hard part. The fan is easily lifted up to tension the belt with your left hand without any leverage while tightening one of its two bolts with your right hand which secures it in place so you can let go of the fan then tighten the other bolt.
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Old 02-07-2016, 08:20 PM   #9
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

One other thing. When you install the thermostat be sure to secure it single strand of stranded wire to keep it from pushing up from the water pressure under it, turning sideways, and becoming a waste.

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Old 02-08-2016, 09:10 AM   #10
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

[QUOTE=Bassman/NZ;1237408]Of course, what they dont tell you is HOW to move the generator and fan hub upwards against the tension of the belts, and then to be able to tighten the nut and cap screws with your third hand, during the course of which you drop the spanner.......

That made the coffee come out my nose. That is my life exactly, except you left out the part where while reaching for the "spanner" you burn your arm on the nearest hot thing causing you to split your head open during the involuntary flinch. Then the f-bombs flit about like butterflies in a spring meadow....
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Old 02-08-2016, 11:42 AM   #11
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

Thanks to all who provided the information, it is well taken. About the belt length, I did order a new one for the pumps from Napa. The belt that is on there is new and it was put on last August or Sept. and ran little after being installed. I got it from one of the suppliers, can't remember which one. When my friend and I installed it we thought it was really hard to get on. The old belts that originally came off were so dry and deteriorated it would have been hard to make a comparison.

This is my first experience with one of these old Fords so I'm learning. Could be a little slow, but learning. I would like to get this old gem on the more reliable side before I'm to old to enjoy it.

I did check the new thermostats in a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer and they do open at 180. They look exactly like the ones that Henry posted, however I don't see the indentation like his show so I will drill the hole. These thermostats came from C&G, would they be to small as stated by G.M. in his post? I have had good results with their parts so far.

Again thanks to all who for the help.
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Old 02-08-2016, 01:11 PM   #12
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

Here is my detailed analysis comparing the current stock replacement thermostat that C&G and others sell with the Stant 14157 thermostat made for the 1990 Subaru Justy that fits the same but passes more water through it: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113366 NAPA sells the same thermostat as THM 111.
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Old 02-08-2016, 02:15 PM   #13
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

Darrell, we installed my new belts last week and struggled for a while the same as you. But finally got them on there. It took longer than expected. My belt was tight getting on there as well. I am installing the same thermostats as Old Henry suggested and using copper wire as well.
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Old 02-08-2016, 02:45 PM   #14
Darrell S
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Originally Posted by dwick01 View Post
Darrell, we installed my new belts last week and struggled for a while the same as you. But finally got them on there. It took longer than expected. My belt was tight getting on there as well. I am installing the same thermostats as Old Henry suggested and using copper wire as well.
I also am going to get the same thermostats as Old Henry and will wire them. The main concern with the belt is that the old one came off without dropping the generator all the way down. It was a Ford script although a repop.
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Old 02-08-2016, 04:06 PM   #15
Darrell S
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Thanks, I read the older posts on this and about your tests and all. I never thought there would be so much written on this. Back in my younger years we used to pull the thermostats out for summer and back in for winter. That was with a 55 Ford in the 50's. I had friends then running flatheads but the "belly buttons" were almost unbeatable without doing lots of expensive work. I see now on the anti freeze that distilled water is supposed to be used, I guess that means no more hose water. Your posts are great!
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:54 PM   #16
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Default Re: Cooling Questions

one of our friends here on the barn, or on another flat head site made a very simple and handy wrench for tightening the belts. I have a pic of it but I have no idea how to get it here. if rossvillecarl or tubman see this maybe they will post it
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