Removal of Rear Cap

[RawhideKid]

I am about to remove the pan and check the bearings and I am wondering, the pictures I have seen show a cover on the rear main cap making it impossible to removing it without removing the bell housing.

I am thinking that this cover is removable but I am wondering if there is some gasket I will need to replace it, and if removed it allows full access to the rear main cap?

I was also wondering how to check the center main clearance with a bottle jack?

Also, if using Plastigauge, how would you check the top of the bearings without dropping the crank?

Thanks.

[James Rogers]

There is no cover to contend with. Just remove the 2 nuts and drop the cap. Be careful of the shim packs or the absence of them. The best way to check the rear clearance (or any cap) is to cut a strip of heavy duty aluminum foil 2" long and 1" wide and fold it in half to make a square 1". Put the square in the middle of the bearing in the cap and replace the cap in the motor. Try to turn the engine, if you can turn it with the crank handle easily, remove the cap and peel off 1 shim and try it again. Do this till the engine gets stiff but not locked. Remove the cap, pull out the foil and replace the cap, and torque. That finishes the rear so, now you should do the center and probably the front in the same fashion.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Welcome to Fordbarn. I believe you are over-thinking some of this.

On the front of the flywheel housing will (should) be an inspection plate with three bolts. Removing that plate should give the necessary clearance to bring the cap straight down off of the main bolts. Generally the crankshaft throws will need to be oriented in the horizontal position to gain the most room. There is not any gasket between the inspection cover plate and the flywheel housing.

While there is a small amount of merit in pushing the crankshaft upward so as to get the most accurate reading, it is not necessary. The amount of crankshaft deflection caused by not supporting the center main would likely be less than a quarter thousandth. In your situation, this is moot.

Using Plastigage is a method of getting close. I agree with your mindset but the bless the crankshaft is bent, the space above the crankshaft will be so minute, it is not worth the bother IMO. If you are concerned, just set your clearance a little tighter to compensate for that deflection. Again, lay the Plastigage across the bearing cap and then torque the cap to determine the approximate amount of clearance.

Good luck and best wishes.

[katy]

to cut a strip of heavy duty aluminum foil

How thick is heavy duty aluminum foil?

[wrndln]

I think regular aluminum foil is about .0005" thick. Heavy duty aluminum, I believe, is about .001" thick. Note these are approximate values. You should get a good micrometer and measure the thickness of the foil you are using to make sure of the thickness. There should be about .0015" clearance for the oil in all the bearings.
Rusty Nelson

[James Rogers]

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Originally Posted by katy

How thick is heavy duty aluminum foil?

Alcoa heavy duty is .001

[wk2w]

A short 3/4", 3/8 drive socket will make life easier when removing the nuts on the rear main cap. Be sure to keep the nuts and shims separated so you know which side of the engine they came from.

[wk2w]

When you get ready to reinstall the oil pan, be very careful replacing the rear-most 5/16" pan bolts near the flywheel housing. Either replace the housing cover first, or stuff rags in the opening so you don't drop a bolt in the housing. It's a miserable task to get a bolt out of there.

[RawhideKid]

Originally Posted by wk2w

When you get ready to reinstall the oil pan, be very careful replacing the rear-most 5/16" pan bolts near the flywheel housing. Either replace the housing cover first, or stuff rags in the opening so you don't drop a bolt in the housing. It's a miserable task to get a bolt out of there.

Thanks for that.

[Dick M]

A wobbly style socket extension will also help.