The Ford Barn

V8COOPMAN · 07-28-2017, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drolston

The one pictured clamps to the hub center. The back disk is split to fit behind the wide part of the hub center. The front disk holds the back pieces together. Why is this one not okay?

IF your hubs/drums are actually installed on the axle tapers as tightly as they ARE SUPPOSED TO BE, you would be an extremely lucky man (if the threads on those two hardware store bolts and the female threads in the puller) don't wipe themselves clean. That tool will sometimes remove the LOOSE drums that were never installed tightly-enough as suggested by Ford. Like Clint Eastwood said........."Do you feel lucky"? Everyone with any REAL old Ford experience will tell you the same thing I am! Just look at the strength and heft built into this thing, below. Those threads are designed to be cranked-down on. DD

grumppyoldman · 07-28-2017, 04:31 PM

Is that small round thing a threaded cap that screws onto the axle threads? If so it should be screwed all the way on to the end of the axle or you would destroy the threads on the axle,right? Al

Dennis Mielke · 07-31-2017, 04:26 PM

Thanks everyone for advice. I think my confusion is because now you get the new hubs and drums as separate pieces and the drums slip over the studs and are not sweged in as the older hubs and drums appear to be. I just wanted to change the drums without having to replace the hubs. Looks it the task will be a little more involved.

Mart · 07-31-2017, 04:38 PM

Hi Dennis, thanks for the feedback. It's good that you have been able to grasp the situation. The replacement parts can be set up like a modern application, where the drum can be removed and the hub left in place. As you now realise, the original parts have to be removed as a unit, and you have to use a purposely designed puller to do it.

Welcome to the world of early Fords.

Mart.

Andy · 07-31-2017, 06:04 PM

I found that the repo drums I bought did not have a big enough spot for the hub to fit flat on the hubs. I had to grind an eight off the OD of the flange to get the hub to sit flat. I used F100 studs.

07-28-2017, 04:31 PM	#22
grumppyoldman Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Texas Gulf Coast Posts: 727	Re: Removing 1940 drums Is that small round thing a threaded cap that screws onto the axle threads? If so it should be screwed all the way on to the end of the axle or you would destroy the threads on the axle,right? Al

07-31-2017, 04:26 PM	#23
Dennis Mielke Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Costa Mesa, CA Posts: 38	Re: Removing 1940 drums Thanks everyone for advice. I think my confusion is because now you get the new hubs and drums as separate pieces and the drums slip over the studs and are not sweged in as the older hubs and drums appear to be. I just wanted to change the drums without having to replace the hubs. Looks it the task will be a little more involved.

07-31-2017, 04:38 PM	#24
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,749	Re: Removing 1940 drums Hi Dennis, thanks for the feedback. It's good that you have been able to grasp the situation. The replacement parts can be set up like a modern application, where the drum can be removed and the hub left in place. As you now realise, the original parts have to be removed as a unit, and you have to use a purposely designed puller to do it. Welcome to the world of early Fords. Mart.

07-31-2017, 06:04 PM	#25
Andy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kerrville, Tx Posts: 2,769	Re: Removing 1940 drums I found that the repo drums I bought did not have a big enough spot for the hub to fit flat on the hubs. I had to grind an eight off the OD of the flange to get the hub to sit flat. I used F100 studs.