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07-28-2017, 03:18 PM | #21 | |
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Re: Removing 1940 drums
Quote:
Last edited by V8COOPMAN; 07-28-2017 at 03:38 PM. |
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07-28-2017, 04:31 PM | #22 |
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Location: Texas Gulf Coast
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Re: Removing 1940 drums
Is that small round thing a threaded cap that screws onto the axle threads? If so it should be screwed all the way on to the end of the axle or you would destroy the threads on the axle,right? Al
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07-31-2017, 04:26 PM | #23 |
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Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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Re: Removing 1940 drums
Thanks everyone for advice. I think my confusion is because now you get the new hubs and drums as separate pieces and the drums slip over the studs and are not sweged in as the older hubs and drums appear to be. I just wanted to change the drums without having to replace the hubs. Looks it the task will be a little more involved.
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07-31-2017, 04:38 PM | #24 |
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Location: Solihull, England.
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Re: Removing 1940 drums
Hi Dennis, thanks for the feedback. It's good that you have been able to grasp the situation. The replacement parts can be set up like a modern application, where the drum can be removed and the hub left in place. As you now realise, the original parts have to be removed as a unit, and you have to use a purposely designed puller to do it.
Welcome to the world of early Fords. Mart. |
07-31-2017, 06:04 PM | #25 |
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Location: Kerrville, Tx
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Re: Removing 1940 drums
I found that the repo drums I bought did not have a big enough spot for the hub to fit flat on the hubs. I had to grind an eight off the OD of the flange to get the hub to sit flat. I used F100 studs.
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