1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[STEVE O]

Chris,
Another approach if the inspection hole is hard to access is carefully push the crank back with something prying back on the crank center bolt and not touching the pulley, then have someone push the clutch to check the endplay.
Good Luck
Steve

[sugarmaker]

Steve,
Great suggestion on moving the crank fore and aft. What allows oil to escape when this wear occurs? might be time to call my machine shop and get the rebuilt short block in process too. IIRC the machine shop mentioned that the slinger would be removed and a new rear seal system would be installed.
Regards,
Chris

[Bored&Stroked]

As this engine doesn't have a rope or rubber rear main seal, then the amount of oil that can get past the main bearings is controlled by how close the clearances are - not only on the crank journals, but also the thrust clearances in the rear. The more clearance you have (especially if it is excess), then the more oil (as it is under pressure) that will find it's way to the rear . . . and on your garage floor. As you noted, when you rebuild the other engine, having a specially crafted rear main seal modification is a good thing. Also, do you already have a crank for the other engine? Is it a counterbalanced one?

[sugarmaker]

Dale,
When we met up this year I was on my way to get engine #2. It did not have a balanced crank in it so I have two standard cranks. Yes the plan, if I ever build the #1 engine into a short block would be to improve the rear main sealing design.
Looks like we have found the culprit for the oil leak. Thanks to you and other folks for providing the details of the inner workings of the B engine oiling system.
Not sure what I may have done different if I was to do it over again.

This #2 engine has actually exceeded my expectations, since it had so many other issues also. It has let me test out all of the other engine components and get a running moving truck before winter!
That was the goal and I got there. Now is it worth it to build another short block for the truck? Probably around $3 to $5K for the machining and the parts.
About $1500 for machine work
Balanced crank would be nice, just more dollars for a good used one or a new one! They make them every day!( Was wrong this was A cranks only)
Still thinking on that short block project, Now would be the time to kick it off if that #1 engine was to go into the truck next spring. If the block pressure tested good that would be a big plus also! I keep worrying about the cracks in this #2 engine.
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Your last posting suggests that you know of a source for new Model B counterbalanced crankshafts. For future reference, please let us know of that source as previously I had understood that only new Model A counterbalanced crankshafts are available.

[Bored&Stroked]

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SCAT makes two Model B/C 4340 steel crankshafts - though I believe they only come with 1.5" rod journals. Would be interesting to call them and see if they can supply them with journals of other sizes?

[sugarmaker]

David,
I stand corrected. I saw the model A balanced cranks in Snyder's. My mistake.
So I have made the initial call to the machine shop to move forward with the investigative work on the #1 engine. First would be the pressure test. After that is proved to be acceptable. We would move into the machining of the block, bores for pistons, new valve seats, machining for new bearings and also new rear seal system eliminating the slinger. And bringing the thrust of the crank back to spec. Goal is to have the short block to me by spring 2022, as the truck turns 90 and I am 70!. Will see how that goes. Some internal components from this #2 build will be moved over to the fresh block assuming they are ok. Some new components will be needed too.
Regards,
Chris

[Bob C]

Here is a link to some info on some options for a rear seal on a B engine.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273895

[DavidG]

Chris,


Dale has enlightened us both regarding the availability of "new" counterbalanced B crankshafts.

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
But the B journals are bigger as he mentions correct? Like 1.875 inch ?? Going by memory, which is very dangerous on this end.
Will take off the headlights again to add some sealing material for the glass to set against.
Then maybe do some coating of the hemlock interior.
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


I advise against the use of a sealer on the lenses as you might regret it later when it comes to changing a bulb (depending on the shape of the bulb). Original bulbs are too big to fit through the openings in the reflectors and can only be changed from the front of the reflector. The available cork gaskets for sealing the lenses against the perimeter of the reflector work very well without additional sealing in preventing the entry of moisture and air and subsequent tarnishing of the silver plating on the reflectors. The reflectors on my (former) station wagon in my avatar photo remain as bright as installed forty some years ago.

[sugarmaker]

David, Folks,
Agree with you. Snyder's was out of the cork or lens gasket material. I have some foam strip, I am going to put in there till I can get the right material. Just want to secure and cushion the glass at this time.
Applying varathane to the hemlock on the shop walls tonight. Second coat going on now.
32 sets out in the cold 59 degree dry night.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Way off topic as I normally do. Working the low wood in the shop. Two coats of the Varathane (SP?) product last night gets this corner complete till the next thing in that area. Which needs to be some type of storage.


This is a waterbased product. Looks like milk. Leaves a clear coating. Not much change to the natural wood color. Roll it on then back brush:


With the shop temp at near 70 degrees F, and the ceiling fans running, it did not take long for this area to be ready for the second and final coat. Much more to do, but like all projects its a start:


The 32 waits! Really glad I resisted and did not clean and paint the wheels when they were apart. It was actually a lot of work to try not to mess up the original patina look. But the end result is right where it should be for this ragged ol' truck. As you see fall is all around us and the temps dipped into the high 30's last night: No it didnt have to set out side all night, I brought it in.


Regards,
Chris

[Bored&Stroked]

I like the fact that you're leaving all of it in as original looking situation as possible. Once you start to clean and paint stuff - then you have to do the WHOLE damn thing! LOL

[DavidG]

Chris,

It looks great as is.

It is fortunate that Pennsylvania does not require a front license plate as the original brackets (part number B-5038, which was also used on very early production passenger cars) are difficult to find in usable condition.

[hd1937]

What is the difference between the B-5038 and the B-5036? I found some of the 5036s. A little spendy.

[sugarmaker]

Dale,
Very slippery slope when you begin the clean and paint process. I have consumed years. Glad you like the old look of the truck. The headlights are a great! Thank you!

David, Jim,
As usual you guy are way out in front of me on the bracket! Plus I am lazy. You can educate us on the front license bracket on the 32. Stock? Add on? Good? Bad?
Recommendations of what I might put on there that might look good and somewhat correct?
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

I would not put anything there given you don't have to have a front plate. I like the clean look without the plate.

[sugarmaker]

David,
Sometimes less is best. Good suggestion.
So I was out for a drive getting some last pictures of the fall leaves in the background. Figured I might as well go vote.
When done the trucks battery was dead. I couple guys gave me a push and in about the last try she fired up. I think I should get that Alt hooked up!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Good idea!