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10-10-2012, 09:48 AM | #1 |
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More about temperature senders and gauges
I followed Old Henry's instructions to confirm the wiring of my temperature gauge. When I attach the right side sender wire to the left (Double) side sender, the gauge goes completely hot. My question is should I reverse the wires on the gauge? Thanks, Byron.
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10-10-2012, 10:29 AM | #2 | |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
Quote:
Study the circuit from the temperature gauge through the two senders in the following wiring diagram to understand better:
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Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” *Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness Last edited by Old Henry; 10-10-2012 at 10:41 AM. |
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10-10-2012, 10:58 AM | #3 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
The Professor is correct. Here is a little more detail on the system operation.
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10-10-2012, 12:18 PM | #4 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
Not to hijack this thread, but I helped a buddy restore his '50 F1 and we are having issues with the temperature gauge. He replaced the flathead with a fuel injected 302 but his gauge panel is still factory. We put a factory flathead right side temp sender in the motor and we have a 6v reducer on the gauge panel. when you start the engine the temp gauge swings from Hot to Cold and then never moves. We've put in three different factory temp gauges in the truck and all of them do the same thing. Any ideas on how to get the temp gauge to work?
thanks David |
10-10-2012, 12:23 PM | #5 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
That sounds like a short in the wire from the gauge to the sender.
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10-10-2012, 12:28 PM | #6 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
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10-10-2012, 12:57 PM | #7 | |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
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Let us know what finally fixes it.
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Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” *Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness |
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10-10-2012, 12:58 PM | #8 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
Thanks Old Henry. I'll definitely check that out and let you know.
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10-10-2012, 04:31 PM | #9 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
Hivolt5.0, your temp sender itself needs to be grounded to the block. You may have used teflon tape when installing the sender, and have no ground there. For a quick test, try an aligator clip test lead to ground from the body of the sender.
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10-10-2012, 05:04 PM | #10 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
Hivolt5.0, You tried 3 different gauges and they all do the same thing. That is go to cold and stay there. Have you tried a different sending unit? These senders are not resistive. It may not be switching. Take a look at the diagram in my earlier post.
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10-11-2012, 08:55 AM | #11 | ||
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
Quote:
Quote:
thanks for all of the advice guys!!! |
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10-11-2012, 10:04 AM | #12 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
That is how everything is wired. Perhaps the right sender is faulty. I may have a spare. I think I removed the teflon tape last year. I'll try to switch the wires on the left sender before reversing the wires on the gauge. My gauge reads cold with no current, so maybe it is bad. Thanks, Byron.
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11-15-2012, 12:56 AM | #13 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
Last week I finally had the opportunity to test the sending unit on my buddy's '50 F1. I tried grounding the case of the sending unit with a piece of wire but that didn't seem to affect the gauge, the needle didn't move off cold and I know the engine was at operating temperature because he had just driven to my house.
So last night I had another opportunity to check the voltage from the reducer. I measured 6.96 volts from the reducer. I also checked to see what the voltage was from the signal wire. With a cold engine the signal wire voltage was 1.24 volts. I'm not sure if the voltage changed with a warm engine, I wasn't able to stay long enough to check that. Does any of this help lead me to resolve the temp gauge issue?? thanks in advance for your help. |
11-15-2012, 07:24 AM | #14 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
If the gauge goes from hot to cold when the ignition is on the gauge is good. It really does not make any difference how the gauge is wired. It is basically a heating element wrapped around a bi-mettallic spring to move the needle. Your issue is the one teminal sender. It is no longer switching in relation to the engine temp. The contacts in it are stuck closed causing constant current flow, thus making the gauge indicate cold.
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11-15-2012, 08:53 AM | #15 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
Thank you 41ford1! I'll let my buddy know he needs a new sending unit. He was going to the Moultrie, GA swap meet this weekend any way so he can pick one up there.
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11-15-2012, 10:14 AM | #16 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
The gauges in old Fords are King Seeley brand. To check out the gauges, fuel, temp and oil pressure, use a "D" cell battery and hook wire off sending unit to + or - and other end to ground side of gauge. Should read half scale. Hook two "D" cells in series and gauge should read full scale.
As for your voltage reducer, THROW it away! Put on what Ford used for years. Ford used a voltage reducer on their gauges and think it is a VR-1 at NAPA. Hope this helps. |
11-15-2012, 10:19 AM | #17 |
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Re: More about temperature senders and gauges
Disconnect the wire at the sending unit gauge should now go to hot with the key on. if it does it is an issue with the sender if not the problem lies in wiring or the gauge.
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