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Old 03-17-2021, 11:26 AM   #1
Marshall V. Daut
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Default Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

I searched through the archives here to find an answer to my 1932 clutch questions, but nothing was a direct help. Lots of horror stories that are scaring me, though! As some readers here may recall, I am not a V-8 person, only Models A and T since 1966. A friend has a very nice 1932 Coupe that he is selling, but it has a bad shudder when the clutch pedal is let out. Motor mounts look good, as some past postings suggested could be contributing to the chatter. I think we need to look at the clutch and disk, which of course means removal of some kind.
I just examined the car and have a couple questions. Please refer to the accompanying photos. The cross member under the rear of transmission appears to be blocking any rear removal of the tranny. The oil pan extends to the transmission. Does this mean the engine has to come out in order to replace the clutch and parts? If the transmission CAN be removed via the rear axle, how does it come back far enough to be pulled out? That crossmember does not appear to be friendly to being removed. Is it supposed to be removed in order to pull the transmission?
A secondary issue is the brake system, which has been converted to hydraulic. Once again, not my area of expertise. I understand these brakes should still be mechanical with brake rods. Well, they're not. The front wheels have virtually no resistance when I spun them on jack stands. They may STILL be spinning! Obviously, an adjustment is required. Since these are not 1932 mechanical brakes, what year are the backing plates so that I can look up adjusting procedures?
Thanks for helping an antique Ford fan, who is clueless about 1932+ Fords.
Marshall
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Old 03-17-2021, 12:01 PM   #2
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

.

Those are '39-'41 brakes, with upper AND lower adjustments at each wheel.

The '32 center crossmember DOES NOT come out....hence, trans will NOT be moving rearward. DD
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Old 03-17-2021, 12:26 PM   #3
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

As DD says. Gotta pull the engine.On the brakes try the upper bolt first .It works a cam that moves the brake shoe.
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Old 03-17-2021, 12:42 PM   #4
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

Just adjusted the brakes on my 39 Mercury, a 3/4 OFFSET box wrench works best in conjunction with a medium sized adjustable as the center pin of the adjuster is TOO small of a box wrench to most likely give you enough leverage to turn the adjuster!!!! ALSO you "may want to squirt a little WD40 (or lubricant of choice) around the upper adjuster/eccentric as those tend to get "crusty" and hard to turn!!!! Some pre lubricating will also help!!!!
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Old 03-17-2021, 01:18 PM   #5
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

With the closed center cross member of '32 chassis frames there is only one way to access the transmission and clutch and that is to remove the engine/transmission assembly as unit forward which entails removing the hood and radiator at a minimum.
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Old 03-17-2021, 02:46 PM   #6
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

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YUP, the engine has to be pulled along with the tranny. When I had my 32 coupe (55 Olds engine) I could remove the engine and tranny in about an hour, I got good at it.
Paul in CT
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Old 03-17-2021, 03:27 PM   #7
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

It's all been said, but I wondered why the vehicle is running a split wishbone when a stock one would (probably) work.
As he has wire wheels on 40 - 48 drums/hubs, make sure there is a spacer under the centre of the wheel. The wires are not designed to sit on a flat surface.

Can I just add t6hat you've come to the right place. You're amongst friends here. Please illustrate any questions with lots of photos and we will do our best to help.

For info he has 37-40 type spindles too. (roundback). Also the gearbox casing looks to be a later type.

Edit: Ignore above re spindles. They are squareback as stated below.

Just noticed tube shock direct to axle web.

Last edited by Mart; 03-17-2021 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 03-17-2021, 04:25 PM   #8
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut View Post
I searched through the archives here to find an answer to my 1932 clutch questions, but nothing was a direct help. Lots of horror stories that are scaring me, though! As some readers here may recall, I am not a V-8 person, only Models A and T since 1966. A friend has a very nice 1932 Coupe that he is selling, but it has a bad shudder when the clutch pedal is let out. Motor mounts look good, as some past postings suggested could be contributing to the chatter. I think we need to look at the clutch and disk, which of course means removal of some kind.
I just examined the car and have a couple questions. Please refer to the accompanying photos. The cross member under the rear of transmission appears to be blocking any rear removal of the tranny. The oil pan extends to the transmission. Does this mean the engine has to come out in order to replace the clutch and parts? If the transmission CAN be removed via the rear axle, how does it come back far enough to be pulled out? That crossmember does not appear to be friendly to being removed. Is it supposed to be removed in order to pull the transmission?
A secondary issue is the brake system, which has been converted to hydraulic. Once again, not my area of expertise. I understand these brakes should still be mechanical with brake rods. Well, they're not. The front wheels have virtually no resistance when I spun them on jack stands. They may STILL be spinning! Obviously, an adjustment is required. Since these are not 1932 mechanical brakes, what year are the backing plates so that I can look up adjusting procedures?
Thanks for helping an antique Ford fan, who is clueless about 1932+ Fords.
Marshall
1942-48 spindles with a upper hoop for connecting to the box . Im not sure the axle is 32 or not . If the wishbones were split it may be a different axle . Would like to see pics of the complete front set up and motor mounts .
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:01 PM   #9
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

Axle is '32
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:24 PM   #10
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

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Originally Posted by Ggmac View Post
1942-48 spindles with a upper hoop for connecting to the box . Im not sure the axle is 32 or not . If the wishbones were split it may be a different axle . Would like to see pics of the complete front set up and motor mounts .

As noted elsewhere.....no mistaking a '32 axle! DD


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Old 03-17-2021, 07:00 PM   #11
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

As long as your posting photos, how about a few of the rest of that '32? The guys on our side of the forum will steer you right on any and all questions you might have.
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Old 03-17-2021, 07:25 PM   #12
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

.

I'd bet two-bits that your '32 turns MORE sharply to the LEFT than it does to the RIGHT.....YES/NO? DD
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Old 03-17-2021, 07:30 PM   #13
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut View Post
I searched through the archives here to find an answer to my 1932 clutch questions, but nothing was a direct help. Lots of horror stories that are scaring me, though! As some readers here may recall, I am not a V-8 person, only Models A and T since 1966. A friend has a very nice 1932 Coupe that he is selling, but it has a bad shudder when the clutch pedal is let out. Motor mounts look good, as some past postings suggested could be contributing to the chatter. I think we need to look at the clutch and disk, which of course means removal of some kind.
I just examined the car and have a couple questions. Please refer to the accompanying photos. The cross member under the rear of transmission appears to be blocking any rear removal of the tranny. The oil pan extends to the transmission. Does this mean the engine has to come out in order to replace the clutch and parts? If the transmission CAN be removed via the rear axle, how does it come back far enough to be pulled out? That crossmember does not appear to be friendly to being removed. Is it supposed to be removed in order to pull the transmission?
A secondary issue is the brake system, which has been converted to hydraulic. Once again, not my area of expertise. I understand these brakes should still be mechanical with brake rods. Well, they're not. The front wheels have virtually no resistance when I spun them on jack stands. They may STILL be spinning! Obviously, an adjustment is required. Since these are not 1932 mechanical brakes, what year are the backing plates so that I can look up adjusting procedures?
Thanks for helping an antique Ford fan, who is clueless about 1932+ Fords.
Marshall
Does the engine have the anti-chatter rods attached? How about a photo of them?

Charlie Stephens
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Old 03-17-2021, 08:20 PM   #14
Marshall V. Daut
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

Thanks for the replies so far and moral support. Good reading and very informative. I will try to get more photos in the next couple days. I have not personally driven the car, so I don't know about the lock-to-lock steering difference. I'll see if I can duplicate that on jack stands. Is there a reason you ask, V8COOPMAN? Do you see something amiss in that area?
The owner tells me the clutch chatters when he lets out the pedal. From my Model A experience, that usually points to a bad disk or one without the caged springs. Since the engine apparently has to come out in order to do a clutch job (GREAT DESIGN THERE, HENRY!!!), that ain't going to happen in this case. Way too invasive for me in unfamiliar territory with a $65,000 Coupe that isn't even mine!
While underneath the car examining the back of the transmission, I noticed two 5/16" bolts each on either side of the transmission tail piece that go through the back of the cross member and have nuts below. They are loose and flopping around. I can't see any purpose for these bolts that do nothing other than go through the rear of that cross member. Huh??? I assume something is missing that these bolts are supposed to secure. Are these bolts for the anti-chatter rods mentioned by Charlie? Or where should these rods be if not there? What do they look like and where do they attach? If they are missing, perhaps that's why the clutch chatters? There must be SOME reason for these loose bolts to be there!?! I have no manuals for early V8 cars, so I can't compare photos with what's here and what isn't.
While the car is jacked up, I'll remove one wheel and check for the required adapter spacer. And if there aren't any? Will this stress the lug studs to the point of snapping or throw off the centering of the wheel vis-a-vis the drum?
Marshall, V8 dunce
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Old 03-17-2021, 09:04 PM   #15
Marshall V. Daut
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

I found a couple pictures on the Internet of the 1932 clutch anti-chatter rods. The spacing for the two mounting holes seems to match those loose bolts on the back of the crossmember of my friend's Coupe. I'll check tomorrow. If these are in fact the missing animals, to what do the front threaded parts connect? Some kind of adjustable eye-clevis?
Marshall
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Old 03-17-2021, 09:49 PM   #16
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

There should be holes on either side of the bell housing cast into the back of the block to accept the threaded end of the rod. Once the rods are mounted and inserted into those holes, nuts secure them and should be tightened enough to take up the slack caused by the mounting system on early flatheads.

I think you have found your friends problem.
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Old 03-17-2021, 10:09 PM   #17
Marshall V. Daut
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

Ah, ha! Thank you, "tubman". Although I did find photos of the rods on the Internet, I couldn't find any photos or drawings showing how they are mounted. I get the impression from reading past postings on various discussion forums that some owners think the rods are good, others don't think they work or aren't worth the effort/cost. Were these anti-chatter rods standard in 1932 or are they aftermarket "hot rod" items? Photos? Drawings?
I see most of the ones on the Internet have been long sold. SOMEBODY must believe in them! Are these rods offered new by vendors and if so, can a "kit" be purchased with the mounting ends included? Clearly, we have nothing except the four 5/16" bolts and nuts in the crossmember. I don't have any V8 catalogs to browse through.
Marshall
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Old 03-17-2021, 11:22 PM   #18
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

The engine steady (or anti-chatter) rods in your photos are for a '32 four-cylinder engine. The V8 version is shorter from the shoulder near the front to the end of the threads, otherwise they are identical. They were standard equipment on all '32 passenger cars and commercial vehicles, but not big trucks.
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Old 03-18-2021, 12:03 AM   #19
Marshall V. Daut
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

Well, it looks as if I will be advertising for these rods and brackets. Judging by past classified ads, they don't last long before being purchased. A ton of them must have been thrown away over the years.

Marshall

By the way, what length do I need to request?
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Old 03-18-2021, 02:46 AM   #20
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Default Re: Clutch replacement, 1932 Coupe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut View Post
I found a couple pictures on the Internet of the 1932 clutch anti-chatter rods. The spacing for the two mounting holes seems to match those loose bolts on the back of the crossmember of my friend's Coupe. I'll check tomorrow. If these are in fact the missing animals, to what do the front threaded parts connect? Some kind of adjustable eye-clevis?
Marshall
Marshall.....The bare block sitting on it's rear in the first pic is an actual '32 block, if that is what you have. Nevertheless, the two holes at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock on the block closest to the concrete floor at the flywheel area are the two holes that the rods mount through from the rear. The second picture is of a somewhat later chassis, and the REAR end of the rods attach to the chassis differently than a '32, but you can see how the rods go thru those same holes as I pointed-out in pic #1.

You asked farther up above WHY I inquired about the left/right turn. On stock '32-'34 front, left spindles, the steering arm which the DRAG LINK attaches to is NOT directly centered in line with, and above the front axle, as seen in picture #3 below. The ball (drag link pivot point) is slightly AHEAD of the axle center line when the steering box is 'centered'. Those aftermarket steering arms (which actually form a hoop) like the one in your 'BRAKE' picture, CENTERS the drag link pivot point directly over the axle when the steering box is 'centered'. Picture #4 shows another angle. The simple GEOMETRY has been slightly altered with that aftermarket arm such that as when the drag link pulls the arm AFT during a RIGHT turn, and because it is already THEORETICALLY farther rearward than it should be BEFORE it begins to move, SOME travel will be limited. For the same reasons, when attempting a LEFT turn, the steering box will impart a little extra travel forward, likely making your 'lefties' a little tighter than your 'righties'. Other than that, about a bazillion of those aftermarket arms have been used the past 80+ years or so, and most folks likely won't even notice the difference. Hope some of this helps you!

By the way, I would contact Michael Driskell at 3rd Gen Automotive in McMinnville, Tennessee about getting the PROPER rods. He knows '32s, and will lead you in the right direction. Ask for Michael! He is a regular here on the 'Barn! His web site below. DD

https://thirdgenauto.com/



















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