Major oil leak on rebuilt engine

[Doctor's Ford]

My 1933 model B engine was entirely rebuilt. Every internal component was either replaced or redone. Engine has essentially no miles yet, just test running and a brief first ride that I posted a week ago. After engine got warm it started leaking oil like crazy, both from the front and from the rear (seen in photos below). I was ready for a few oil spots as everyone says these cars are known for but this is clearly a significant leak that can not be left alone. Half a quart of oil went out in less than an hour. The engine will be removed again. Where should I check for source of the leak? All seals/retainers were new. Any particular type that is recommended or to stay away from? Thanks. Manuel

[JSeery]

Would guess the seals were not installed properly. Are they the rope type seals? Did you install them or someone else? If you installed them, have you ever installed this type of seal before?

[Bob C]

That oil looks like it has water in it, does the dip stick show
over full??

Bob

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Bob C

That oil looks like it has water in it, does the dip stick show
over full??

Bob

I agree with Bob unless that is some different type of oil, it looks like a water oil mix.

[Doctor's Ford]

I checked the oil dipstick. It has no marks (like Low or High, etc) so don't really know where the level should be but it seems definitely high (half way to the stick) and it appears a bit diluted, watery as some of you stated. Photo not showing well but I marked where the oil level is. Engine rebuilt was done professionally by a builder who has done several model As before. The seal was rope type. I don't know what the water contamination means but I am sure is bad news and I am bracing for the worst scenario. The engine runs very well, no smoke, idles perfectly. Can you tell what generally causes water to leak into oil system? and how you would approach checking this problem?

[Ross F-1]

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If you overfilled, the crank could be whipping it into a froth, producing that appearance. It would also account for the massive leaking. How many quarts did you put in?

[john in illinois]

The leak of water into oil is usually a head gasket leaking or a crack in the block or head. If the engine was rebuilt,it was probably checked for cracks and the head and block surfaced.I would pull the head off and check the gasket before pulling the engine.

Model B will pump oil out the rear main if the oil level is too high,so your front seal and rear baffle may be fine.
You also might consult with the rebuilder.

Also if you have water in pan,loosen the drain plug and it will come out first.
John

[39topless]

Originally Posted by Ross F-1

If you overfilled, the crank could be whipping it into a froth, producing that appearance. It would also account for the massive leaking. How many quarts did you put in?

Maybe drain the oil and refill with the correct amount (4-5 qts ?). Also check the radiator and fill to correct level. Then run it again and see what happens.

[Mart]

Drain the oil and check for water in it. If water is obvious then a strip down may be necessary, if not obvious I would do the following:

Put the recommended amount of oil into the motor.

Mark the dipstick with a small notch.

Use this as your "full" mark and always maintain the oil to this mark.

If the mark is significantly lower than the oil level you are showing now, that might be the problem (oil level too high).

If the oil level rises and the oil becomes discoloured or milky it might be getting water leaking from somewhere.

I'm just thinking what I would do before tearing things apart.

Mart.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Mart

Drain the oil and check for water in it. If water is obvious then a strip down may be necessary, if not obvious I would do the following:

Put the recommended amount of oil into the motor.

Mark the dipstick with a small notch.

Use this as your "full" mark and always maintain the oil to this mark.

If the mark is significantly lower than the oil level you are showing now, that might be the problem (oil level too high).

If the oil level rises and the oil becomes discoloured or milky it might be getting water leaking from somewhere.

I'm just thinking what I would do before tearing things apart.

Mart.

Manuel, don;t tear engine apart until you drain all the oil and water if any then add new oil, try again several times.

[FrankWest]

You have way too much oil!
My 1933 model B dipstick shows full at 1/6 the dipstick legenth before the handel!!!!!

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

The Model B engine did not have a rear seal original, You keep mentioning a rear seal. Did some one machine the rear slinger on the crank so a rope could be installed? If the front seal is leaking some one has done a poor job installing it. Walt

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Doctor's Ford

I checked the oil dipstick. It has no marks (like Low or High, etc) so don't really know where the level should be but it seems definitely high (half way to the stick) and it appears a bit diluted, watery as some of you stated. Photo not showing well but I marked where the oil level is. Engine rebuilt was done professionally by a builder who has done several model As before. The seal was rope type. I don't know what the water contamination means but I am sure is bad news and I am bracing for the worst scenario. The engine runs very well, no smoke, idles perfectly. Can you tell what generally causes water to leak into oil system? and how you would approach checking this problem?

-

Full in this engine is approx 2 inches from the bottom of the dipstick!

You have way too much oil.

More oil in you engine than in Texas-----------------------------

[cmbrucew]

I would re torque the head before anything else.
Drain the water out of the pan, and run it again.
Then re check water and oil levels.
Bruce

[Doctor's Ford]

OK, I'll follow the suggestions that all of you agree upon: Will drain the pan and inspect oil, put correct amount of new oil, re torque the head (this has not been done yet after the rebuild so it is a good idea) and give another try. I'll post the results. Fingers crossed! Thank you all, Manuel

[TomT/Williamsburg]

I had a similar situation in the new engine in my 40 coupe about 14 years ago. If there is water in the oil, I used a commercial motor flush, Motor Flush I believe it was, that worked very well. I also made some frequent oil changes early on. No problems since ....

[rockfla]

Just a thought too. Maybe borrow a friends torque wrench as well , to double check yours and make sure of correct torque. That rear rope seal can be a real booger. Make sure you have someone who knows what they are doing..

[Doctor's Ford]

To follow up on the oil leak problem of my rebuilt model B engine. Some good news, some not too good. This is what I found out and did today.

First, I emptied the oil pan to inspect the oil. As suspected, found 6 quarts of oil, significantly more than the 4-5 recommended. There was no water at all. The milky color was due to an additive that is popular around here, a German product called Liqui Moly CeraTec. The guy who rebuilt the engine seems a fan of this "friction reducing additive" and he poured it into the oil system.

Second, retorqued the head up to 55 lbs (7.6 Kg) (cold). Removed spark plugs and inspected head which looked normal. No signs of water leaks. The water level in the radiator was normal.

Third, added 4 quarts of 15-50 W motor oil and measured the level with a mark on the dipstick. It was half way where it was before! Lot of extra oil there!

Lastly, started the engine and let it run. Unfortunately, after 30 minutes it began to leak oil again, initially at the front part of the pan and then at the rear. Same locations as shown before but less intense leak.

Finally I retorqued the head with hot engine at 55 lbs

I am confident there is no water leak anywhere. There was an excess of oil due to overfilling the oil pan but the persistent leak now that the correct amount of oil is placed seems to indicate a retainer problem in the engine.

Do you agree that next step is to remove the engine and check seal/retainer? Manuel

[Tinker]

Chase the leak. If it's coming from the pan was a gasket used? Start simple work your way out if you have too.

[flatjack9]

It may be that the leak is only in one place and seeps along the pan rail making it look like multiple locations.

[colin1928]

Here is 2 more things to check is the breather cap working or pushed on to far if you or anyone during the caps life pushed it on to hard the tabs bend and close up stopping breathing B model like to breath well that is why the filler tube and cap are double the size of the A Model
2nd have the ring been seated by driving with load on them if you ran the at low rpm and no load when you started it up for too long the rings may not be seated giving blowby which can blow out gaskets and seals
Colin

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

It may be that the leak is only in one place and seeps along the pan rail making it look like multiple locations.

Don;t know but do they sell a flourscent die that you could put in the oil and then look at the engine with a black light to see where the oil is leaking?

Until you see where the leak is seems you should not pull the engine.
Perhaps only the oil pan is leaking and that can be replaced with the engine in the car....Same as the head..... and any other seals you can replace without pulling the engine.

[Doctor's Ford]

Hi all. I am reporting back after 4 months working on the model B engine to fix this nightmare oil leak. After the engine was removed we found several big issues related to this problem. A mechanic with some experience in model As came by and did the work with me. It is my first engine job but he knows his trade. We followed instructions provided in the book “The model A engine” by William McRee. I show some of the photos describing what was done based on the problems identified in the following order:

1) There was water leak into oil. The head gasket went bad (it was a new copper gasket) and was replaced. The head itself seemed defective. Two of the water holes around the middle cylinder were too close to the combustion chamber and any gasket would fail to seal properly. The head was repaired at the machine shop. The block and all babbitts seem fine. This problem resolved.

2) Consequently, water got into 2nd cylinder. Repaired and resolved.

3) The oil leak in the front of the engine. The front seal was damaged. There was a metal chip on the shaft of crank pulley that ate away the seal. This explained the front oil leak. We replaced it with one from MAC’S, part # A-6700-M, modern style aluminum with inner seal instead of rope style. Works perfect. This problem resolved.

4) The big oil leak was at the rear of engine. The rear main bearing had original style components, with the semicircular metal insert and the oil pan cork gasket. Upon dissassembly we could not identify the reason for leak so decided to install a modern neoprene seal for model B from Joe’s Antique Auto parts: Rear main seal, cork neoprene 2 piece, B-6335-C. It is reported as very effective when done properly (hope we did it properly!). The crankshaft oil slinger was machined exactly to specifications per manufacturer's instructions (I think it was 2.450 inches). However, after we reassembled and tested the engine it started leaking in about 20 minutes, initially just a few drops per minute and after accelerating at high RPM for about 2 minutes it started leaking a lot again on the rear, just as it was before all this repair procedure. THIS PROBLEM REMAINS AND I AM OUT OF IDEAS. You can see in the video below that is dripping very badly. There is no flathead expert locally. Shipping the engine to the US is not a practical option. Got to fix it here. Please look at the photos and may be some of you will chime in with new suggestions. Thanks again. Manuel


Book has many photos to guide repair and reassembly with comments on model B when applicable. Very useful for model B owners.



Large oil leak. Oil in the pan looked suspicious for water contamination.



A close up shows the gasket failure. This was a new copper gasket and the only use the engine had until it failed was test running. Never had any load and it hardly ran a total of 20 hours until engine pulled because of large oil leak and water in the oil pan


At the machine shop the 2 holes too close to the combustion chamber were filled up and 2 new ones are open more to the center (shown above). These 2 eventually matched the gasket very well and it seems will seal correctly,



The problematic water holes around the center cylinders are kept far away from the edge which is protected by a metal ring. This is "Premium gasket for model B" from Snyder's



This is what we found at the front of engine. The pulley shaft had a large metal chip that I presume ate away the front seal. I can't understand how the metal got damaged. It was a new pulley and the engine only ran for testing. It was repaired at the machine shop


A sleeve was placed. on the pulley shaft. This was needed to fit the modern front seal which has a slightly larger internal diameter than the crankshaft and at the same time it fixed the metal chip on the pulley shaft.


The seal is aluminum on both ends and rubber in the center. The white looking color is just light reflection from the front part aluminum material. This seal works perfectly well and have no oil leak at the front.


Minimal scratches from early rust caused by the water leak. Fortunately caught on time and a superficial polish was sufficienet to make it smooth


This is where big oil leak was coming from. We couldn't find the explanation. The pan gasket seemed too short and there was a lot of sealer all over the place. Unfortunately it is the only photo I have for this part. The original crankshaft oil slinger is seen (this was machined llater to fit a modern neoprene seal) and the aluminum metal insert also seen in the block.


A new aluminum metal insert and the top portion of the neoprene seal being placed



The tips of the seal flushed to the aluminum insert


The other half of the neoprene seal goes on the main cap


Placing rear main cap. By bolting the main cap the full circumference of the neoprene seal will embrace the oil slinger. This was machined to exact size of the seal following the manufacturer's recommendations. All edges were covered with Permatex Black RTV Sealer


Reassembly in progress. The crankshaft already bolted and the flywheel housing now placed. New gaskets everywhere.


Finally the oil pan installed. New gasket and plenty of Permatex Black RTV sealer used.


[/URL]
Reassembly in process


Everything put back together to start the engine again and test if repairs were successful.


Engine works fine, idles well, smooth and steady. Engine oil and water level all normal troughout. No signs or water leaks and no signs of oil leak in the front. The rear of the engine is a different story shown in next video.


Same problem after so much work to repair the rear main!!! What did we do wrong????

[chap52]

We are all hoping for a pinched or damaged pan gasket. But no matter what I would first call my builder and ask how "HE" would like to deal with the issue. You say he has built several of these and I know that as a professional builder he takes pride in his work and should be willing to at least investigate the problem.
Keep us poster.

[1931 flamingo]

You might try posting this on the "A" forum, many B guys over there along with engine builders. FWIW

Paul in CT

[DavidG]

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Manuel,

Does your rear main bearing cap have a pipe protruding from it that goes forward and then down towards the oil pan and drains excess oil from the rear main bearing? I did not see one in your photos, but then they do not show the area where the threaded pipe is screwed into the bearing cap.

[Kahuna]

1st: It appears to me that the seal looks more like cork than neoprene
2nd: The seal looks to be a bit low, or below the effective surface
Maybe camera angle or my old eyesight. Just an observation

[Doctor's Ford]

Yes, I will post this on the model A forum as well.

DavidG: Yes, the drain tube from the main bearing cap is there and I carefully checked and it was perfectly patent. However, few months ago at a shop the rebuilder broke it and welded it to the cap, so it is not threaded. It has the same length than a replacement I have and decided to leave it just to avoid more problems with the thread

Kahuna. Mmm. May be is not neoprene? The plastic seal and instructions clearly stated it was. I have never seen a neoprene seal before and could not tell. And yes, now that you mentioned, it may look low but can't tell until AGAIN I remove the engine. During assembly it seemed leveled.

[FrankWest]

Manuel, It breaks my heart to see these problems!
Check the height of the seal as another poster mentioned. Are you sure that the "cork" " neoprene rubber" seal extends enough.. seems shallow..what was the original material for this seal? Also have you tried
permetex aviation gasket sealer...That stuff is so sticky and stays soft that it is crazy!

[Kurt in NJ]

The pictureis of a new Ford factory babbitt, it's a different style than the A model like yours was done ---your babbitt doesn't have the oil wells, and it looks like there are voids in the thrust surface, and the thrust didn't flow all the way to the edge --there looks to be space between the babbitt and the block--a visible space between the thrust and crankshaft --all signs that point to a job not done quite to original specs---babbitt not peined into the block--it shrinks as it cools, has to be expanded into a tight fit in the block, voids come from not clean, and temp of babbitt not correct for pour---most likley too cold

another thing I noticed is that the valves are sunk down quite far below the deck surface---originally the seat was flush to the top of the block and the valves were above the deck when seated ---it would be interesting to know the reasoning for this given by the "machinist"

Too bad about the slinger, they are hard to put back ---when it was machined off was it centered to the mains---or the centers ---for it to work it has to match the mains

[FrankWest]

Manuel,
attached is a neoprene gasket, I know different from your application but the neoprene material is solid, the material they use in diving wet suits.
The pieces of cork gasket you are using might be prone to leaks???

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_me...ept-60-hp.html

[Doctor's Ford]

Kurt. Thanks for your observations. If they are as you said, will that explain big oil leaks? I thought my babbitts have an oil well. Isn't it the one seen in the middle of the babbitt?

Also, can you please explain what the meaning of "the seal must be centered on the main" is? I can't picture how that is and would like to discuss it with the machine shop, as I am sure they don't have that info.

Frank, model B brother, Yep, this is painful. Our learning curve is so steep that feels like climbing a mountain. Not easy approaching 60. Thanks for the info on neoprene seals. It looks that mine is cork and not neoprene as already suggested but still should not leak this much. Will keep trying !! If not fixable, will look for another motor.

[FlatheadTed]

The pipe needs to site in the oil ,The slinger normally works good ,cannot say that for that cork .I notice your cork pan cap seal is short of the pan rail ?? allowing oil through the corner ,also some brake out on the main cap .

[Kurt in NJ]

the oil well is the area near the parting line that is machined---it's the area 1/4' from each thrust surface that is machined, it is part of the oiling system, the oil from the groove in the block is guided the length of the bearing

Do you have shims to adjust the clearance in the bearing, and how much clearance do you have?

when the crankshaft was originally machined the centers for mounting in a lathe would be the same as the bearing surfaces, many times when a crankshaft was ground undersized this center no longer is the centerline of the bearing surface--if your bearing centerline is different than the "seal' surface centerline the seal will get bounced and moved by rotation which could turn it into a pump making it leak more

this ia a good link for rear main oil leaks--
http://antiqueenginerebuilding.com/REARMAINLEAK.html


The last 1/4 inch of bearing next to the rear thrust needs to fit tight with no gaps between the cap and block, the B engine has pressure to the mains, the clearance has to be good, the babbitt in the block/ cap needs to be tight together so there is no passage for oil to go out into the slinger area, the drain hole needs to be clean and the drain pipecan't obstruct the passage---it can't be screwed in too deep,--if it partially blocks the passage it will slow the draining of oil out of the slinger area

In looking at your pictures again it looks like you have camshaft bearings --is this a USA engine? --or is it a german built engine, USA engines didn't have cam bearings originally

[rich b]

Is the passage from the rear seal area open to the drain pipe, any possibility it got plugged when the pipe was welded to the cap. If plugged it might account for excessive pressure against the seal and cause the leakage.

[colin1928]

Some common leaks at the rear of B engine are

Camshaft fix is good gasket with hylomar true crack free flywheel housing with correct shims installed
Drain blocked or restricted fix remove welsh plug remove pipe run drill thru cap install pipe and file with rat tail file install welsh plug
Thrust any more than 0.010" end play lets more oil passed than the drain can handle fix new rear Babbitt
Bearing clearance max 0.0025" more let more oil pass
fix new rear Babbitt
Rear main cap not flat fix mill cap
Pan Gasket the pan rail gaskets must be under the 1/2 moon gasket that fits the rear cap

[john in illinois]

Does the B have a gasket behind the cam like the Model A? As Colin mentioned this gasket or a bad fit of the clutch housing could leak quite a bit.

John

[Doctor's Ford]

I suppose I was too sympathetic with my Ford and at the time it was leaking on the rear main I had to be admitted to the hospital for the same problem. Now recovering after a bad intestinal infection and want to go back on my car's leak problem.

Thanks Kurt in NJ and Colin1928 for thorough review of my photos. I am too inexperienrec to grasp all that information but I am beginning to suspect that a poor babbitt job is a significant or the sole culprit here. If that is the case I AM IN TROUBLE because there is nobody around here who has experience to follow those specifications described. The guy who did mine about a year ago is out of business and he had done only a few model As.

These are some of ideas I intend to follow, please advise:

1) In the abscence of a new babbitt on the block, will it help if I find an original main cap with the correct babbitt? That will be half of the babbitt problem resolved
2) If the undersized machined crankshaft is NOT center to the mains, can that be corrected at a machine shop or is the crankshaft ruined?
3) Will check the oil tube when I have the cap out. I never checked if the oil tube protrudes too much into the cap. I only checked that it was patent
4) You mentioned I may use shims for the bearings but I don't understand where the shims must go. I do have a set of shims though.
5) Am I reading corretly the clearances described by Colin1928? "Thrust any more than 0.010" end play lets more oil passed than the drain can handle. fix new rear Babbitt. Bearing clearance max 0.0025" more let more oil pass". This is only 2.5 thoushands of an inch. Is this the clearance between the bearing and the crankshaft?
6)

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

In looking at your pictures again it looks like you have camshaft bearings --is this a USA engine? --or is it a german built engine, USA engines didn't have cam bearings originally

Yes, the previous rebuilder a year ago said a bearing was missing there and added it. This is the original US engine on this car. What do I do with the camshaft bearing?

Sorry for the lengthy description. I rely a lot on your opinions. Tomorrow I have a meeting with the mechanic who recently did the work with me and will show him all these suggestions. Thanks to all

Manuel

[colin1928]

Manual your point s above
1 No you can not mix cap they are machined as a pair block and cap together
2 If it has already been machined to the correct size removing more is a NO NO you can build it up and remachine
3 Good
4 shim go between the block and the caps with new Babbitt so that as the Babbitt wears they can be removed to maintain correct clearance ( correct clearance for mains is 0.0015-0.002" or 0.040mm)
if you have no shims and good Babbitt and thrust clearance is correct you can mill the caps a few thou just need be carful of your crank to cam centre line
5 Yes these are the numbers IMO all the engines I have seen leak oil that have these number or more

If your Babbitt is bad remachine for insert bearings ??

[Doctor's Ford]

OK, I understand almost all of that except the "thrust clearance". Is this the clearance between what? the crankshaft and the main bearing? I need to make sure I know which part is called the "thrust". Thanks. Manuel

[colin1928]

Thrust is the end play or the distance the crank can move front to back
on the rear main the Babbitt wraps around and the crank has shoulders that meet this part of the Babbitt

[George Miller]

To bad you machined off the singer. Now you will have a oil leak for sure. The Babbitt job does not look good. Did you check the end play, it should be .004=.006 your crank looks like in the picture that it has way more clearance than that.

Things that cause rear main leaks. To much clearance, to much end play, cap not flat on mounting surface, shims not touching the crank shaft, plugged return hole in rear main cap, return tube screwed to far in cap, return tube loose in cap, return tube to short, to much pressure in crank case, new style rear main seal.plus some I for got. Other words ever thing has to be done right.

[Kerk]

As a suggestion you might want to remove the oil fill pipe and be sure there are no restrictions. I have had to bend the baffles on one I worked on to provide enough breathing of the engine. The owner took it on a 1300 + mile trip with no trouble . Just a suggestion. kx

[Buford]

Is there a good seal at the rear of the camshaft? Oil leaking there could appear to be the rear main leaking from under the car...

[Doctor's Ford]

Originally Posted by George Miller

To bad you machined off the singer. Now you will have a oil leak for sure..... Things that cause rear main leaks......... new style rear main seal.plus some I for got.

New style rear main seal? That is what I have placed trying to correct the oil leak problem! Do you think is a poor seal or do you think the problem was with installation procedure? or both? I have read that the cork-neopreone composite was an effective solution when done properly.

I know most would prefer to have an expert rebuilder address these types of issues but as I said before there are NONE in this country. It is not a matter of finances or stubborness. Probably I will never get a good babbitt job done and need to be flexible trying to fix things with available expertise (or lack of...). Manuel

[Doctor's Ford]

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Originally Posted by Buford

Is there a good seal at the rear of the camshaft? Oil leaking there could appear to be the rear main leaking from under the car...

At time of dissassembly it looked that no leak was coming from the camshaft and we placed a new gasket. Now, just to make sure I get the right parts regarding your question: Is the rear of the camshaft sealed by the flywheel housing gasket? I read about shims in the flywheel but don't know where exactly they are placed. Are they helpful in certain oil leaks? Manuel

[Bob C]

The shim you are asking about are probably these.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/se...-6400&x=59&y=8

Bob

[DavidG]

Let's not add to the problem by offering advice about components that aren't used on a '33 four such as the shims shown above between the two upper bolts of the housing and the back of the cylinder block as were used on '32 fours. A '33 four does not use the dampener attached to the firewall like a '32 and those two upper holes remain unused on a '33-'34 four.

[Bob C]

Sorry, I guess Henry was confused also as they are listed in the 1937
and 1948 parts book as 1928-34.

Bob

[FrankWest]

Manuel,
I may be full of crap but If I had this problem, I would look at the following basic questions.
Lets summerize.
You located the exact oil leak locations? Right. You can be certain that oil is not leaking from somewhere else and just flowing down and out at these locations, Right?
That is why I asked if you could put a flourscent die in the oil and run the engine to verify the oil paths with a black light.
But if you are certain you know where the oil is coming from then you have to question whether the crank shaft is true? Could something be bent out of true and as it spins it wobbles such that it releases a path for oil??
If you are sure that those bearing are leaking.
And that those particular seals are good tight and proper
then maybe the something in the can shaft is out of true.

[Doctor's Ford]

Originally Posted by Bob C

The shim you are asking about are probably these.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/se...-6400&x=59&y=8

Bob

Yes, they are but Snyder's list them for 28-31. My model B is a 1933 and my question was how shims in the flywheel are related to oil leak.

Originally Posted by FrankWest

That is why I asked if you could put a flourscent die in the oil and run the engine to verify the oil paths with a black light.

Thanks Frank. I like the logic of your suggestion and will search how to do it. If you know of a specific product name I will be willing to try because I don't have any certainty where the leak is coming from.
Manuel

[FlatheadTed]

As my previous post people often get confused as to were the oil is coming from are you sure its not the cork seal over the top of the bearing cap ?? or the pan gasket were it meets the rear cap .Also I sus jest you check with the FB members before you let that engine builder loose on your engine case in point the slingar needs to be put back on ,Ted

[satelite]

Manual
the cork seal shown in one of your pictures was designed by of friend of mine in our Model A club. I have used them many times and prefer them over the full circle neoprene type which tend to harden under heat. The cork seal is really cork impregnated with vitron rubber. It is critical that the seal is installed correctly and the surface to which the seal touches by prepped with assembly lubricant. I always made sure the seal was initially raised .050" to .062" above the block and the bearing cap so that when tightened the cork gasket fits tightly against the bearing surfaces. My friend also recommends that at initial start up, the engine should be run for one to two minutes several times until the cork seal seats itself. Using this technique, I have never had a problem. This is assuming of course as someone has mentioned that the babbits were correctly installed and line bored. Hope this is of some help to you.
Don in SC

[Doctor's Ford]

Don in SC. Thanks a lot. Being inexperienced on this trade, this is the type of comment that I find very helpful. Will follow it when I reach that point again. Manuel

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Doctor's Ford

Yes, they are but Snyder's list them for 28-31. My model B is a 1933 and my question was how shims in the flywheel are related to oil leak.




Thanks Frank. I like the logic of your suggestion and will search how to do it. If you know of a specific product name I will be willing to try because I don't have any certainty where the leak is coming from.
Manuel

Manuel, I have no personal experience with this product but this the kind of product I would try to find the leak origin point Make sure you clean of as much old oil from the motor before you run the engine with any tracer dies so that you will see the paths.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK9RqhD2OfI



http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Product...+leak+detector

http://www.amazon.com/Uview-413010-B...+leak+detector

[sugarmaker]

Ford Barn Folks,
Hope I am not causing concerns bringing this old thread back to the top But it has some of the same issues that may be what I have in my number 2 engine in my 32 Ford truck.

This original poster jumped through many hoops trying to get this B engine rear oil leak stopped, or reduced.
I have not made all the moves he did but can almost feel his pain!

I will be posting information on my thread as I make some attempts to understand the same issue and hopefully resolve it with my number 1 engine.
One of the things I read hear several times is not to remove the old slinger. Well I may be be past that on the # 1 crank. I believe my machine shop has that machined off already.

My summary on this is that a lot of experience goes into getting on of thesy B engines tightens up and to proper specs to reduce oil leaks to one or two drops per day or week!

I did not really add anything to this thread just my comments. Being a newbie I am trying to learn. And like others hope my engine is in good hands at the machine shop. And that we are making the right moves to have a good outcome.

Regards,
Chris