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Old 08-06-2014, 12:24 AM   #1
Jeff M
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Default Front axle install

Awhile back I pulled my front end out to repair the front cross member. I noticed it had some nasty cracks and a wallowed out tie bolt hole. I welded up the cracks and bolt hole along with the drivers side crank bearing hole. I used carbide burrs and make sure all the repairs were near seamless inside the cross member channel. I drilled the new tie bolt hole, filed it square, etc.

Anyways, for the last couple of days I've had a really hard time installing the front end back under the car. I have my axle, spring, and wishbone assembled and I'm using a floor jack under the front axle to raise it up inside. It keeps binding on something, I'll get the bolt hole perfect and then it will magically be off by 1/8". I've tried jacking up the rear of the wishbone too, installing it first, etc. I realize you're supposed to install the spring first but I'm running out of ideas. Does the spring fit super tight into the cross member? I was thinking too maybe my floor jack is causing it to bind since they move as they are jacked up.

After further investigation I notice when looking down at the top of the cross member when facing the front of the car, you can see the two sections in the middle where it curves in and then it's flat where the spring touches inside. These seem to be bent in more than usual. I don't know if it became warped from the welding or what. It almost looks as if they were hit with a hammer? The attached picture shows the location I'm talking about. I've tried prying it out with a screw driver and it moves but it just seems really tight. I'm afraid of possibly cracking the cross member again after all the repair work I just finished.

Any ideas?
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:46 AM   #2
Fordors
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Default Re: Front axle install

I would dress the side of the spring using a 24 or 36 grit disc on an angle grinder. Just sand where you think the interference is.
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:47 AM   #3
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: Front axle install

Are you using an original spring with beveled edges on the short top leaf?

I also grease the spring where it slides against the steel. This makes it fit into place much easier.
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:39 AM   #4
vermontboy
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Default Re: Front axle install

Would it be quicker to just take the spring off the assembly and install it first ?? It doesn't take that long and there is a lot less frustration factor.

If the cross member cracks when you pry on it with a screwdriver it would have cracked in use anyway.
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:53 AM   #5
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Front axle install

Hi Jeff,

This was always a very common Model A front axle install problem with a very simple solution.

Please try this:

1. If not beveled, get a grinder & grind a 45 degree flat area minimum 1/4" wide on your front spring's top leaf, (both fore & aft), where it actually "contacts" your front cross member.

2. Next, before trying to install your front axle connected to the chassis, completely assemble all of the front axle parts, like king pins, front spring shackles & spring etc.

3. Place the floor supported front axle assembly under chassis & allow the centered front cross member to come down & rest on the top of the front spring with the wishbone ball "not" yet installed.

4. Loosely install front spring clamping bolts with crank bearing, & with full weight of car resting on the assembled front axle which is supported on the floor, place & insert about a 5 foot long 2x4 with the bottom vertical end "behind" the front axle & with the 2x4 upper part vertically resting on the "front" of the front chassis cross member.

5. The wishbone ball usually needs to be positioned more forward by "pushing" on the top of the vertically held 2x4 to make the wishbone ball move forward; when pushing on the 2x4, the axle's wishbone's ball moves forward & the top of the spring remains fixed in the cross member.

6. Notice that your cross member is already bent inwards where the 2x4 will contact it because this was done before for a former front axle installation -- this is not your front cross member's first rodeo.

7. It helps to have a helper to assist; however, it can be accomplished single handed by first carefully tightened the bottom cap of the wishbone ball a little at a time, then push on the 2x4, then re-tighten, then push a little at a time to where the ball slowly "pops" in place a little at a time.

8. If this installation procedure breaks your cross member's welds, "great" -- best to break welds in a shop than have welds break while driving in heavy traffic over a tall river bridge crossing with your family members on board.

9. Actual experiences learned from "vintage" mechanics.

Please let us know what happens.

P.S.: Don't forget to tighten front spring clamping bolts "after" tightening wish bone cap -- also, Bratton's catalog has recommendations for the dimensions above the wishbone's bottom cap connection.

This installation procedure maintains & renders Ford's positive recommended caster.

Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 08-06-2014 at 09:31 AM. Reason: typo & addd P.S.
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:38 AM   #6
Jeff M
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Default Re: Front axle install

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Wow, thanks for the tips everyone it's greatly appreciated. It's been a pretty frustrating ordeal, I'm just ready to be done with this cross member.

I'm pretty sure my current spring is original (2" thick, tapered edges). It did have an aftermarket spring in it when I first pulled it with the square leaves and it sat up way too high. Also the previous owner had the wrong wishbone mount, he was using the stock ball in the rubber ball wishbone mount. I noticed when I first looked under the cracked cross member, the bolt seemed to shift and pound an indention right next to the tie bolt hole, it was a mess.

So after my repairs, I installed the original spring, however I did not bevel the top leaf as it seemed to be fine. It had no sharp edges or anything. Maybe I should do it anyways. I also made sure to install the correct wishbone mount, original style, from Snyders. The whole front end is completed assembled minus the drums and wheels.

I still think it's catching on the bottom edge of the cross member, I don't know. I did grease the top and sides of the spring also.
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:23 PM   #7
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Front axle install

Jeff,

Please relax & take one step at a time.

Just think ......... over 20 million Model As were made & each Model A possibly went in a shop or under a shade tree at least 25 times & successfully exited with repairs performed mostly by people without a high school education.

Your Model A repair could be just one out of over 500 million.

I could have miscounted & be off by at least a trillion or two Model A repairs; however, after such simple repairs, they can still successfully travel from point A to point B if you put gas in the tank. LOL

Please let us know about the next concern you encounter.
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:27 PM   #8
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Front axle install

Hi Jeff,

In your first very observant detailed statement,

"After further investigation I notice when looking down at the top of the cross member when facing the front of the car, you can see the two sections in the middle where it curves in and then it's flat where the spring touches inside. These seem to be bent in more than usual. I don't know if it became warped from the welding or what. It almost looks as if they were hit with a hammer?"

What could have happened is where the two front cross member sections are curved & beat up "inward", the "U" bolts clamping the front spring may have been loose years ago & were pounding from front to rear on the front of the cross member.

With a worn & loose rubber ball on the wishbone ball, the whole axle & wishbone could have been moving excessively from front to rear pounding like a hammer every time the driver hit a bump, railroad track, or pot hole.

It could even be possible that the front spring center lower plate was installed upside down making indentation matters even worse.

If the top of the spring will not clear these two (2) "lower" front cross bar indentations when the cross bar is lowered on the spring, I would not hesitate to carefully try wedging them open to clear the spring -- again, if the weld breaks, it broke in the shop & not on the highway.

How to wedge it open? Maybe try this:

1. Cut & fit a 3/4" bolt, preferably with fine threads, to fit snug between the front cross member tight spot indentation.
2. Thread a 3/4" nut on the bolt & reinstall the bolt at the indentation.
3. Unscrew the nut to slightly open & place pressure on the in-side of the indentation.
4. If it springs back a little and/or you run out of bolt/nut threads, add washer(s) under the bolt head.

There are so many ways to wedge something open; but hope this helps

Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 08-06-2014 at 02:29 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:56 PM   #9
Jeff M
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Default Re: Front axle install

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give it another go tomorrow and let you know what happens! You're absolutely right about the loose U-bolts, that has to be what happened.
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:49 PM   #10
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Front axle install

Hi Jeff,

Model A problem diagnosis is far more successful when someone is providing exact problem details as you did.

All to your credit, you gave explicit wonderful details. Have no doubt you'll get it done.

When you later report your successful Model A fix, (however bizarre or even how different it may be), you will become the professor, & we will become the students.
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Old 08-07-2014, 09:12 PM   #11
Jeff M
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Default Re: Front axle install

So I chamfered the edges of the top leaf and hit the sides of the spring with a 36 grit flap disc. Then I filed the rear portion of the tie bolt hole a tad further and it finally fit inside. The spring still seems like it needs to go a tad bit more though. When looking above at the top of the cross member, I noticed the spring was sitting flush against the drivers side crank bearing hole, but the passenger side crank bearing hole seemed to have a 1/16" or so gap between the cross member and the top of the spring.

Does this seem like an issue or will the weight of the car take care of it? I'm thinking it needs to go more. I was able to also jack up the rear of the wishbone and it fit inside the socket on the bell housing good. What exactly is the correct procedure to fix the front end permanently? Spring flush against the cross member, wishbone socket mount tightened, then the U-bolts and pad tightened?
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:39 AM   #12
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Front axle install

As always, it is difficult to actually "see" what you are experiencing on your end.

Appears in you last reply #11 questions, you are explaining what has to be done; however, I would try what you are questioning, i.e.:

1. Allow the full weight of the car to compress the spring.

2. Insert wishbone ball, & correctly tighten the cap on same.

3. Make sure the square head of top of the spring's center clamping bolt fits neatly & all the way "inside" the square hole of cross member.

4. Uniformly tighten the left & right front spring "U" bolts, so the front spring is pulled against the cross member evenly. This clamping action should insure that a uniform tight fit does occur.

5. Then after tightening "everything", inspect how it fits, mainly because this is how this assembly will remain when driving.

Please let us know what you see after completing this final installation.

Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 08-08-2014 at 09:41 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-14-2014, 03:27 PM   #13
Jeff M
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Default Re: Front axle install

I still can't get the bolt to fully seat in the hole. Not sure what is wrong, is the spring retaining pad supposed to sit flush on the crossmember before tightening? I assume you don't use it to pull the spring in.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:27 PM   #14
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Front axle install

Hi Jeff,

[QUOTE: I still can't get the bolt to fully seat in the hole. Not sure what is wrong, is the spring retaining pad supposed to sit flush on the cross member before tightening? I assume you don't use it to pull the spring in.[/QUOTE].

Again, difficult to see what you have from far away.

1. The front spring's square center bolt should be tightened drawing the spring leaves tightly together prior to installing the spring in the front cross member.

2. The front spring's square center bolt head should fit all the way into the square cross member's square hole after tightening the front spring center lower plate with the two (2) front spring "U" bolts. Yes, you do use the front spring center lower plate to pull the spring in & upwards into the cross member.

2. The front spring center lower plate should not fit flush with the bottom of the cross member before tightening the two (2) "U" bolts -- if it does fit flush with the bottom of the cross member before tightening the two (2) "U" bolts, the spring cannot be compressed & pulled upwards to contact the cross member, "and" the spring's square center bolt head will not go all the way into the square hole.

3. Is it possible you do not have all ten (10) leaves on your front spring, whereby your front spring is not thick enough at the center bolt?

Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 08-14-2014 at 10:44 PM. Reason: typo
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