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Old 05-01-2018, 06:34 AM   #1
cw253748
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Default Head studs

Good article in the newest “The Restorer” magazine about head gaskets. The author writes about the head studs should be bottomed out and then loosened 1 turn. I always have snugged up any studs I have put in. What are your guys thoughts?
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Old 05-01-2018, 06:49 AM   #2
George Miller
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Default Re: Head studs

That is right, if they are bottom out it can cock the stud to one side. That will make the head harder to get on and off. Some think they will hold more if they are bottomed out but they won't.
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:22 AM   #3
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Default Re: Head studs

I found out when I bottomed out the head studs some of the studs wound up below the head nuts after they were torqued down.
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Old 05-01-2018, 10:59 AM   #4
Jim Brierley
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Default Re: Head studs

I recommend screwing them in snug, then backing them off 1/4 turn, this lets them align themselves but still gives maximum thread contact. Always use anti-seize on the threads in the block and lube the upper threads. Dry nuts are good hygiene but not so good for fasteners.
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:48 PM   #5
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Default Re: Head studs

Quote:
Originally Posted by cw253748 View Post
Good article in the newest “The Restorer” magazine about head gaskets. The author writes about the head studs should be bottomed out and then loosened 1 turn. I always have snugged up any studs I have put in. What are your guys thoughts?


Everyone seems to have their preferred method for doing specific tasks, including stud install. My question to you when reading of this stud install method is...how does this method work when the bottom of the stud hole has been opened up (busted thru to water as some are with most blocks I've seen/used) ?


I would think that 'backing off one full thread' method would facilitate more of a water leak on a stud where casting goes thru to water ?
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Old 05-01-2018, 04:02 PM   #6
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Some guys prefer head bolts to nuts/studs.
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Old 05-01-2018, 05:42 PM   #7
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Default Re: Head studs

Does anyone sell head bolts for a model a. Yes, I know ARP prob has a set that will work...... But I mean a "A" supplier? I've never seen an A with bolts.
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Old 05-02-2018, 07:13 AM   #8
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As far as I know the guys with bolts made their own kits and they are not from the hardware store. Caterpillar tractor used to sell some of the best heat treated bolts on the market.
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Old 05-02-2018, 09:20 AM   #9
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Default Re: Head studs

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Does anyone sell head bolts for a model a. Yes, I know ARP prob has a set that will work...... But I mean a "A" supplier? I've never seen an A with bolts.
I've heard of guys using the bolts from the later (49 & up) flathead V-8s. You'd have to verify the length.

I once had a problem w/the bolts on a 300 CI Ford 6 cylinder stretching, so I replaced them w grade 8 bolts w/washers, (from a bolt store). No more head gasket problems w/that engine.
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Old 05-02-2018, 11:39 AM   #10
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Default Re: Head studs

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Old 05-02-2018, 12:43 PM   #11
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Default Re: Head studs

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Originally Posted by Mark DeRoseau View Post
Does anyone sell head bolts for a model a. Yes, I know ARP prob has a set that will work...... But I mean a "A" supplier? I've never seen an A with bolts.


Hey Mark,
ARP is a source that I've known guys to use for such bolt use in A/B engines.


This might be a 'fine' point to consider, but in my mind an important one.
Seems to be that Fords' engineering / studs/nuts use, was focused on the TORQUE being spread between the threads of the stud in block, but mostly on the threads on the nut end of stud.
Seems that use of bolts would place entire focus of torque on the threads in block. I'd like to see results of how many block threads are pulled/stripped by bolt use vs stud use.


Else why wouldn't Ford have just use 'simpler' bolt system, instead of stud/nut system ?
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Old 05-02-2018, 04:07 PM   #12
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Default Re: Head studs

Having discovered that standard head studs were too short for my high compression head, I had to get a set of high tensile studs made locally. Unfortunately only metric size stock is available, so the studs had to be completely machined from a slightly larger size.
Interestingly, these fitted more accurately than those supplied and all were perfectly perpendicular when installed making fitting of the head very simple. I can't recall whether they bottomed out or not, but I suspect they did.
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Old 05-03-2018, 07:02 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by hardtimes View Post
Hey Mark,
ARP is a source that I've known guys to use for such bolt use in A/B engines.


This might be a 'fine' point to consider, but in my mind an important one.
Seems to be that Fords' engineering / studs/nuts use, was focused on the TORQUE being spread between the threads of the stud in block, but mostly on the threads on the nut end of stud.
Seems that use of bolts would place entire focus of torque on the threads in block. I'd like to see results of how many block threads are pulled/stripped by bolt use vs stud use.


Else why wouldn't Ford have just use 'simpler' bolt system, instead of stud/nut system ?
Ditto; No sense trying to reinvent the Model A; Henry had a reason for designing and manufacturing the nut/stud system/
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