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Old 12-04-2012, 05:01 PM   #21
wrndln
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Default Re: Cutting oil

Now, Tom be nice.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:03 PM   #22
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Default Re: Cutting oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete View Post
"LPS Tapmatic is a brand that works well too and is American. Tapmatic Tricut liquid is good for stainless steels as well as hard steels and contains sulphurised and chlorinated compounds."
Quote by SAJ.

Tapmatic and Tap Magic have as one of the base ingredients tricholoroethane.
It is an extremely fast evaporating compound and works by refrigeration, cooling the point of impact of the die or tap so it doesn't gall.
One of the sales demonstrations of the stuff is to run a DRY tap into a piece of steel till it can't be moved without breaking, pour a couple drops of the stuff on and then run the tap to the bottom with minimal pressure on the wrench.
They also make a version just for non ferrous metals.
That is the best stuff>
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:33 PM   #23
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Default Re: Cutting oil

Learned 2 things today from this thread alone. Such a wealth of information, So do some people really use a cutting oil on a hacksaw? Or is that only for the big industrial hacksaws that have a motor driving them?
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:58 AM   #24
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Default Re: Cutting oil

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Originally Posted by dumb person View Post
Learned 2 things today from this thread alone. Such a wealth of information, So do some people really use a cutting oil on a hacksaw? Or is that only for the big industrial hacksaws that have a motor driving them?
I always use Trefolex on a hand hacksaw on steels, or lard for aluminium. I also run new blade teeth in on brass or aluminium before using on harder metals like steel. The blades retain their sharpness much better this way, plus the cutting action is much smoother and blades never pick-up or break.
For small power hacksaw or bandsaw blades I flood with soluble oil, usually sprayed on by hand from a squirt bottle. For the more serious stuff (say 4 inch billet steel etc,) we have a suds pump and recycling sump, using a soluble oil/water mix at 15 or 20% and big bi-metal blades that cost a lot of money. This is on a fairly big saw that takes 3 and 4 inch wide blades 30 inches or so long.
We have a crescent brand bandsaw made in 1898 with 2 huge wheels about 3 feet in diameter carrying the blade. There are not and never were any guards on it whatsoever. Great fun to use and surprisingly useful on some jobs. We run it fairly slowly for safety though.
A lot of our larger workshop machinery is collected for fun as well as function. We use a squirt bottle of soluble oil on this Crescent blade too, which is about 13 feet long from memory.
SAJ in NZ

Last edited by SAJ; 12-05-2012 at 03:46 PM. Reason: typing 20 instead of 13
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:56 AM   #25
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Default Re: Cutting oil

I learned something too, I never knew about the HSS sets. I have the cheap stuff and from reading this thread explains a lot of the troubles I've had even using cutting oil. Looks like I get to wish for something from Santa this Christmas.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:22 PM   #26
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Default Re: Cutting oil

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gweilbaker View Post
I learned something too, I never knew about the HSS sets. I have the cheap stuff and from reading this thread explains a lot of the troubles I've had even using cutting oil. Looks like I get to wish for something from Santa this Christmas.
Don't even buy cheapo made-in-China carbon steel tap sets! The tolerances are poor, and the cutting edges can have burrs and irregularities that can mess up the thread shape.

BTW, don't they make special thread-chasing taps that try to push the metal back to where it belongs, instead of cutting it away?

Doug
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