A Engine, B Carburetor, B Distributor, 3:27

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW would like to share this recent information just in case anyone is interested in results of only one (1) actual Model A experiment with a partially modified Model A with a partially Modified Model A engine.

1. But first, would like to mention the very kind assistance, technical advice, & cautious tips, from Mr. Marco & Mr. Ron Cloat, (Rainmaker Ron), for providing very technical information on how to select a 1930 Model A Town Sedan with a very sound & solid wood frame that would not need repair or restoration -- after owning a 1930 Coupe for over 55 years with sheet metal frame, had never seen a Model A with a wood frame.

2. Anyway, had the original Model A crankshaft counter-weighted & balanced with an accompanying reduced weighted flywheel by Mr. Ron Kelley; & provided a new I.B. 30 --.330 camshaft from Mr. Bill Stipe, both of which were accompanied with an original Model A "Police Head" marked B which came with the car. Installed an aluminum timing gear from Mr. Dan McEachern which proved to be noiseless because a new McEachern crankshaft gear was installed by Mr. Ron Kelley. Totally rewired entire car. Provided porting to smooth out sharp intake & exhaust corners in Model A engine block & Model A intake manifold -- did not bore out Model A intake manifold -- yet.

3. Installed an original 1932 Model B carburetor with all original jets, with a Hi-Boy 6" tall K&N air filter, with "no" tube connecting the fuel bowl to the carburetor air intake, & an original Model B centrifugal advanced distributor with original Model B points accompanied by an original pop-out switch restored by Mr. Crabtree -- made a special Model A ignition switch connection to be able to install the Model A distributor in about 2 minutes -- spare, rebuilt original Model A distributor & spare, rebuilt original Model A Zenith carburetor kept in rear metal trunk for converting to more original parts if so desired or if needed. Spark plugs are new 3-X's with original spark plug connectors. With a new E-bay Model A timing device mounted on the Model A timing cover, with timing marks over the crankshaft pulley, with timing pin inserted, verified no. 1 piston TDC & made recessed mark on crankshaft pulley. With Model B distributor installed, set timing with timing mark corresponding to timing device's 9-1/2 degrees BTDC -- verified with timing light -- right on -- 9.5 x 2 = 19 degrees BTDC recommended by Ford for Model B distributors. Cleaned gas tank by continuously pumping POR 15 Marine Clean through it with a filter on one end; then installed cylindrical screen at fuel shut off inside tank, & installed Napa round pleated paper fuel filter inside fuel sediment bowl.

4. Provided partially restored original Model A engine with new stainless steel valves, new valve guides, new pistons with new rings after only honing cylinders with kerosene & honing stones mounted on a hand-crank drill -- before this, engine used no oil, no smoking, & plugs were not fouled; however, former owners had used non-detergent oil which created nothing but an internal sludge mess mostly in the valve chamber & oil pan & dirty sticking piston ring grooves. Prepared & painted entire undercarriage, chassis, engine, transmission, differential, axles, springs, underside of fenders, firewall, underside of floor pans, with POR products per recommended instructions.

5. Re-adjusted all Babbitt bearings, one at a time, with the old time method prior to the invention of Plastigage; i.e., remove excess oil from journal & Babbitt & add or remove shims until absolutely "no" up & down movement felt; however, movement side to side must be achieved with very little force when moved by hand -- later checked all bearings with Plastigage just to experiment with Plastigage & found all bearings to be right on.

6. Restored transmission, drive shaft, & differential with all new Timken bearings, & installed a new 3:27 ring & pinion gear per Mr. Tom Endy's instructions. A 3:27 in this Town Sedan works fine even in third gear while climbing hills because it is actually "not" that much heavier than my 1930 Coupe maybe about 200 pounds or so; rebuilt water pump, starter, generator, etc. etc. Provided all new mechanical brake parts with new cast iron hubs from Mr. Mel Gros. All new & used Model A parts came from the often mentioned Bert's, Bratton, Mac's, & Snyder's with absolutely no problems. Original speedometer came back to life by "Papanick" in New York.

7. After about 113 miles of short trips during restoration, wife & I traveled about 168 mile last Sunday on back roads in stop & go traffic & minor hills, but some steep. Came back at night in rain, with original headlights with silver reflectors & original bulbs & did not have to use the aftermarket electric windshield wiper because we had one coat of Rain-X on exterior of windshield, & Rain-X non=fog on interior.

8. With original radiator cleaned with POR 15 Marine Clean, flushed & back-flushed, engine temperature never exceeded 170 degrees even at 50 mph. Air filter remained clean, no smoke, no fouled plugs, used no oil -- 5W40 oil.

9. On this stop & go trip, partial hills, with about 42 degrees outside temperature with rain & 18 mph wind, we traveled an average of 45 mph & achieved 21.2 miles per gallon, (2 people in car), on a partially restored engine which now has only about 281 miles on it & is still getting broken in.

Just hope this may help someone to hear what may or may not work on a particular Model A mechanical & electrical restoration.

[Patrick L.]

Nice post. Good reading, especially about the 3:27s.

[Tiny]

Nice break down. Is the old time method mentioned in 5 the foil trick? I've heard it's very accurate.
This is a great post
Thank you

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Tiny,

My ancestors poured & adjusted Babbitt as early as the 1820's on their steamboats on the Mississippi River & Amite River going to Mobile, Alabama using this same method -- no foil, no Plastigage, -- bearings set with no up & down movement, & with side movement that can be easily forced side to side by hand -- have a copy of one of their steam engine manuals printed later in Paris in 1848 in French with the title, "Machine A Vapeur", i.e. "Steam Engines", when they operated the Steamers "Paragon" & the "Teche", up until about 1860 -- both built in Columbus, Ohio.

I also remember the 8 foot diameter flywheels on vintage steam engines in sugar mills when I was a kid -- witnessed Babbitt poured & adjusted in this same exact manner -- i.e., by "feel" -- oil was provided externally to steam engine rods & mains by an oiler, a guy who went around & filled the individual external oil cups made out of glass so one could see how much oil was in each cup.

Same adjustment method was used for the later Babbitt bearings used in internal combustion engines.

Try it -- very quick way -- then if in doubt, verify with Plastigage is so desired.

[Jim Huseby]

'Good info. What size tires are you running and what is your maximum advance at what RPM?

[H. L. Chauvin]

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Hi Jim,

Have 19" Canadian Goodyear tires about 30 years old or so according to former owner.

He reported they only had about 200 miles on them when I bought it -- looks about right -- tires look new -- he said the car was kept in different car collections in enclosed garages for 30 years before I bought it -- appears UV rays did not perform their normal attack on these tires.

Wrote B timing advance down somewhere, but appears this Model B distributor got up to about 25 -26 degrees BTDC at about 2,400 - 2,500 RPM which appeared about correct.

After engine is sitting for about an hour after running a short time, engine starts every time on 1/4 revolution.

Engine starts every time on the second complete revolution with choked pulled out when engine is cold & GAV 3/4's open.

Completely close GAV after engine is warm where initial pickup is fine with no hesitation.

With a slightly modified Model A engine with a Model A "B" marked higher compression head & close to a "B" type lift cam, with a "B" distributor & "B" carburetor, the sound & performance of the engine pickup from stop to about 45 -50 works well as the spark automatically advances steadily with the steadily increasing engine RPM's -- noticed this years ago between an A & B distributors while drag racing -- that is, when I could hear.

[Jim Huseby]

Thanks again for great info. I hope you can (if you want to) tell about your drag racing without getting into too much trouble here!

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Jim,

In 1959, with a $25.00 1930 Coupe, with a newly installed Model B engine with Model B carb, & a Model B distributor, with rumble seat & rumble lid removed, we had to get (2) guys to sit on rear cross rail for added weight to get enough traction with incorrect 1929 21" rear wheels spinning on an asphalt highway -- enough tire smoke was generated to make the car look like it was on fire -- beat a standard 1956 Ford V-8 & a standard 1954 Chevrolet pickup one day.

Not as bad as the cold winter night we went to the movies with a kerosene lantern hanging on the rear because the Model A tail lights would not work -- was my Dad's idea --he said no one in their right mind would ram us from the rear with a lit kerosene lantern.

Former owner had installed had two (2) roll up RC Cola sheet metal signs to replace the broken glass in both Coupe doors -- had to roll down the two RC Cola signs to see what was coming at every intersection -- sheet metal windows made car rather private at Drive-Ins Theaters.

Other experiences pulling boat trailers & launching boats on mud banks with Model A rear tire chains installed.

Had 1" x 12" cypress planks mounted on tops of both rotted out sheet metal running boards -- toggle switch replaced pop-out switch -- not a hobby show car -- was main & only means of transportation.

Better stop here .................

[H. L. Chauvin]

Every now & then we experience Forum remarks & photos on what appears to be former strange looking, rural "Farmer Fixes" to some of our collected Depression Era Model A's.

What appears never to be mentioned is how our very proud ancestors back then did not appear to be shy to express their state of poverty.

I noticed just a bit of this past rural poverty a few times as a kid; but thinking back today, it really makes one wonder how much our rural ancestors were a little different.

One minor event I remember was a guy I saw going to church in his car one cold Sunday morning with his wife & about 6 kids, waving to everyone as they passed by.

Poor guy's car was going backwards.

His vintage car's rear end was lifted -- his oldest son was pulling the rest of the family to church with the family wrecker truck.

Another event my Dad mentioned was in about 1914, a father's buckboard wheel broke.

Coming from about 10 miles away. this poor gentleman parked right in front of church.

He brought his wife & 10 kids to church in his river skiff pulled with trace chains by his large pair of mules.

Thankfully, our Model A's have much different owners today. I'm sure many others could relate similar past events.

Sometimes it may be a good idea to respect, reflect & be thankful today for not having to experience some of the things in life that our ancestors witnessed with their Model A's & other vintage wheeled vehicles.